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Fear of Falling

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I have got a big fear of falling which is really irritating me as I know it's stupid but I just can't convince myself enouh to go for moves on routes if I think I might fall. How can I get over this? Am I just going to have to try and make myself go for a move and risk falling?
Ron Manager 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: Take a couple of lobs onto good gear, know that it works!

Then know just how good your gear is before making sketchy moves!!
J2 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

what r u scared off? the rope not working?
In reply to J2:

Am scared of lots of things, won't lead as I'm scared of falling onto my gear, worry about the rope and also worried that whoever is belaying me will drop me.
 Wingnut 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:
Try jumping off deliberately - indoors if poss, as this will have you (a) on bolts (b) able to find something overhanging enough that you won't hit anything on the way down but still endowed with enough jugs to be climbable by normal mortals. If you can't force yourself to let go, ask your partner to just refuse to give you any more slack at a randomly selected point - eventually you will *have* to fall off!

Then go outside, place gear at ground level and swing on it - if it stays in, it will help convince you that you know how to place it, if it rips then you just land on your bum in a pile of sheep droppings rather than plunging screaming to an early death.

Failing that, climb with Chris Tan a lot, after which you will have trouble being scared of anything! :
 GrahamD 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

Bugger, isn't it ? I don't really know what the answer is - maybe a few controlled falls at a wall might help ? time on the rock ?
J2 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

Barra was using a gri gri, so it wud (usually) have locked even if he had not belayed u properly.

Do u really think an 10mm rope will snap with your weight? or anyones? Ill find you some test specs etc, but I remember a few people in here saying theve never heard of a rope snapping!
In reply to J2:

Hmm so general consensus is to practice falling and then just to be brave and go for it. Ok I'll give it a go.
In reply to GrahamD:

It's driving me mad as there are some routes I want to do that I know I can do if I would just be brave enough to go for a move.
Iain Ridgway 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: thats normal, leader never falls, kind iof limiting but safe way of climbing, a very good saying for mountain routes especially.
J2 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:


YES

Its TOP ROPING, so what will break?

Rail at top? dont be silly its very thick and tested
Rope? one half the diameter would hold you
Harness? again tested and your weight wont break it
Knot? - maybe, just tie in correctly
Belay setup - doubtful, just check there experienced and awake etc

You took a few falls last time and lived. You need to go high on the lead wall and take a reasonable fall sometime.
 Richard Horn 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

For me the key was not really to take practice lobs because these are always setup anyway so it doesnt really translate into the psychology of leading a climb. I used to be really scared of falling off (even on sports routes) but I think I am made a lot of progress simply by improving my focus. You are only scared of falling if you are thinking of falling. When you are in a position where you are getting worried about a fall, even if you are in a strenuous position try relaxing, take a deep breath and focus 100% on the next move, visualise yourself executing the move then just do it. Then as soon as that move is done, concentrate on the next etc. When I am on a climb doing moves that arent hard, I fill my concentration by singing to myself rather than lets my thoughts wander to falling, although I suppose everyone will have there own method for this.
 AG 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: Try reading this article, theres loads more on the same site, it helps
http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=200
Little Cub 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

I suffer exactly the same. Time, slowly pushing yourself a bit further, getting more confident about your gear placing and your general climbing skills and ability to adhere to the rock and have the strength to make/complete the move - and occasionally just having the guts to make a move anyway and finding out that you didn't fall off - works wonders for the confidence. Just don;t over-stretch yourself, work within your limits but try and push them a little at a time. And choose somewhere where the consequences of a fall aren't likely to be too horrific - nothing horrid to land on or pendulum onto or catch on the way down... Personally, though, I still prefer the old leader not falling bit.
chalkie 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: Sounds to me like you are lacking confidence in many areas of your climbing. Falling off is never an easy choice, but getting used to reversing moves so that you are closer to your last and hopefully well placed runner will help build up skills in decisison making. A very overlooked part of climing is trusting your partner, communication (verbal and non verbal)and commitment. In my view there is far too much focus on getting physicaly fit and very little to support growth in mental fitness. it may also be that the sport of climbing donsnt actualy suit you? I suggest that you approach your climbing via a sound understanding of climbing ethics (no more crap top roping routes)mixing your climbing areas and styles (trad and bolted) gettting to grips with your own demons through a critical analysis would be helpful. we have all suffered a crisis in confindence on different routes but it shouldnt dominate your thought processes.
If all eles fails there is always the possibilty of trying some other kind of sport.
 TN 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

