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Topic - Verdon with an 80m single rope

robbo99 - on 27 Aug 2014

going to Verdon in September for a long weekend of pant soiling and grunting...possibly some climbing too

i gather from the rockfax guide that the majority of the climbs in the gorge require twin 60m ropes; primarily for the repeated 50m abseils in but presumably also because it makes an escape off the wall far easier given yuo can ab the full 60m length.

Can anyone suggest some easier multi-pitch that might be suitable with just a single 80m rope?
Post edited at 10:04
metal arms on 27 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:

Most stuff around the Dalles Grises abseil should fit the bill.
Merlin - on 27 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:

Escaping down into the gorge in an emergency isn't really an option, you really do need to be able to climb out.
Enty - on 27 Aug 2014
In reply to Merlin:

> Escaping down into the gorge in an emergency isn't really an option, you really do need to be able to climb out.

Really? So when that massive thunderstorm comes in you carry on up? I remember bailing from high on something years ago and being back on the ground in 40 minutes.

E
Mike Stretford - on 27 Aug 2014
In reply to Enty:

> Really? So when that massive thunderstorm comes in you carry on up? I remember bailing from high on something years ago and being back on the ground in 40 minutes.

Depends were you are, on parts of the gorge you will get stuck in mid air.
wbo - on 27 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:
it would be pretty tasty abbing out with a single 80. You'd need , as said, to be very confident that you can climb out

Havre you been before?
Post edited at 18:29
Enty - on 27 Aug 2014
In reply to wbo:

It's a good question though. If there's any classic routes with all the pitches less than 40m, anyone with a bit of nouse shouldn't have any problem rapping down to start the route or bailing in an emergency.


E
Hot Rock - on 27 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:

Take a 60m half and just tag it along... saves the risky business of getting stuck =)
The Grist - on 27 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99: you would be better off with 2 half ropes. But many of the well bolted classic lines like river dargent, a tout coeur and reve de fer would all be doable with a 80 m rope. They are 6b+ maximum. But all feel hard for the grade.
robbo99 - on 28 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:

Half ropes or double ropes? i think its the latter right? since halfs arent meant to be clipped into the same draw, right?
i dont really want to fork out for doubles if i dont have to given most of my climbing is <40m at cheddar/portland/swanage/brean...

i havent climbed Verdon before. i have led Shakin like a Leaf (7a) but feel comfortable around the 6b+ range i'd say, at least for the onsite; as graded in the UK. i gather Verdon grades are harder; La Demande even tho its 6a+ is very run out in the chimneys allegedly. The guy im going with climbs slightly easier due to shoulder injury.
robbo99 - on 28 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:

half/double are the same i mean half vs twin..!
The Grist - on 28 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:

La Demande is interesting. I actually found it harder than ULA which is supposed to be harder. I haven't even got to the top of La demande. I tried it twice and got rained off near the top twice. Do not try La Demande with a single rope. If you need to retreat you will have a nightmare. I speak from experience, I once retreated from high up with a single 70 metre rope. It was a stupid idea. Take big cams for La Demande as well. They will make the top feel a lot more sensible. If I had big cams (size 5 or 6) I could have aided up it in the rain.

In my opinion how hard routes are in the Verdon depends very much on how close the bolts are together. A 6B+ on bolts close together is fine but once you get a 8 metre run out with no trad gear it is suddenly like an exposed and hard e4.

Just start easy and work up.

John2 - on 28 Aug 2014
In reply to The Grist:

It can be helpful to take a half set of wires, to get the occasional runner in between bolts.
wbo - on 28 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99: my experience of the verdon and a lot of older French crags is the bolt spacing is adequate to protect you, but quite sporty. La demande is a bit of a handful all round, and i failed on it on the first go

Blue Straggler - on 28 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:

> since halfs arent meant to be clipped into the same draw, right?

I thought the idea was that you clip them alternately?
Macleod on 28 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:

When I was in Verdon earlier this year, the barman described La Demande as 'diseqippe' whic I interpreted with my limited french as 'They've taken the bolts out'.

May or may not be the case at the moment but worth checking if you're considering it.

Enjoy.
DubyaJamesDubya - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to robbo99:
> (In reply to robbo99)
>
> Half ropes or double ropes? i think its the latter right? since halfs arent meant to be clipped into the same draw, right?

You can clip half ropes into the same draw or alternate if appropriate. Twins you have to.
pawelx - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to Macleod:
interesting. I did La Demande 1.5 years ago when the bolts were still there. If they decided to take them out, that would make the route quite a demanding ~E2 proposition I guess.
But on camptocamp.org recent trip reports (auto-translated from French) don't suggest any removal of bolts: "Nothing new on the equipment".

From the same trip report: " some sections still severely for 6a! and ends well farted reaching the top"
Auto-translate managed to sum up my feelings about the top section quite well actually.
Post edited at 11:57
Blue Straggler - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to Macleod:

> When I was in Verdon earlier this year, the barman described La Demande as 'diseqippe' whic I interpreted with my limited french as 'They've taken the bolts out'.


Maybe it was a colourful way of saying "run out" i.e. "sparse bolting", depending on the tone/banter etc. ?
The Grist - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to Macleod: I did La demande a month ago. There are bolts but spaced. On a 30 metre pitch you may get 6 or 7 bolts. I did not get to the top due to a heavy thunderstorm and lack of psyche. The heat was also bad on the day I tried it. All the belays are equipped for abseil.
Macleod on 30 Aug 2014
In reply to The Grist:

Good to know. He was probably suggesting we take a rack then. Though that sounds like similar bolt spacing to that which we found on easy pitches of other routes there.

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