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Topic - Soft 6a in Font

Smithy_P - on 01 Sep 2014
As per the title looking for 6a's in font which are soft for their grade?

Cheers in advance, I look forward to both your recommendations and abuse.
Jon Stewart - on 01 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:

Is there such a thing?
Smithy_P - on 01 Sep 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

After today I would completely agree with you
spenser - on 01 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:

La Pendule at the Petit Bois boulders is supposed to be soft for the grade, I nearly managed it. There does seem to be a massive leap between 5c and 6a.
mrchewy - on 01 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:

Le Petit Bois at Ouisaux - I managed it in two attempts and I'm pretty crap. The Bleau site though has a fair bit of 6B voting for it. The rock round there has less polish it would seem to me and it generally quieter, which does make a huge difference to how I climb.
jkarran - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Jon Stewart:

> Is there such a thing?

Yeah, they give them 6c :)

jk
grubes - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:

I thought La Moreau (Black 23) at L'elephant was pretty okay should of flashed it but foot slipped on the top out. Committing to the mono first pull was the hard bit for me.
RFWilkie - on 02 Sep 2014
Tru - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:
This one is thuggy, requiring power but not a lot of technical finesse. My first 6A in Font when I only had indoor climbing experience to draw upon.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=72497
Post edited at 10:21
Offwidth - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:
Calvaire and Elephant or back woods stuff with little traffic...nothing soft for 6a but soft for 6a at Font.
Post edited at 11:29
seankenny - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:

I'm guessing you're a relative beginner and new to Font, in which case surely the best thing is to wander the forest, visit the areas with the best conditions and that you like, try everything and just get a feel for the place. Grade-chasing when you've not been to Font much before is a bit silly, imho.
Fergal - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:
Yep Black 20 at the Elephant is a steal, my very first, dry's real quick to.

Moondance at Cuisinier is a very aeshetic problem, in a near perfect sylvian setting, not technically hard, but quite highball.

edit here you go http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=65899 well it seems people feel it is hard for the grade! although I would disagree, as I flashed this, but maybe I was climbing better than I thought, very good though.
Post edited at 11:56
JLS on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:

I found a rich vain of soft 6A's on the red circuit at Rocher Cannon.

Try these...

http://bleau.info/canon/3306.html

http://bleau.info/canon/3292.html

http://bleau.info/canon/1663.html

JimboWizbo - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:

Elephant ones described above

Also La Nez at Bas Cuvier, on the same block as Marie Rose and about 3 grades easier in reality
Mick r - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to seankenny:

agree with this when visiting font, leave your ego behind and just enjoy the experience. If you're climbing around this grade i'd suggest finding a blue circuit and just picking off a few blacks and reds as you go past. only check the grades when you finish.

what do you climb in the UK btw? sport equivalent of Font 6a is 7a+ and top end UK6a tech grade
Offwidth - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to Mick r:

Anyone looking for soft 6s at font does need to recongnise and not be put off that blue problems will regularly spank them despite the approximate range of low 4 to 5.
seankenny - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

What did it say in the old On the Edge guidebook. Something like: "Don't forget, Font 5+ is hard! You can climb 7c and still fail on them."

mrchewy - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to Offwidth:

Agreed. Despite managing my first 6A, 6A+ and possibly a 6B in the forest last month, I failed miserably on the blue circuit at J A Martin on the last day. Eventually, I picked up my doormat and pottered around flashing all the oranges I could find... which was pure fun and often as not, quite nerve-wracking considering the topouts with no pad below.
The 6th grade problems I managed, I climbed and had no idea of the grade untill I checked Bleau later. Maybe in the higher grades Font is for pushing grades but down in the bit I inhabit, it's all about getting your arse kicked and just climbing lots.
ads.ukclimbing.com
robal - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to Smithy_P:

Red 10 at Cul de Chien, the bottom is ace, the top is a one move wonder, I am amazed that this is a 6a....

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