/ UKC Fit Club Week 377

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mattrm - on 08 Jun 2014
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with (or without) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles are linked here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

The following training article by Alex Barrows has recently been brought up http://alexbarrowsclimbing.blogspot.com.es/2014/02/training-for-sport-climbing.html It contains information about the four main "energy systems" and how to train each one specifically.

Psyche video of the week - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McHosr_98r0 - Sonnie Trotter on Cobra Crack - Suggestions welcome

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week's activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity

Link to last week's thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=588587

Curious Yellow - Doesn't sound like backwards progress to me. You'll never climb well when you're tired. It'll come good I'm sure.
Ali - Hope you're feeling better now.
stevemarkperry - Well done on the race. 6th, congrats.
tubb93 - Over the illness yet? Hope you're better.
Exile - Afan? That's my local patch. Not been up there for a while tho. It's a nice place tho. Good training week.
hms - Yes! 7a! Well done. Glad the exam angst is done.
JimmyKay - I love to hear the wafflings. Keep them up. Sounds silly, but what about silent feet drills? Or is it just the shoes? Don't know what it's like at the rareified 8a air ;)
Nick Russell - I'll give you a report, don't worry. Pleasure Dome!!! Amazing! Such a classic route. And an E4 solo? Mental. Going well there chap.
Joughton - Forgiven. Keep up the fitness, so when the exams are done you can hit it.
mbh - Nearly 70 miles! Well done mate. Good effort.
IainRUK - Congrats on the 10th place. Great to hold on to it like that. Dead impressed.
Dandan82 - Hope the garden is nearly done. Glad the psyche is coming back.
Alun - Lots of riding there. Good training for the ride.
Tyler - Has ashes been downgraded yet? ;)
Ally Smith - Lots of big number E grade top ropes.
biscuit - Lots of riding. Comedy? Noice. Post the weight numbers.
Humperdink - Wow. That's fast. Stupid fast. Well done.
Jamming Dodger - Lots of riding and yoga.
Just Tintin - Stump long gone. Good luck with the SPA stuffs.
Sankey - Lots of munroing there.
Kevster - Glad you enjoyed Spain. Well done on Fiesta. That's an amazing route. Congrats.
Paul Baxter - Lots of walking and stuffs.
mrchewey - Fair enough re climbing. Cornwall sounds nice.
leon - I know how you feel there.
Luke Owens - House moved now? Lots of impressive hanging stuff there.

Hope everyone is enjoying the stats. Lots of excellent running, climbing and yoga ing getting done. Weather has been quite nice recently, so hope you're all out having fun. Really enjoying doing the stats and it's great to see you all doing so well.

Joughton on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm: Cheers Matt

Thought I'd start as I've only had a little week.

Monday - General Studies exam - pointless pointlessness. Went to MCC after, to finish off some of the problems from last week. Quite pleased, flashed another of the V6-8 circuit and managed the V8+ from last week. Obviously it's going to be a bit soft but it was very knacky. Also flashed a few more of the V4-5 and V5-6 circuits but a few more are still eluding me.

Tue - Fri - lots of revision, in Central Library in town everyday.

Sat - quick session at home. Warmed up then did the usual pull-up press-up routine. Can manage a 90deg lock of pretty steadily now. Set some big jugs on the steep wall to practise doing really controlled campusing, combining it with core by keeping my legs at right angles to my body. Good exercise. Finished off with some core and antagonistics. Not feeling the burn yet which is worrying because that normally means it will really hurt later.

Sun - nice chilled day to prepare for five exams this week :'(

So it's unlikely I'll be posting for the next two weeks, though after that I'll be training like mad for three months!

Cheers, Jake
mrchewy - on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:
Sorry if that was a bit of a grumpy reply last week when you asked about foot on campusing v climbing - borne out of frustration at my own body more than anything else. I really shouldn't complain.

Mon - Torbryan Quarry. Wasn't looking forward to this but it was raining. Loved it! I'll go back for sure. Played on Mayday 6c and Boogie on Down 6c.

Tue - Haytor. Had a nightmare. Couldn't distinguish the footholds on the rock, definite eye issue. Like looking at painted glass. First time it's happened. Tried to lead some E1 slab thing but it was too risky. Seconded a horrid offwidth and then the E1. Fell 7/8 times on the lower slab! Just no shadowing - need to go see the eye specialist.

Fri - Boulder room. Alex has made the grades even harder than normal. Managed to flash V2 but couldn't get near some of them. V3 was miles away unless steep. People who've been flashing V5 of late were not getting V3 till after a few goes. How it should be, I actually think they're pretty fair.

Sat - Working. Squats, pressups, kettlebells etc.

Sun - Working. Off to the wall now for a boulder and some training.

Really liked Torbryan. Didn't do very well but feel like I learnt a lot. Took a fair whipper after almost making the runout 4th bolt, that was actually good for the head I guess. Funky holds that varied meant I didn't come away hurting at all - that makes a change. Boogie on Down will go down at some point in my life, it's a shame it's so far away. Head back down after the trip I guess.
Post edited at 14:02
Nick Russell on 08 Jun 2014
In reply to mattrm:
> Nick Russell - I'll give you a report, don't worry. Pleasure Dome!!! Amazing! Such a classic route. And an E4 solo? Mental. Going well there chap.

Thanks for the stats Matt, a good summary of everyone, as ever. Pleasure Dome really is good, glad I got on it (plan A was actually Bloody Sunday in the leap, but it was seeping). And yeah, I'm feeling good at the moment, if a little close to overdoing it at times...

