/ Anybody managed this party trick?
1 in a million?
Cool, did this mean you could abseil the 2nd pitch in a one-r?
I once bailed off a winter route in a blizzard, in the dark, and when trying to pull the ropes found that they would only move a meter whichever way I pulled. We had abbed from the 2nd belay where I left a bomber wire. At some point during the abseil the rope had clipped itself into an in-situ peg with a krab, thus trapping the knot between 2 krabs.
I only know this because some kind soul returned the ropes to us and explained how they were found!
I've seen one other person post on here in ~5 years with exactly the same problem. The end whips up through its own loop when you give it the final tug.
I've had this happen twice in twenty five years of climbing
Mmmm the self manufacturing half hitch - a rare example!
This reminds me of a hypothetical problem that was set whilst on an MIC training course. It involved the retreat of a big wall with a wildly overhanging pitch of 40 m to a good ledge with a 50m rope with more easy short abseils to follow below. This required the rope to be retrieved. One solution (Not tried or recommended) involved a sheepshank in the rope in which the dead part was then cut. While in tension the knot held but when shaken out it released allowing the continuation of the retreat process.
It happened to me and the Mrs sport climbing a few months ago, same knot.
Top tip, don't suddenly give it 'a good tug'. Smoothly pulling removes a lot of weird edge cases like this.
Did this abbing off bolts on an ice route. Looked exactly the same as your problem when I climbed back up to sort it out.
In a blizzard descending Mount Kenya:
Yeah, I'm sure it does. Problem I find with just letting the rope fall is that it's more likely to catch on spikes, etc and get jammed that way. Maybe it's a skinny half rope problem.
Must have been grim. I was lucky in that I only had 20m climbing back up to to ab point.
Awesome. That is really bad luck!
Amazing! I'd never seen or heard of this before!
It is amazing what the end of a rope will do. Much more common than this, the end of the rope can form a small loop that is not threaded through itself, but which nevertheless can fly into a crack and get caught. When one tries to pull the rope down, the downward rope jams sideways against the upward going rope. The more one pulls, the worse the jam becomes. As others have said, I think it is best to be gentle or even very gentle with that final tug.
This happened to a mate of mine when he was descending in the Dolomites. He had an exciting time jumaring back up it to retrieve .. apparently no other option.
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