Sounds odd but we have been bouldering a lot recently and that seems to have helped me. We lead for the first time in ages on Tuesday and I made moves on a route well above the clip that I wouldn't have dared make before I'd been bouldering. I don't know if it's the added confidence of being able to hold on to smaller/rubbish holds, or that when you're bouldering you hit the floor if you fall off - I don't know - but I certainly felt happier.
I don't like falling either - I've never taken a leader fall yet (I don't plan on doing so either) but I always make sure I am confident the gear I've placed is well placed and that keeps me going. (Until it pops out and slides down the rope - that's not a nice feeling!!) Got to keep going then though!
J2 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

problem solved, bigger rear so you bounce and not get hurt!
 The Bantam 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

Suggestions:

1) Do some big cliff abseil - you get the exposure and commitment, but with some more tangible security.
2) Practice falls - preferably with someone elses rope.
3) Lead something big but easy - easy enough so you don't think you'll fall, but big enough that you get use to doing the leading process in that environment.
4) Drink whiskey about half an hour before doing a route.
5) Go indoors and take a few big falls onto the bouldering crash mat.
 SidH 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:
This may sound like a really bad idea (and probably is) but...

I have sort of got over this problem by doing one or two routes which (unknown to me) were run-out before the crux, so that I ended above a large fall or even a deck-out possibility with hardish (ie at my leading limit) moves to do, and no possibility of down-climbing. I knew that I had to do the moves, so I did. Now I dont worry so much about going for it when leading, especially if the pro is good.

Si
 James Rowe 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

If a fall happens unexpeectedly (i.e. hold failing), I've never found it scary - its the anticipation of falling as you get more and more tired that really gets to me.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned here is trying to visualise completing the more you are anxious about - think how your body will move to be successful: what you are trying to do is override the 'behaviourally-reinforced instinctive fear' of heights (i.e. the fear of heights is a logical instinctive one, but one that should be in proportion to our skill in operating at those heights; you've negatively re-inforced that fear to make you beleive you cannot complete the move in question, and therefore are destined to fall off. Understand what you are actually capable of, and make your fear in proper proportion to your ability: training your head is as important as training your body).

Hope that's of some use.
There's lots of useful suggestions above (except the one about the half bottle of whisky!).
Above all, there's no substitute for experience.

James.
 GrahamD 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

Not wanting to fall is very common. I've bottled Strapiombante twice now despite having off loaded my rack in the crack below the crux.

Reluctance of falling is partially related to your confidence in your own ability to do the route on any particular day. Some days you just KNOW the route is going to go and falling just doesn't seem to be an issue.

The more time on rock and on the wall, the more you build up the confidence, I guess.
 The Pylon King 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

God i know what this is like.
I really am scared of falling off (even on a bloody rope!!!!)
I feel that it is a big obstacle now as ive been climbing about 6 years have led quite a few E3s and am steady at E1/2 and have only ever had one fall!
 IMA 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: join the club hehe, im scared and yet to take a fall apart from controlled on a top rope, but in those sticky moves wer u may i just focus on a simple statement

Pain is temporary But Failure is Permanent
 stow 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

Make it a rule to take one practice fall at every session you do at an indoor wall. I think you have to practice two kinds of falls. First, instead of clipping the chains, just count to three and jump. Second, and the more important practice, is just to decide to jump off somewhere on the route without thinking, planning, or deliberating -- just jump off. If you do one of these every session pretty soon falling will be casual. On trad the issues are more complex because it's sometimes hard to tell if your gear is A1 or A3. A good way to accelerate getting that experience level is to go to Millstone and aid up a bunch of routes. When you weight each piece you pretty quickly get a sense of what's bomber and what's not. Just some suggestions. For serious trad head issues you might read the Warriors Way -- some mumbo jumbo but a lot of good suggestions too.
 Wilbur 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

lead overhanging stuff indoors and jump off above the clip but a safe distance up. That way if you only practice falling on overhangs you won't hit anything when you fall
 jgoodwin2020 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:
i used to be like that. i pretty much got over it when i was at the wall when we were practicing falling. i refused to let go, the instructor made the rope more and more slack and then my foot slipped..... now im missing clips out clip here and there hopeing to get my daily fix of adrenalin (sp?) and pushing my limits on many routes outside (when i get the chance!!)

just dont think about it, the more you think about it the more scared you get. you need to take a fall sometime when you not expectin it. when you see that your fine you should start to get over it!
 jgoodwin2020 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Wilbur:

> lead overhanging stuff indoors and jump off above the clip but a safe distance up. That way if you only practice falling on overhangs you won't hit anything when you fall

... thats pretty much what i do! i find indoor climbing boring otherwise.

 Lbos 28 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: trust it, its good thing. don't do it if you don't think it feels odd on a route. practice on a bouldering wall- all the tenuous moves and get used to your boundaries- and translate it to routes when you feel ready.