M - Swimming (1.9km). Despite the short distance, this was absolutely brutal. The main set was 10 x {50m freestyle max, 10 press-ups} @ 2:00. My first 50 came in on 30.2, then the next two managed sub-32, then crashed to around 34-35s
T - Rest
W - Swimming (2.2km). Not as bad as Monday, but still hard. Too much fly for my liking.
T - 8km run, core
F - Ban-y-Gor with hms. A couple more goes at Almost Me, and I have done all the moves now, plus a few short links
S - UCR. Flashed a 7a, shut down by a 7a+. I've realised that I need to start getting on harder stuff indoors, the 7a+ was a vague attempt in that direction.
S - 14km run, core

Not much climbing but solid cardio/core week. Feel cheated by the weather forecast. After predicting torrential rain on Saturday and heavy showers today, we've had a glorious weekend. A bit of rain Saturday morning cleared up by midday, and the showers have only just moved in today. A planned session at Ban-y-Gor on Tuesday was called off by a meeting ("Nick, I need you in this important meeting, like, now").

2014 goals
Sport: 8a. Best RP: 7b+
Trad: Some more E4s including solid-at-the-grade onsight(s). Attempted: 4, clean onsight: 1 (+1 highball/solo GU; +1 solo HP)
Trad: Staffs NIAD
Running: Don't get injured, more mileage than last year. 206/416km down.
Swimming: Enter some competitions, get some 'benchmark' times. 58.69 100fr*, 26.98 (26.3*) 50 fr, 1:12.34 100 bk, 31.12 50 fly*, 1:09.58 100 IM
*Relay splits

Short-term goals
  • Get some sport mileage in 7b-7c range.
    Current 7c project: Almost Me. Know all the moves now. Excited to get back and link them!
  • 2 core sessions per week
    Tick for this week, it's getting easier. Keep it up
  • Plan/train for trips in September/October: 1 week in Lundy, 2 weeks in US East Coast.
    Full balance paid on Lundy, flights to the US are booked!
  • Nick Russell on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mrchewy:
    > Boogie on Down will go down at some point in my life, it's a shame it's so far away. Head back down after the trip I guess.

    Have you redpointed routes before? Your profile says you've onsighted 6b, which should put 6c comfortably in your redpoint range. It's amazing how hard it can feel the first time you try it, yet still go down really quickly. I've started a session on a route saying "I'll have to be much fitter before that will go!" and then ticked it an hour later.
    Nick Russell on 08 Jun 2014
    Anybody on here got any advice on working steep routes?

    I was discussing this at Ban-y-Gor with hms because Almost Me is about 45 deg overhanging for a large section and I find myself expending so much energy (e.g.) just pulling back on after a fall. Even getting off the rope and onto the rock again when I want to have another go at something seems to require a couple of moves worth of energy... Am I missing some tricks or is it just hard work?
    mbh - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Hey thanks Matt!

    M - nothing.
    T - 8.3 miles loop inc. coast path Perranporth to Trevellas
    W - 8.6 miles loop inc. coast path west out of Portreath.
    T - 8.0 miles there-and-back coast path past Porthtowan - saw loads of orchids.
    F - 8.0 miles there-and-back coast path around St Agnes Head. I normally make this a 10 miles route, but my will power collapsed at the 4 miles point and I turned back.
    S - 10.8 miles road loop from my front door
    S - 10.8 miles road loop from Blisland on fringes of Bodmin Moor.

    54.6 m/88 km and 6508 ft/1980 m ascent, including lots of off-road running along the coast path, some of it quite hilly.

    Not very fast, but still getting the miles in. That is 9 of the last 12 that have been 50+.
    Nick Russell on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mbh:
    > F - 8.0 miles there-and-back coast path around St Agnes Head.

    I'm always jealous of the places you get to run day-to-day. There's some pleasant paths around Bristol (tow path, Ashton Court...) but nothing quite as wild and beautiful as that North Cornwall coast path. Nice work keeping up the mileage.
    mrchewy - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Redpointed? Nope. Nothing like that to be honest. I've spent all day on the warm-up routes at crags far too hard for, usually on a top rope and I view it as bouldering on a rope to be honest. Torbryan, I actually put my own draws in on lead.
    Not too sure that 6c should be comfortable for me, I've onsighted the last three 6a routes I've done but only tried 6b twice - onsighting one and almost the other. I rarely do sport indoors but have never managed a 6b clean at Pinnacle even after working the hell out of one, I'm just too weak for indoors.

    Aye, redpointing is a big gap in my game but the nearest rock to me is almost a couple of hours away - getting stuck into a polished limestone project in Horseshoe Quarry when there's so much other stuff to try and onsight sort of confuses me!

    Cheers for the comment tho Nick, I had a chuckle at the "I'll have to be much fitter before that will go!" I've said it loads but rarely get back on routes...
    mbh - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    No doubt, they are wild and beautiful, and I am consciously making myself go to them. The views are spectacular, and compared to the other options around here, for off-road running the coast path offers more ascent, fewer route finding problems and less likelihood of getting bogged down in mud, nettles or a vast field of head-height something or other. It also makes up for all those winter routes I did around housing and industrial estates.
    hms - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mrchewy:

    Mayday is a funny route. There is a v hard crux fairly low down (bolt 3 perhaps) then a pretty much complete rest, then a glorious easy jug-haul to the top. Well worth working the tricky crux, then giving the whole route a blast.
    hms - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    which 7a & 7a+? The new purpley pink 7a by the pulpit at UCR is good value - I came close to flashing it but messed up where to get the final clip in from.
    Nick Russell on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mrchewy:
    > Aye, redpointing is a big gap in my game... getting stuck into a polished limestone project in Horseshoe Quarry when there's so much other stuff to try and onsight sort of confuses me!

