/ Cornish Crag Advice

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Deaks - on 10 Jun 2014
I'll be down in the St Ives area with a group of mixed ability adults and was after a steer on recommended crags within easy striking distance. Quarry or sea cliffs would be great. I'm not familiar with the area and slightly loathe to buy a guidebook just for those few days. TY
maisie on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:

Honestly? I think Dartmoor is only a couple of hours from you, but I don't think there's anything much else down that way. Could be that a locally produced guidebook, written by volunteers, would help you out a bit more ;-)

EBay often has cheap second hand guides

Martin
Dave 88 - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:

I'll be down Bosigran doing easy stuff with a mate who's just started climbing. Feel free to come have a look at my guide and pick some appropriate lines for your group.
CurlyStevo - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:
Sennen would be your best bet. You don't need to ab in and it has a great selection of single pitch routes (and a few multipitch routes many of which can be done as one pitch) and is 37 minutes drive from st ives.
Post edited at 17:50
GridNorth - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to maisie:

> Honestly? I think Dartmoor is only a couple of hours from you, but I don't think there's anything much else down that way. Could be that a locally produced guidebook, written by volunteers, would help you out a bit more ;-)

> EBay often has cheap second hand guides

> Martin

Nonsense. Bosigran is one of the finest cliffs in the country and very near St.Ives as is Sennen.

To the OP:South West Cliimbs would be a good guide as it covers the whole area as far north as Bristol.
Skip - on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:

As pointed out both Bosigran and Sennen are close and suitable, the former having excellent lines at all grades. As an alternative, if some of the group are beginners, try Halldrine Cove the next bay on the St Ives side of Bosigran.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=2706

A free topo is available at

http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/downloads/Halldrine-Cove.pdf
maisie on 10 Jun 2014
In reply to GridNorth:

> Nonsense. Bosigran is one of the finest cliffs in the country and very near St.Ives as is Sennen.

Is that near Okehampton?

Seriously, though, if somebody came on stating that they were going to stay in Sheffield, didn't want to buy a guide, but was there any worthwhile climbing in the area? Would a suitable answer be 'oh, yeah - try 3 pebble slab at Froggatt; it's a great HVS'?

I live in west Cornwall. There are dozens of excellent crags. I'd love to give you some great tips on where would suit you (if I was off work, I'd show you round myself), but you're going to need a guide to actually find climbs.

And Bosigran is a towering hulk of oppressiveness on which I'm going to die one day. I can feel it.

Martin
Merlin - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply

Jesus! What have you been climbing at Bosi?!
Bruce Hooker - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:
Climbing in Cornwall without a guide book is like.... driving into London without a map. Bosigran is a wonderful cliff but it would take an amazingly brilliant climber to just look at it and pick out the routes and their grades with no prior knowledge, especially for the weaker of your mixed ability adults!

Good luck :-)
Post edited at 08:11
Motown - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks: Sennen but buy a guide book. South West Climbs is twenty quid on AMAZON and although the full Climbers Club is more comprehensive it's all you need. Plenty of great VD and S routes for a mixed group. Bosigran also has plenty but the shorter pitches make Sennen a much better bet IMHO. Halldrine does have a few low grade routes but if the seas are rough then the starts are hard and they lack the positive holds of the Sennen stuff. Is it midweek or at the weekend - try not to takeover the whole crag...

maisie on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Motown:

The Edwards' guide is widely available for under a tenner, delivered to the door. Possibly the best bet for a casual visitor, as it's a bit better on the approaches and photo-topos
maisie on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Merlin:

> In reply

> Jesus! What have you been climbing at Bosi?!

Alison's Rib <shudder>
Mark Kemball - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:

Trewavas http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=212 would be ideal, however it's not in the new CC South West selected guide, there are 7 routes in the Rockfax guide, but as you can see loads more there (so get the definitive guide!). It's single pitch, the base is easily accessed grassy ledges well above the sea, yet it has a "sea cliff feel", I've taken groups of beginners there and it is fairly easy to set up top / bottom ropes if that's what you want.

Think of the guidebook as a long term investment, you WILL be back!
Merlin - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to maisie:
Haha!

I'm not convinced Sennan is the best bet without an ab rope - it is true you don't need one to get to the base of the cliff, but that descent is going to get old pretty quickly without one.

We don't want your kind round ere anyway, go to Cheesering Quarry, that's all we've got ;)
Post edited at 16:48
maisie on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Merlin:

> We don't want your kind round ere anyway, go to Cheesering Quarry, that's all we've got ;)

Ooh. That was a bit blunt. Unless you mean me, in which case fair point.

The thing is, Sennen or Trewavas probably are the best bets, with Trewavas best for nervous beginners. Sennen gives you a tidy-sized platform to walk around on, genuine sea crag atmosphere and complete visibility.

But buy at least a second hand guide. Or even borrow one. Because you're not going to find anything without it.
stevieb - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:

Get a guidebook. You're presumably spending plenty on petrol, camping etc, why skimp on 20.
If you want a guide on the cheap, I can sell you the 1992 Chair Ladder guide for about a fiver inc postage. Chair Ladder itself is not appropriate for a team of beginners, but it includes Trewavas. If you do get the climbers club guide, be aware that some of the 1* routes would be 3* anywhere else
stroppygob - on 11 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:
If you want a short cliff with easy access, and easily top-roped, try Porth Nanven.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=667

Otherwise, as others have said, Trewavas is very easy to manage a group at, with easy walk on access. Sennen not so much so, access isn't easy, but a great venue.
Post edited at 22:15
Deaks - on 12 Jun 2014
In reply to Deaks:
> I'll be down in the St Ives area with a group of mixed ability adults and was after a steer on recommended crags within easy striking distance. Quarry or sea cliffs would be great. I'm not familiar with the area and slightly loathe to buy a guidebook just for those few days. TY

Thanks all - I think/know i didn't explain myself properly to be fair...it was to get a steer on which crags to aim for prior to getting the appropriate guidebook, apologise for sounding like an idiot but some really good stuff here. Cheers
maisie on 12 Jun 2014

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