/ Cornish Crag Advice
Honestly? I think Dartmoor is only a couple of hours from you, but I don't think there's anything much else down that way. Could be that a locally produced guidebook, written by volunteers, would help you out a bit more ;-)
EBay often has cheap second hand guides
I'll be down Bosigran doing easy stuff with a mate who's just started climbing. Feel free to come have a look at my guide and pick some appropriate lines for your group.
Sennen would be your best bet. You don't need to ab in and it has a great selection of single pitch routes (and a few multipitch routes many of which can be done as one pitch) and is 37 minutes drive from st ives.
Nonsense. Bosigran is one of the finest cliffs in the country and very near St.Ives as is Sennen.
To the OP:South West Cliimbs would be a good guide as it covers the whole area as far north as Bristol.
As pointed out both Bosigran and Sennen are close and suitable, the former having excellent lines at all grades. As an alternative, if some of the group are beginners, try Halldrine Cove the next bay on the St Ives side of Bosigran.
A free topo is available at
Is that near Okehampton?
Seriously, though, if somebody came on stating that they were going to stay in Sheffield, didn't want to buy a guide, but was there any worthwhile climbing in the area? Would a suitable answer be 'oh, yeah - try 3 pebble slab at Froggatt; it's a great HVS'?
I live in west Cornwall. There are dozens of excellent crags. I'd love to give you some great tips on where would suit you (if I was off work, I'd show you round myself), but you're going to need a guide to actually find climbs.
And Bosigran is a towering hulk of oppressiveness on which I'm going to die one day. I can feel it.
Jesus! What have you been climbing at Bosi?!
Climbing in Cornwall without a guide book is like.... driving into London without a map. Bosigran is a wonderful cliff but it would take an amazingly brilliant climber to just look at it and pick out the routes and their grades with no prior knowledge, especially for the weaker of your mixed ability adults!
Good luck :-)
The Edwards' guide is widely available for under a tenner, delivered to the door. Possibly the best bet for a casual visitor, as it's a bit better on the approaches and photo-topos
Alison's Rib <shudder>
Trewavas http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=212 would be ideal, however it's not in the new CC South West selected guide, there are 7 routes in the Rockfax guide, but as you can see loads more there (so get the definitive guide!). It's single pitch, the base is easily accessed grassy ledges well above the sea, yet it has a "sea cliff feel", I've taken groups of beginners there and it is fairly easy to set up top / bottom ropes if that's what you want.
Think of the guidebook as a long term investment, you WILL be back!
I'm not convinced Sennan is the best bet without an ab rope - it is true you don't need one to get to the base of the cliff, but that descent is going to get old pretty quickly without one.
We don't want your kind round ere anyway, go to Cheesering Quarry, that's all we've got ;)
Ooh. That was a bit blunt. Unless you mean me, in which case fair point.
The thing is, Sennen or Trewavas probably are the best bets, with Trewavas best for nervous beginners. Sennen gives you a tidy-sized platform to walk around on, genuine sea crag atmosphere and complete visibility.
But buy at least a second hand guide. Or even borrow one. Because you're not going to find anything without it.
Get a guidebook. You're presumably spending plenty on petrol, camping etc, why skimp on £20.
If you want a guide on the cheap, I can sell you the 1992 Chair Ladder guide for about a fiver inc postage. Chair Ladder itself is not appropriate for a team of beginners, but it includes Trewavas. If you do get the climbers club guide, be aware that some of the 1* routes would be 3* anywhere else
If you want a short cliff with easy access, and easily top-roped, try Porth Nanven.
Otherwise, as others have said, Trewavas is very easy to manage a group at, with easy walk on access. Sennen not so much so, access isn't easy, but a great venue.
Thanks all - I think/know i didn't explain myself properly to be fair...it was to get a steer on which crags to aim for prior to getting the appropriate guidebook, apologise for sounding like an idiot but some really good stuff here. Cheers
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