    I haven't been to Horseshoe, but I've read about it... understandable position. I've only got into the redpoint game in the last year or so, so I'm still enthusing about it to anybody who stops long enough to listen to me!
    Nick Russell on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to hms:

    The 7a was the yellow one with volumes low down, on the right of the archway to the toproping room. It says "techerz" on the label" I was thinking about having a go at that pink one you mention... maybe next time.

    The 7a+ was the one up the big overhanging prow on the left as you walk in, can't remember the colour. As usual, my main problem was working out where to clip from. I think I found a decent position for about half of the bolts!
    Tubb93 - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks mattrm

    STG (by end of september)
    Boulder v6 in font (September)
    Train as much as possible over summer

    MTG (end of '14)
    Climb more trad
    Boulder v7
    Onsight 7a redpoint 7b

    Lead 8a
    Boulder v9

    This week:
    M- Long drive to the lakes, got a brief boulder in at langdale not much done.
    T- Bowderstone other than one v4 i got absolutely spanked
    W- Wet day so had a decent boulder session at Kendal wall got a few V4s
    T- Went to langdale again got the pocket (V5) without too much trouble which was cool and got a couple of other V3s
    F- St bees. Absolutely awesome place unfortunately was pretty tired out and it was very hot so only got a few v3s but cant wait to get back!
    S- Drive home
    S- Much needed rest day!!

    Brilliant week away. Pretty pleased with the V5. Now time to get down to training over summer.
    leon on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    MTG (June): Classic E2 tick.
    LTG(2014): Star Wars & Pleasure Dome.
    VLTG(2015?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

    Mon: Nothing.
    Tue: Core. Weights. Push-ups & Pull-ups.
    Wed: Bouldering @ Hobson Moor Quarry
    Thu: Arc(30 mins). 4x4(V3,V3,V3,V3). Repeaters.
    Fri: Nothing.
    Sat: Nothing.
    Sun: Nothing.

    Sisters wedding took up 3 days so not much done this week.

    I'm in North Wales next week. As usual the weather looks rainy.
    hms - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks Matt. The exam angst isn't quite over yet - a couple more weeks, but less exams and shorter ones. Will be very glad when it's finally done with. At which point the other daughter will be starting her first set of Uni exams, but at least that is at a distance from me so I can pretend it isn't happening!

    Not my most active week ever. Was feeling a bit low on energy, plus I'm trapping a nerve in my right arm somewhere so am getting a numb patch on my hand which s getting annoying. Trying stridey walks with much exaggerated arm swinging to see if I can free whatever it is up.

    m cycle commute
    t ByG fell through cos of Nick's 'you WILL attend' meeting. Went to TCA and had a better go at their accumulator comp problems. Got 3 more, inc a dyno (much practise was needed) so quiet pleased
    w had wanted to do bulk routes, but husband decided he'd rather go to Bloc. Tried the new circuits - once again the 7a is a doddle, good but really over-graded. Did ~8 circuits (inc 7a x 3) plus some bouldering. Did my first yellow (V4-6?) which included a real swimming-pool topout.
    f ByG. Nice 6c route 2nd go, then on to 7b+ which went appallingly. 1 move in particular is closing me down - just can't get it. Then was feeling generally spooked & totally out of power. Could do the other moves, but just faded when I tried to put them together. And the clipping positions are totally eluding me. It was v hot & sunny which I think was the killer blow - don't think I'll try again until there is a cooler/cloudy day for it.
    s sulked
    s New Quarry with husband. As he can't climb v hard and won't lead, slightly more stuck to the trad stuff as he can get up a run-out E2 on second without too much 'taking'. Did an E3 too which was rather good. Not a vast volume but pleased to get anything cos an hour after we left there was monsoon level rain.
    hms - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    I've wondered about trying that yellow one but haven't seen anyone else on it and have zero clue how to do the first section up the twin aretes. Think the 7a+ might be orange spotty. Same line and same setter as a bright yellow 6c+ where I've been regularly falling off the top clips-worth, so I haven't felt too keen to try something similar but 2 grades harder! There is a superb red 7a in the groove just to the left of it, btw - well worth a go.
    biscuit - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Cheers Matt.

    I reckon you're right, i need to post the weight numbers.

    Weight itself is not the issue at a steady 70kg.

    Body fat however has averaged at pretty much bang on 17% this week. Although the scales have added on 1% for no good reason every year since i turned 35 ( so that's 4% added on now ! ) i know i am carrying too much.

    Got a holiday coming up from Wed to Sun in Ireland cycling this week so as long as i can stay off the guinness i should lose some.

    My target is going to be 12% and see how i feel when i get there.I am tempted to try ER's (patented pending )curry and magnum diet but i don't think i have his metabolism ;-)

    This week has been mainly work and then a weekend with the kids so not much done.

    1 routes session at work. First time in about 5 weeks leading on plastic and it felt awful. It was hot and greasy on brand new holds but they're just excuses really. I was very static, hesitant and ran out of steam very quickly. 9 routes done ( supposed to be 12 ) from 6a+ to 6c+ including 2 7a attempts. One of those needed 4 rests

    Back to Kilnsey on Friday and had a good session on 50 for 5. Got some new beta for 2 sections which should leave more in the tank for those desperate last moves. The 7a+ section to the break is not an issue now. But the end is the living end ! Changed my beta to go left hand first instead of right and it worked so sticking with that now.

    I may be able to get a quick visit to Kilnsey on Wed. Failing that it'll be a session before work tomorrow and same again wed or possibly CyL if weather is nice. Long time since i've been there.

    Then off to Ireland for cycling
    mattrm - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mrchewy:

    > Sorry if that was a bit of a grumpy reply last week when you asked about foot on campusing v climbing - borne out of frustration at my own body more than anything else. I really shouldn't complain.

