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Topic - belay set up

drsdave - on 29 Aug 2014
Hi can anyone tell me if 6mm cord is suitable for a regular belay set up?
highclimber - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

I personally wouldn't use 6mm for a belay as there are stronger alternatives like your ropes and sewn slings.
ex0 - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

I use 6mil..
sea_lene - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to ex0:

I have carried a coil of 4metre length of 6mm static cord for belays on multi pitch routes

Bombproof (so long as the gear holds!)
drsdave - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to highclimber:

so 6mm do and 6mm dont?? Im assuming 6mm cord is a dynamic stretch
highclimber - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

It's safe enough of course but there are better, stronger alternatives.
jezb1 - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

I don't use cord for belays personally, I think it's quite rare for cord to be the best option and therefore don't carry it.

6mm is strong enough, 7mm is a lot stronger but obviously bulkier...
drsdave - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

so what about the use of nylon tape?
Craigyboy13 - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

what is 6mm rated to?

surely a 240cm dyneema sling is 5 times lighter than cord? and double the strength?
highclimber - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

I find open tapes and cords just complicates building belays. 120cm slings (240 in some instances) are my go-to product for most belays but I use my ropes too for all other times.
Ron Rees Davies - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

6mm cord is going to have a breaking strain of around 750kg, roughly equivalent to 7.5 KN. There may be some advantage over a sling because it may be more dynamic, but also loss of strength because it has to be knotted.

A factor 2 leader fall could generate 9KN at the belay.

Assuming you have 2 or 3 pieces of gear placed, in appropriate positions and well equalised with loops of the cord this is obviously safe (especially since small pieces of gear may be rated less than the 7.5KN cord anyway, and some nuts and hexes may be tied using 6mm cord).

The main problem comes if it's not perfectly equalised and one strand of cord comes into play before the others. It's highly unlikely, but that could be 9KN on a 7.5KN strand of cord (rather than on a 22KN sling or better still a length of the climbing rope itself).

There is also the risk of knot failure / slippage, which you should be able to avoid by tying correctly but which is largely avoided using sewn slings or the climbing rope.
drsdave - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

Thanks Ron, that does it then, cord only for emergencies or abseiling otherwise slings.
What about tape, nylon non dyneema
AlanLittle - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:

As highclimber said, you'd just be adding complexity and faff in order to achieve what, exactly?

Just use the rope(s), a long dyneema sling or two, or if you really want to look American, a cordelette made of 7mm nylon or 5.5 mm kevlar cord.
drsdave - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to AlanLittle:

done, ta
gd303uk - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to drsdave:
I use 7mm cord as a snake cord/sling, it is handy. And use long slings as cordelettes also, the rope is always the strongest thing to use to set up a belay.

http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/the_snake_cord

http://www.andy-kirkpatrick.com/articles/view/equalising_slings_and_cords
Post edited at 20:35
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drsdave - on 30 Aug 2014
In reply to gd303uk:

cheers mate

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