/ Anyone been into the Wakhan/Pamirs recently?

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Frank the Husky - on 29 Aug 2014
I'm planning on going there next year and am after some hints and tips regarding logistics and other stuff which I might not have thought of. I'm up to speed on visas and letters of introduction etc, and will likely be starting out from Dushanbe. I have a conversational standard of Russian and (less so) Dari but no Tajik.

I'm not mountaineering, but I will likely be crossing some high passes on my intended circular route from Dushanbe via the Littel and Big Pamirs.

Any experiences gratefully listened to!
L.A. on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky: Mailed you

AlH - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Not been this year but 2013 and 2010. Adab Shah Gouhari is a reliable agent with access to a large staff many of whom speak excellent English.
His Facebook page and email address are here: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Adventure-Wakhan/194100030642635?sk=info but I haven't heard any reports from trips this year.
some good background stuff here: http://www.pamirs.org/afghan-wakhan.htm
Our last 2 trips are here on UKC: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3031 and http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5984
Bear in mind this is a little more out there than most Nepal/Indian/Tajik type trekking regions. A casevac by helicopter from a private company that normally provides medical cover for charities and NGOs further south was arranged from Sarhad in 2010 but it took a week to arrange a 4 hour window of permission and could only get as far as the end of the road. Dari is pretty useless outside Ishkasem (the helicopter in 2010 brought an interpreter but ended up using ours as he spoke Wakhi). If folk speak a european language though its often Russian and English is becoming more popular. Make sure you allow plenty of time for travel hitches. Both times I've been there the main road has been washed out and we've ended up riding to and trekking round blockages (see the 2013 article ;-) taking longer than expected. Take a Satphone (the BBC with us in 2010 had problems with their Thuraya but I've had no problems with Iridium either time.
Its an amazing place with some of the most hospitable people I've met anywhere. If you go to Sarhad stay at Qachi Beg's guesthouse and don't let your interpreter/guide put you anywhere else (they will try)- just because he is an amazing old gentleman who is an excellent understated ambassador for the area.
PM me any specific queries you have but bear in mind my info is already a year out of date. Al
Frank the Husky - on 29 Aug 2014
In reply to L.A.: Thanks, but nothing arrived. Try again on kinderguide@hotmail.com.

JdotP - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

I've not been to the Wakhan (yet) but have travelled quite a bit in the mountains in Tajikistan. I've been from Dushanbe round to Murgab, halfway back round towards Bartang, up the Vakhsh valley to Jirgatal (Peter 1st range), visited the Hissar range north of Dushanbe and also visited the Kyrgyz side of the Pamir Alai.

I will be at Wiltonfest this weekend if you'd like to meet up and ask any questions?

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