    Didn't sound grumpy to me. No harm done. I was just wondering, makes sense. Should have realised, as I know that you've got seriously wonky knees.
    mattrm - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    STG - Climb 6c (or V4) @ wall , 11st 7lbs
    Aspirational - Climb E5/6 (London Wall), Scottish Winter V (Point 5, Zero, Minus etc), WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st.

    Weight - 11st 10lbs (1 lbs gain)

    M - Recover from the weekend's garden work
    T - Climbing at Trebanog
    W - Rest
    T - Fingerboarding
    F - 3 hours digging trench and root removal
    S - Retaining wall building
    S - Breaking up the path and bagging the rubble

    The final wall is finished! So that's the bulk of the work done in the garden. So hopefully I'll be out climbing more over the next few weeks.

    I'm up in Stoke on Trent next week, so I'm hoping to climb grit for the first time. Probably at the Roaches. But I'm tempted to drive over to Curbar. Not sure.

    Also in shocking news whilst we were having a conversation the wife said the following words - "If I can't see the climbing wall while it's down, you can have one". So I've got to be able to take it down. Which shouldn't be too hard. It'll really be a system board, but it's better than nowt.
    mrchewy - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:
    Roaches - not Curbar. A much nicer place to be. For grit anyway.
    Post edited at 22:52
    mrchewy - on 08 Jun 2014
    In reply to hms:

    2nd bolt is fine and then it's the next move really - hit the pocket a couple of times but couldn't see me ever holding it. Hence everyone saying to do the other Boogie on Down. Was sent up the Bam Bam start for that (7a+) after Mayday... ha, now that was hard! Sandbagged ever so slightly and then directed at the usual start, which was more awkward than anything else.
    Banned User 77 - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:


    Very easy week.. taking 2 weeks of easy running and messing around too recover, but 3 sessions of rugby this week hurt..

    m: nothing
    t: rugby training, 2 hours of running drills and touch
    w: 5 mile road run.
    t: 4 mile road run. 2 hours of running drills and touch
    f: 5 mile road run 7:30 pace.
    s: Rugby 7's tournament, won 1 game, lost 2.. felt rusty as hell
    s: 2 hours kayaking. 5 mile run 7:45 pace. 20 minutes swim.
    Luke Owens - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Cheers Matt

    Yeah, all moved now thanks! Settling in well, only problem is I don't have anywhere to put my fingerboard currently... Maybe the attic?

    Monday: Finished moving house stuff

    Tuesday: Unpacking

    Wednesday: Got ill, lack of sleep and loads going on probably didn't help.

    Thursday: Late session at Dinbren with Ally

    Having not tied on for about 2 months I didn't expect much. Had a few redpoints on "In Search of Someone Silly" (7a+). Fell off at the top then following attempts were worse. Sorted better beta at the end of the session. As expected I felt really unfit.

    Friday: Still ill

    Saturday: Rest

    Sunday: LPT - Warmed up on Boardwalk and got really warm! Fell off the top greasing off the slopers in the heat.

    Dogged up Night Glue (7a+). Really good route, a classic. I found the steep "easier" bit harder than what people think is the crux up the top, I found this bit not too bad. Had a redpoint and just got shut down on the jugs at the third bolt. Dogged back up it and the rest felt fine. Felt like a right punter and felt demoralised.

    I'm hoping to get some fitness back soon, I should be doing 7a+ easily by now.
    thebigfriendlymoose - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    > Anybody on here got any advice on working steep routes?.... getting off the rope and onto the rock again when I want to have another go at something seems to require a couple of moves worth of energy... Am I missing some tricks or is it just hard work?

    You're likely not missing anything, unless you are only top-roping the route. Once you're capable of dogging your way up the entire length of the route, then, it might be worth trying to work on lead. Advancing bolt-by-bolt trying each section as you go. It can get a bit wearing taking numerous short lead falls but for steep walls and those with roofs it's often the best way (short jolts rather than huge swings). It's often easier to clip than un-clip too, and you reduce the chance of wasting time with bad clipping beta.
    Jamming Dodger on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Managed to get my three bike commutes in despite the novelty having worn off a long time ago.
    This week going to ride to work 2.5 times and then its straight off to Ireland with Mr B. No kids, no work, no hassle and a few days of doing what we want with lots of riding thrown in; cant wait. Fortunately I dont like guiness so I should be fine regards the overindulging.
    Ive not been climbing for ages; being a bit overweight is sapping my motivation. I type this as i eat a scone so I think I know where the problem may lie... :/ The weekends and evenings seem to dribble away when kids are involved which is something Im going to work on.
    Ah well, i'll burn it all off on hols.

    Tyler - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:
    > Tyler - Has ashes been downgraded yet? ;)

    I'm really in no position to say if it warrants one other than to say I thought it was top end before and it now seems a little easier.

    Terrible week, drifting once again and my disorganisation at work is having a knock on effect on the rest of my life. Aim for this week is to get more time efficient but as I'm writing this on a Monday morning I'm not getting off to a good start!

    M: Nothing
    T: Longridge, got some new beta on second fifth but as I was expecting to do it tonight with my old beta this is scant consolation.
    W: Friend's wall with ER. Aimless puntering around; it was easy to see I wasn't putting in as much effort as ER but I couldn't rouse myself.
    T: Nothing
    F: Nothing
    S: Over ate
    S: Tor, got on Wild in Me, failed to do nearly all the moves so thought I'd finish up by doing Saline drip, succeed only I ruining my skin. Meant to be training tonight as well.
    Post edited at 09:46
    Nick Russell on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to thebigfriendlymoose:
    > You're likely not missing anything

    Thanks for the reply, I thought probably not, but worth asking.

    > ...unless you are only top-roping the route.

