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Topic - More bolts at New Mills ?

pauldr - on 01 Sep 2014

Wife was down the Tors this evening and said that someone has bolted the main wall that the Millennium walkway bridge goes along. Does anyone know about this ? Im going to go down in the morning to check it out. I would have thought that permission to bolt this area wouldnt be given as its right next to the walkway.
Post edited at 21:36
buxtoncoffeelover - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to pauldr:
Did you check it out? Does it look worth a visit? Nik
MikeyP - on 02 Sep 2014
In reply to pauldr:

They're for accessing the down-pipe. It blocks up from time to time and needs clearing.
pauldr - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to pauldr:

Ok.. Cheers for the info
MischaHY - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to pauldr:

One thing I would like to point out whilst this thread is here is that someone has been putting a bunch of new pegs in at new mills, not just replacing old ones but actually pegging on potential new lines, sometimes next to genuine gear placements.

Please, don't do this. It is completely unnecessary and takes away the challenge for someone who is capable of the climbing. For example, there is a new peg to the right of Alcove Crack that would be right on the potential direct line of "like a ship without a rudder" (E4). This peg is sitting right next to a bomber wire placement.

Off topic, but I've been meaning to point it out for a couple of weeks now.
pauldr - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

i wouldnt climb it mate, as the other guys said, there for access, So it might bugger up future access to the climbing thats already there if anyone does try to climb it.
buxtoncoffeelover - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to pauldr:

Cheers. Not good news re new pegs cluttering up trad routes either.
Frank the Husky - on 03 Sep 2014
In reply to MischaHY: When you say "a bunch of new pegs" how many do you mean and where?

From your post it appears that you object to old pegs being replaced and new pegs in new/unclimbed lines, have I read that right?

In my opinion, there's nothing wrong with replacing old and knackered pegs, or putting pegs into new lines at the Torrs.

Finally, there's no such thing as a direct start to "Like a Ship without an Anchor" as it starts directly beneath where is finishes (although it does jig left and then back right at half height, is that where you mean with this peg?)

victim of mathematics - on 04 Sep 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

He never said 'direct start', but 'direct line'.

Also - new pegs on grit ok, even next to good gear placements? Really?
paul mitchell - on 04 Sep 2014
In reply to pauldr:

I have pegs in a route I completed last week,right of Mather.GRUNTIES,E3 6A.Get on it and acknowledge how good it is.The peg r of Alcove is to hold the toprope
in line with a superdirect boulder version I am working on.Take that one out if u really are so upset by it.I may put it back in tho.

I guess you object to the new peg in the Arete that I replaced,next to the death rusty one?

Frank the Husky - on 04 Sep 2014
In reply to victim of mathematics: Ah right, OK. The bit where it jinks right and left. Without having been on the line it's difficult to make judgements. Maybe that "bomber wire placement" is the only thing between you and the ground on what's likely to be 6c territory. If it was me I'd double it up, especially given the nature of the rock at the Torrs. I guess you're not familiar with how snappy it can be.

I didn't say that pegs were fine right next to good gear placments, I said new pegs were fine - full stop. For the record I've replaced a number of rotten old pegs at the Torrs and will continue to do so.

I'll have a look later this week to see what "right next to" means.

Frank the Husky - on 04 Sep 2014
In reply to paul mitchell: Nice work Mitch. Once my broken finger heals I will repeat & downgrade Grunties.

MischaHY - on 04 Sep 2014
In reply to pauldr:

Replacing old pegs is fine. Pegs in places where otherwise the route might be E6 and upwards territory? Removing a challenge perhaps, but not that big of a deal as knowing that the line it refers too, it was pretty damn blank for gear. I'm just not keen on pegs being placed next to solid gear placements - specifically, I've been up there and seated a couple of wires in myself, so I know they're good.

How is the direct going to ship without an anchor? I thought you'd got it pretty much sussed?
Frank the Husky - on 04 Sep 2014
In reply to MischaHY: Fair enough, glad the wires are good, and now we know why the peg's there.

On a slightly different topic, I don't think a new peg in a route should be reserved for high grades. There's no reason HVS climbers shouldn't enjoy the comparative safety of a peg where otherwise there would be nothing. I've done a few new routes up in Lancashire recently that are sub E4 but which have a peg (or two) in them and I see no real reason to do any different.
MischaHY - on 04 Sep 2014
In reply to Frank the Husky:

For me, it's just a matter of ethics and the idea of leader placed protection. I understand pegs where there is potential for a groundfall or fiddly gear that is simply too hard to place, and where preplacing would blow a potential onsight - but for easier climbing I don't personally see this need. After all, we could just say that pegs in every route, would make all the climbing comparatively safer, but that is ridiculous.

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