The block at the top of Oceanid is in a very dangerous state. We tried to trundle it but it is held in at the back by a lip of rock. Only about 1 cm of the block is preventing it from rocking over the edge. We have made it even looser by trying to remove it.
It is possible to climb Tudor Rose and Facedancing without too much danger as long as care is taken to keep the ropes running away from the block when climbing past it. The routes that use the first pitch of Oceanid (Warlord etc.) are unaffected. The second pitch of Oceanid is currently a really bad idea. Even though it may be possible to climb round the block, ropes are bound to run past it.
The block sticks out very obviously and can be seen from the base of the routes. It’s probably best not to belay under it.
Next time I’m down at Swanage I’ll try to get it with a crowbar – unless anyone thinks that’s a really bad idea. There will be some other loose stuff to come down from around it but the corner basically looked sound and the other routes that use that finish should still be fine. I also think Oceanid will be fine but haven’t done it so I’m not certain which holds are crucial.
If anyone has comments, post them here.
... not showing 16 replies to this topic ... Register now or login to gain full access to the forums. Registration is quick and completely free.
If you are definitely logged on, press Ctrl+F5 keys to reload this page [read more]
Unregistered users can only read messages in the most recent topics.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Topic - swanage: oceanid block is even looser
by - 