    Nope, working on lead from the beginning (with some aid required to put in clips). Nobody to put a TR up even if I wanted it... That said, I did on a few occasions clip one bolt then lower to the one below it to attempt the sequence up to the higher bolt.

    > you reduce the chance of wasting time with bad clipping beta.

    Also a good point, thanks. In this instance, I've got most of the clips worked out (though the beta for one of them is 'skip it').
    Ally Smith on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    Pull your finger out laddie!

    I'm in need of some aero-cap training. I could even be tempted indoors one evening this week if you're about?
    Ally Smith on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Two sessions back on Unjustified this week; including a big link.

    LTG (End 2014):
    - Healthy shoulders & elbows – keep following the physio
    - Get some proper “rat crimp” strength so that I can climb hard on peak lime
    - Do some adventurous cycle touring (maybe MTB Montenegro?)
    - Complete 3 peaks cyclo-cross race (not intending to be competitive, but still need to start running up hills again!)

    MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
    - Buy a house and build some home training facilities.
    - Unjustified/Overjustified, Malham.
    - Return to 7C+/8A f8b-ish link-up FA – Need some more top end PE for this bad boy!
    - Bolt the Dinbren project (Bolted a project, just not the one I initially thought about!)
    - On-sight some E5s in prep for...
    - Brandler-Hasse Cime Grande
    - Aero-power training; keep an-cap, finger-boarding and aero-cap ticking over.
    - Aim for fighting weight of 74kg and 6.6% BF – Steady at 74.4kg and 6.5% BF this morning.

    STG (The coming week)
    - Keep physio’ing the shoulder – making progress
    - Core, an-cap and foot-on campus sessions

    Last week:
    M - Rest. Theraband rotator cuff exercises and more general stretching – not done that in a while – ouch!
    T - Short post work Malham session. Dogged once, including “Overjustified” extension, then had RP attempt. Deck to crux, crux to very top, i.e. a new best link. Next go was rushed due to daylight; attempted belay of SS into crux link, but fell at same point. Tweaked crux micro beta. Ted took two 30’ whippers skipping the clip. Not sure if I’ll follow this course of action! 7a TR warm-down.
    W - Long day at work, but got psyched for training. Warm-up, 2 sets 1-arm lock-offs and 1-armers. FO campus. Max 215s (new PB) but aborted session after 4 sets due to sore shoulder. 260 core movements. 90 girlie press-ups.
    T - Ab DOMS of doom! Light session at Dinbren. 3x7a+/b
    F - Rest
    S - Malham. So humid it was like climbing in Thailand! Unjustified was shite. Tried a RP sprinting the SS section but still couldn’t get through crux. Need some extra undercut strength I think. Dogged then RP attempt on Straightened, came off on BB crux.
    S - 2 Tier. Warm-up than multiple attempts trying cruxy undercutting 7c+. Best go grabbed draw post crux eying up a ground fall with dodgy bolting - eek! 7a warm down then 7a+ failure powered out beyond belief. Finger feeling tweaky. 240 core movements and 70 girlie press-ups waiting for pizza to cook.
    Tyler - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Going to Stockport with ER tonight, hoping to get to Kilnsey or Longridge after work rest of week. Any of this of interest? Not sure what aero-cap is but I bet Longridge is ideal for this, it is for everything else!
    Eagle River - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    > Going to Stockport with ER tonight,

    That's news to me!

    Tyler - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Eagle River:
    Shit, it must be Paul then! Names never come up on this iPad!
    Post edited at 10:46
    AJM - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Nick Russell:

    Its hard work. If you're having to bounce to regain contact, or even otherwise, its worth making sure your belaying is always in midair when you're bouncing to make it most efficient.

    Some Americans in Terradets had a nice trick where the belayer has a jumar so they can climb right up to the first bolt which makes long bouncing sessions to regain contact a lot easier.

    Ally "showed" me a trick once where you pull up, get your foot into the loop you create and then stand up in it, which is good except that of course when you let the slack go it is helpful for it to be in control (ie hanging off a clip or similar) so that your belayer doesn't go miles as an extra 6 feet of slack enters the system. Ally, needless to say, didn't do that, and I nearly shot backwards over a small cliff!

    Shoulder seems to be gradually taking more abuse - done a 7b+ about a week ago and have tried another and an 8a at Orpierre, didn't get either (close on the 7b+) but its good that the shoulder seems comfy with that sort of abuse - more aches in the back than I'm used to but nothing from the actual cuff area itself. Muggy as anything here though so off to Ceuse later...
    JayK - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Cheers Matt. Feet are fine, it was just because I was in between boots.

    M- Bit of bouldering down the wall. Pottering around feeling a bit tired.
    T- Foot on campus. 3 x 3 minutes. Felt like my arms were going to explode. They've set a 24 move circuit on the training board. Managed it 5 times with 3 min rest between. This felt hard. Core: 490 dynamic 120 press-ups 8 mins plank. Current session lasts 30 minutes (20 minutes on 10 off) Currently high reps low sets.
    W- Bouldering
    T- Rest day? Core: 490 dynamic 120 press-ups 8 mins plank. Current session lasts 30 minutes (20 minutes on 10 off)
    F- Big session, warmed up. Foot on campus session, better 3 x 5min with 5min rest between. (want to be on 3 x 15 by the end of the 4 week cycle.) Already up to a lap and a half on the board session ~35moves? Want to be able to 5 laps at the end of the 4 week cycle. Did v4-6 circuits ~ 35 problems?
    S- Nothing
    S- Nothing
    Ally Smith on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    Good to hear the shoulder is recovering - sounds like a quicker fix than mine which is only now 90% better 6 weeks post injury.
    mattrm - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    I'm currently looking for a partner for Sunday for the Roaches (or other grit/limestone) near Stoke on Trent. Any one from fit club interested?
    hms - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    er - the belayer is rather on the light side!
    Ally Smith on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay:

    3min to 5min progress with foot-on campus is some epic progress.

