/ Lesser known Pembroke gems E2-4

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Jon Stewart - on 09 Jun 2014

As the title says, what's out there that's not the obvious stuff, especially at crags not in the Rockfax (but not Range West).

So far I've got Pan (always wet?) and Splendour on the list, plus Wavelength and maybe Deep Throat. Any other ideas?

cem on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Chimera at Giltar Walls
Ged Desforges - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Pan is often wet at the bottom, but you can take a hanging belay at the hole in the crack. Superb climb. The E5's on there are great too.

Near there is a unique climb called sweet surrender, lots of pockets and threads on a wall;Ceuse comes to Pembroke! E4 5c

Zip Zak E4 6a just on the outside of the Pan Zawn, also superb.

Zero She Flies in Raming hole.

Deep Throat is indeed quality.

Excellent E4 on the Castle called Black Man Ray. Relies a bit on a Peg, but it's good.

Far side of Stackpole: Valdamir goes to Havanna (E4), and the other routes on that wall. A lot of them are 2 pitches, but if the tide is up, just do the top pitches from the big halfway ledge. They're the best bits anyway. Useful place to warm up whilst waiting for low tide on stackpoel or mowing word.

Olive Branch (E4) on Mowing Word also excellent.
Duncan Campbell - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:
Its in the Rockfax, but is relatively unclimbed judging by a) the spikiness of the rock and b) the amount of logs in the database - Mosaic Walls, we only did Rollerwall (E3) but Mural Landscape (E3) and Wallbanger (E4) both also look ace and I'll defo head back for them.

Lone Archer (E4) on the West face of the Castle is good as is Brother Beyond (E3). Not in the Rockfax though.

Dunc
Post edited at 13:50
John2 - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

There's Trapdoor at the Castle (top end E2), and Beachcomber (E4) on Triple Overhang Buttress, but really anything with a star is likely to be well worth climbing.
Jon Stewart - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to all:

Thanks for all these so far - great responses.

David Barlow - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

The longest E2 there: the 11 pitch Underneath the Arches (though it's bird banned, so it's best to do it in February after the winter storms have cleaned it).

Amazon E3 5c at Amazon Walls, just beyond Mother Caries.

The Soup Dragon E2, 2 pitches - requires low tide and calm sea.
ellis - on 09 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Alien World (Direct), one of the best E3(E4) outings on sea cliffs!
John Alcock - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to ellis:

Ghostly Galleon at St Govs East
Ed morris - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Star Shot (E3) at bubbleton is very good and P1 is one of the steepest E3s in pembroke. The top pitch is pretty out there too.
Jon Stewart - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Ed morris:

Interesting! Think I should get the CC guide that covers the Lydstep area as well as the Stackpole one for Chance Encounter Zawn etc.
Cardi - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Across the universe, E2, Blockhouse Buttress looks outrageous, although wimped out and did the HS at the weekend! Planet Waves nearby also looks improbable at the grade.
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Adam Long - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Wish you were here at the Cauldron. The other routes here look good too, but I've never seen anyone else around unlike the rammed areas a mile east.

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