    Are you sure you're not making it too easy if you really think 15min is a suitable target? 15min is way into the aero-cap zone, not the aero-power you should be training with F-O campus.

    Try swapping a stool to a proper foothold, or using smaller rungs to keep the F-O in the 3-5min zone and thus keep working the unbearable aero-power pump!
    Ally Smith on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Tyler:

    Sorry Ty. I'm bolx'd today/tonight from 2 hard days over the weekend.

    Kilnsey however does fit with plans. If you're back on the Ashes I'd be tempted to try the 50-for-5/Ashes link, especially if North Buttress has gone a bit seepy?
    Dandan82 - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks Matt, Sounds like your garden is much closer to being finished than mine, I'd say we are 15% finished, and that's probably conservative, there's many more hours of back breaking labour to look forward to!

    Good week, no climbing but good gym sessions and some seriously hard work erecting fances at the weekend that my elbows dealt with admirably.

    M: Sports massage, left arm mostly
    T: Shoulder; front barbell raise, arnold press, bent over lateral raise, reverse fly, cable front raise, cable lateral raise
    W: Chest; Bench, incline press, flat fly, dips +10kg, rear tricep raise
    F: Fence building
    S: Fence building

    Looking back it seems i missed a core session last week so i'll have to punish myself for that at some point this week.
    I've been doing finger exercises every day at work with my new grip master which is a versatile little thing, i'm quite impressed. I do a weekly test of single finger contractions using a weight on a sling and it seems my pulley-damaged finger is now storming back to full fitness, but the one next to it which seems to have pulled something across the palm from being favoured over the injured one is still a bit sore. I'm going to try a light climbing session indoor this week, test the waters and also give my elbows a bit of a test.
    Onwards and upwards...
    mattrm - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Dandan82:

    There's still a lot to go with mine. I was using a 5kg SDS drill to break up the concrete path at the weekend for a few hours. It was pretty brutal and I'm suffering now.

    Tyler - Sorry, should have been clearer, meant, have you done it (as everyone was going, if Tyler can do it, it's obviously too easy).

    biscuit - Wasn't meant to come across so abruptly. I shouldn't do the stats at the end of the day. That's not a bad weight.

    Luke Owens - I put mine in the kitchen. Means I can use it quickly and easily. If the attic is convenient, then that's good enough.
    JayK - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    I'm on a proper foothold Ally, just on big rungs on campus board. Building up my base level before moving onto the smaller rungs. Trust though, it builds up a mega pump. I expect to get back up to decent fitness relatively quickly - something which I have massively under trained for at least 10 months. I've always found endurance easy to come by hence setting the long time distance. To be fair, I was surprised myself in the rapid increase, but I think both days I tried last week, were after long days at work where I'd had less than 6 hours sleep.
    Post edited at 15:52
    JayK - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    Oh and I was hoping to use it for aero-cap. (Move-move-move, shake out, chalk, repeat.)

    Using the board for aero-power. (15 equally difficult moves every 3 mins)

    Obviously it could be completely wrong, but I'm going to see where I'm at at the end of this four week cycle, taper it for two weeks and then hit up Tres Ponts. Who knows, hopefully I'll be hitting up some form just before I go!
    Post edited at 15:56
    Ally Smith on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay:

    Try having another read of Alex's article. Your aero-cap base phase should have been completed before the aero-power phase you're talking about now. Also, 15 moves is an-cap territory, not aero-power.

    Sure, all of this is going to get you fit, but could you be doing it better?

    Won't Tres Ponts be more than a little hot in 6weeks time? You'll be praying for a breeze to add to the cooling effect of the nearby river?

    I'm quite intrigued to see how some other people would do on my foot-on set-up; it'd be nice to get a correlation between time and on-sight grade.

    I was just managing to break the 3min barrier before going to Oliana and flashing 7c/+ with ease, and coming close to an 8a OS. (i've got geeky Excel spreadsheets of the results)

    I'm 10% up on that now, but don't have an euro trips planned to make use of the fitness. UK routes don't lend themselves to on-sighting in anything like the same way, and hence any comparison to current on rock performance is fairly meaningless.
    JayK - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:
    We've got to remember that experience comes massively under the same window. I've never really pushed too hard in the sport territory O/S wise. Managed to O/S 7c in 2011, but a very bouldery one at that. Flashed a good number of 7b's and b+'s, despite only ever really being boulder fit. So will be interesting to see how the stamina training will effect? Might be a massive mental block at the moment though as these are goals that seemed impossible when I first started climbing.

    I'm doing a similar routine as a guy at the wall who's O/S 8a+. Although I'll take what you're saying into account as I'm only just starting to get my head round all this science. I've always just been a train hard and climb lots gets you good kinda guy. So applying training scientifically is a new skill I'm picking up. Interesting!

    Oh and Tres Pont will be hot. But it's also my summer holiday - so a time to top up my tan! And if you can climb anywhere in Spain at that time of the year, it's going to be there! I do it for fun as well as just ticking numbers! Not that they're not important!
    Post edited at 16:49
    JayK - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:
    Also, in terms of my peak climbing, I was at my best in 2011 when I had a gap between uni and work. 2012 was a massive dip. 2013 I ticked my first 8a but I wasn't climbing anywhere near as well as 2011. Now after the training from the start of the year, I'm stronger than I've ever been but completely unfit. I've dwarfed my bouldering figures from 2011, but yet to even tick 8a sport. I feel it will all become a lot easier when I live within 30 minutes of somewhere like Malham and Kilnsey and I get out on the rock a lot more often.

    Most of my crag trips are passing visits where I go there maybe twice a year at best. Partners, petrol costs and accommodation make it all very difficult.

    Sorry for clogging up the thread everyone! I am massively waffling at the moment.
    Post edited at 16:54
    Si dH - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to Ally Smith:

    Hi Ally, hijacking the fit club thread again but was the 7c+ minos? Just wondering what the crux felt like as a bouldering grade and what conditions were like on Sunday? Pretty impressed it wasn't damp
    Alun - on 09 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks Matt as always!

    Etape Eryri this weekend! (Happy just to finish)
    Andorra sportive (silver time of 5hr30m)

    Stay vaguely climbing fit over the long hot summer


    M - Rest
    T - Indoor bouldering. Started weak but got stronger
    W - Fast 66km ride with 1100 ascent. Several PBs on the climbs. Happy
    T - Indoor bouldering. Felt strong
    F - Nada
    S - Work
    S - Too much delicious good food

    Weight is still settled at 68kg despite eating and drinking a lot this week. Etape Eryri is this Sunday. I have been doing less cycling recently and will have one (short, fast) "pipe-opener" on Wednesday before packing up the bike for the journey. Can't wait!
    AJM - on 10 Jun 2014
    In reply to hms:

    When he is bouncing, your weight is on the rope and his isn't, so relative weights, up to a point (when they're so different that the force of him hitting the rope again causes you to lose more than you gain) doesn't matter.
    Goonie - on 10 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:
    Cheers again!

    This week not as great as last week time just flies by with a new born.

    Managed to get 2 bouldering sessions in and 2 core sessions but no rings and nobly 1 fingerboard session this week, me bad!

    Nowt else to report this week than that will try and up it next week to get the volume back up!

    Back up to bouldering V6 this week band it felt not to bad , also feeling stronger on 1 arm ½ crimp hangs, sort of a ½ hour session following some of the Chris Webb Parson stuff. Also started doing P90X Ab Ripper X for core, 16 minutes and your done it works really well!

    Goals for last week were:

    - Start back at conditioning focussing on gymnastic related core strength P90X Ab Ripper X) X 2 Tick
    - Do 3 fingerboard sessions ( Working on 1 hand ½ crimp varying weight and angle of locks. (Managed 1)
    - 2 bouldering sessions. Tick
    - 2 Ring sessions. (O)

    LTG (End 2014):
    - 8a (route to be decided)
    - 7B & 7B+ (Mestizo traverse and Consolidated)
    - Front Lever hold 5 sec.
    - 1 arm 1/2 crimp campus rung 1st joint for 5 sec.
    - Complete 3 seasons focussed periodisation training.
    - weight under 75kg

    MTG (Spring/Summer 2014):
    - V7 (the Gutter, Roaches)
    - trip to Ardeche now 7c minimum!
    - indoor V7
    - try and get 2 days out each month on rock (fatherhood)
    - Get the board in the Abbey built with Ben!
    - Weight under 77kg by August trip.

    STG (The coming week)
    - Try to get two ring sessions and two core sessions.
    - One bouldering session
    - 2 fingerboard sessions.

    Last Week:
    M - Bouldering and core session.
    T- rest
    W- Bouldering session and Core session.
    T- Rest skin care.
    F- Rest/Work
    S- Work (Abseil event)
    Su- Work (Abseil Event)

    Must try harder for next week!

    Weight this week at 80 kg, no change!

    Cheers all

    heelhookofglory - on 10 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Defo Roaches over Curbar mate. Plus it's only 10 mins from where you are staying!
    Nick Russell on 10 Jun 2014
    In reply to AJM:

    > When he is bouncing, your weight is on the rope and his isn't, so relative weights, up to a point (when they're so different that the force of him hitting the rope again causes you to lose more than you gain) doesn't matter.

    And I've not actually had to bounce to get back on at any point, it's always been possible to grab the rope/a draw during the swing. Thanks for the input Andy, I did suspect that steep routes are just generally a bit harder to work. Fortunately I'll pretty much be on redpoint attempts now anyway!
    Ali - on 10 Jun 2014
    In reply to JimmyKay:

    I feel your pain! Seem to have acquired several projects so far this year, but difficult to get stuck into anything when my visits to the same crags are so far apart. There doesn't seem to be much point training specifically for stuff either.
    Ali - on 10 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks for doing FC again Matt. Unfortunately weather scuppered climbing plans at the weekend (was hoping to get out to Cheedale but downpours on Sat put pay to that) - starting to get frustrated that the weather seems to be gorgeous when I'm in London and not so great when I get out of London.

    M - Nothing
    T - Session at new Vauxhall bouldering wall - got quite excited and threw myself at problems until skin became too sore to continue (new holds - ouch!)
    W - Run to work - 5 miles-ish
    T - Ran to wall on way to work and attempted early morning session. Failed pretty miserably! Still tired and sore skin from Tuesday's session and running two days in a row tired me out too much I think
    F - Rest
    S - Walk in the peak in the rain - about 10 miles or so
    S - 8.5mile circular run up Kinder from Hayfield - really good, even managed to run up most of the hills!

    Climbing wise not a particularly productive week but got a fair bit of exercise in. Not sure what to focus on in terms of projects in UK (feeling I have to prioritise if I'm going to get annything done) but flights booked for Sicily in October - wohoo!! :D
    Exile - on 10 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks for doing fit club Matt - Afan was my local(ish) patch many moons ago - home for a family do so thought we'd get out there.


    Thanks for doing fit club.


    Rock this year: RP 7b, (A Vision of Things Gone Wild at Scout Scar) & lead some E3s, (White Noise, One Step Beyond, Empire, Paladin.)

    Next winter start with VI 7

    Long term aim, (18 months or so?) HP Exeguy (E6 6b) at Trowbarrow

    M: 50 min fell run
    T: 3 hrs climbing at Giggleswick - opened account on Silent Laughter, (7b,) all beta gratefully accepted! having warmed up on the 6c to the right - steady climbing to a short, hard, out of character crux at the top. A good evening.
    W: Rest
    T: 1hr fingery traversing on '7a traverse'
    F: 50min hilly road cycle
    S: Nothing
    S: 1hr 30min top roping E3s on Red wall - was aiming to lead one of them for a change, but put off by the greasy / muggy conditions. Also 2hrs family MTB ride over Claife Heights

    Good to get on routes at Giggleswick, otherwise steady away.

    Just over 11.5st now.
    Humperdink - on 11 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks Matt and thanks for doing the stats too!

    M: lunchtime - 4/5M steady in 31:12 felt good, pm - 7/8M steady in 50:45 felt good again
    Tu: pm Track Session: 3 x (4 x 200m) off 30secs and 5min, Short sharp and hard! Struggled for pace and was at the back. Times all 29 or 30sec though.
    W: Lunchtime 4/5M easy in 34:25, pm -7/8M steady in 52:20
    Th: legs felt tired, 5M easy in 37:16
    F: pm - Grass Session: 8 x "300" off 45 sec then 5min then flat out "300". Times were 55/54's then 49 for last one. Legs felt tired.
    Sa: am - 7/8M steady in 53:06, pm - 5M steady in 29:58 felt good!
    Su: V.hot ~80mins running round support gf do a 10K (She won!).

    Total ~66M felt tired by then end of this week so need to be careful not to overdo it, especially as track sessions are getting sharper/ quicker.
    Kevster - on 11 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Thanks Matt,
    A weak week for me, no climbing or real exercise, though I did manage to get the keys and start the DIY in the new house.
    I have managed something this week though!

    Cheers, Kev.
    Pagan - on 11 Jun 2014
    In reply to Exile:

    > Silent Laughter, (7b,) all beta gratefully accepted!

    Fairly basic from memory; top crux is all in the feet, make sure you know where they're going - if they're in the wrong place it feels desperate. I seem to recall a little thumb catch for the poor LH gaston which made it a little easier to hold. The bottom bit getting into the groove I did from the right - left foot on a big hold, RH holding a white patch? on the edge of the groove as a press, rocking up and pressing out until LH could reach over to a pocket (?). This is 5 year old beta (at least!) though so may not be accurate...
    Just Tintin - on 12 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    2-8 June

    Thanks Matt. Glad you are making good progress. What’s the next house project? I’m psyching myself to poke the roof of my shed and see if it falls down…I have it earmarked for a climbing gear and wood store eventually!

    M – Rest
    T – Brookes routes and hangboard (including 3 bonus pull-ups, I know it doesn’t sound like much, but it’s a record!)
    W – Routes and boulder Reading including a mean 6c and a V4-6 onsight.
    T – Teaching beginners Brookes with a bit of bouldering (new blue problem) and a couple of top ropes (to 6a+). Grigri side-coaching practice. Hangboard and pull-ups.
    F – Rest
    S – Working all day :0(
    S – Bouldering Burbage North. First proper V4 on grit!

    Checking in with the goals this week and will re-adjust next week:

    Revised short term goals (May)
    1. More cardio – the spin classes are paying off so need to do more!
    2. Train antagonists, at least one bench press session per week (not so good on this – keep going!)
    3. Put together all the 7as at Brookes (keep going)
    4. Make climbing partner do his physio and rehab (going well – the physio is good for me too!)

    Medium term goals (June/July)
    1. Book some trips outside UK (France in July)
    2. Get on rock as much as possible (100 sessions in 2014) – 29 so far
    3. Learn to embrace failure (not sure this will ever happen) – not going well
    4. Consolidate finger strength programme – definitely seeing results here already

    Long term goals (2014)
    Trad: Rack up E1 onsights. Lead E2. Second harder routes whenever there is opportunity.
    Sport: Solid at 6b/6c outdoors, pushing 7a indoors ready for Yangshuo trip
    Bouldering: Solid at V2/V3 outdoors. Working V4/V5 indoors.
    Running: Improve on Kielder Marathon time in October

    Exile - on 12 Jun 2014
    In reply to Pagan:

    heelhookofglory - on 14 Jun 2014
    In reply to mattrm:

    Cheers Matt, really enjoyed it!

    Mixed week with no climbing. Heavy workload resulted in maintenance mode.

    This Week:

    Weight: 144 lbs

    M: Rest
    T: Rest
    W: Pull ups, bicep curls
    F: Upper body strength
    S: 40km mtb

    Drunk Enough Font 6C+ (Roaches) (TICK!)
    Top 20% in category Summer Classic XC at Cannock on 1st June (TICK! Actually top 10% with 6th out of 66)
    -> Get weight back down to 140ish
    -> Sleeping With The Flowers 6C+/7A (Roaches)
    -> Simple Simon Indirect (Churnet)
    -> The Undercut (Churnet)
    Second more routes on trad
    Lead Severe (Route TBD)
    Too Drunk 7A (Roaches)
    Hit the trails on the MTB when possible

    MTG (by Dec 2014):
    Consolidate at Font 7A
    Tick a Font 7B
    Ousal Low 7A+/B, Churnet

    VLTG (plus some superficially grade-based for now):
    Cenotaph Corner
    Cemetery Gates
    Juvsøyla (WI6), Rjukan
    Lipton Ice (WI6/7), Rjukan
    7B, E1, WI6, VI 6, ED Alpine
    Consolidate winter experience

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