Hope makes sense (lacking sleep and plentiful in booze)
porangi 29 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

No idea of your location but the climbing centre in Bristol do an excellent course in Air Traffic Control!!

The course comprises of building you to both taking bigs falls and catching them DYNAMICALLY. How many people here have fallen and slammed into the wall, rock or an arete because of the incompetence of their belayer.

Now many of the old boys/gals in here will probally think this is a waste of time. The advantages are that you (If you do it with a regular partner) gain alot of confidence in each other, falling and catching under controlled conditions.

The course is taught by national and international competition belayers and instructors who are very experienced in both indoor and outdoor climbing.

frostyone 29 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: Funny thing is I get more scared 2nding than leading! because I don't trust what the leader has set up at the belay station! odd? I am happy leading as long as i know I have good gear in. I think that's the secret! trust your gear! Good luck!!
 Simon 29 Oct 2004
In reply to Ron Manager:
> (In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement) Take a couple of lobs onto good gear,


I tried that but it just ended uo sticky & I had to wipe it off with a tissue.....
Ian 29 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

this worked for my buddies and I:
- place good gear by waist.
- lean back
- realise you're not hurt
- add slack and repeat

make sure the location you're at is not high, no exposure etc and you'll be fine

also, a more positive attutude might help "i'm cruising this and i'm not going to fall, so no worries " etc. then if and when you do fall you're like "where did that come from... oh and i'm not hurt"
 Simon 29 Oct 2004
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement)
>
> Not wanting to fall is very common. I've bottled Strapiombante twice now despite having off loaded my rack in the crack below the crux.
>


The crux is the last move fella, did you not even try for it??

I fell of trying the flash when I was 16 - just managed to get a freind in before I nearly decked!!

;0|


Si
 wizz walker 29 Oct 2004
In reply to Wingnut:
> (In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement)
> Try jumping off deliberately -
>
> Then go outside, place gear at ground level and swing on it - if it stays in, it will help convince you that you knowch you will have trouble being scared of anything! :

Think you pretty much said it all bud. Can`t think of a time I was more scared than my first fall onto my own pro with a second with whom I`d never taken a lob! Things have moved on since then, hope they do for anyone else. There is no guide like experiences survived!?
Aimee Dean 29 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

Have yu ever fallen and had someone hold it? Has gear ever not held when you've been using it?

alternatively, take up bpuldering. I never fall very far!
 IMA 30 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: decided to fall today (at awesome walls on an overhang) was quite fun, didnt warn my friend belaying just decided ah well my arms are tired here we go, i quite enjoyed it
 shaun walby 30 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:
Is it the thought of falling off when trad leading?
Are you afraid of falling of indoor climbing?

I think most climbers think twice about how good there gear is before a difficult move when trad leading, which is a world away from taking a fall indoors on bolts. This is IMHO, the skill/art of placing and TRUSTING gear is a vital hurdle to get over.

In my own experience when climbing below VS for (about 3 yrs) I didn’t worry too much about the gear I placed because I was climbing well within my abilities...the chances of having to rely on my gear were minimal.

As I got into VS4c this all changed and I had a hard time for about 8 months or so...there now was a real chance id be falling onto the gear and I didn’t like it that much. I wasn’t actually used to the reality of having to take a fall on gear that might rip.

There is but one solution...learns to trust your gear, this entails a fair few things.
placing it, carefully noting the quality rock your putting gear into, direction of force if loaded, potential for cams walking and rope movement displacing gear, rope drag to name but a few.


good luck
James Jackson 30 Oct 2004
In reply to J2:

A BMC (or might have been UIAA) Technical report a few years ago basically concluded 'Ropes don't break'. Even some very old samples the tested would still hold any leader fall.

Common sense caviats do apply - loaded rope + rubbing on sharp edge = ping, for example.
5.10 Ken 30 Oct 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:

> I have got a big fear of falling

Ditto!

I have very good perception of my own climbing ability, so the odd slip or misplaced foot/hand aside I rarely fall. Couple that up with placing good gear (where possible) and I'm generally quite happy. Which is nice.

I look at it like this - if I've placed gear I wouldn't be happy falling on then I'll make more of an effort to improve the situation until I am happy. I quite like living - it's cool!

Aimee Dean 31 Oct 2004
In reply to 5.10 Ken:

> I quite like living - it's cool!

There it was. The Ken-ism of the week!

:-D

J2 31 Oct 2004
In reply to shaun walby:

Was with CIAB few weeks back, the fear is indoors at the present, but am sure it doesnt stop there. Shes got a lot of ability and balance, I hope she can get over this and climb to a level she can!
 GrahamD 01 Nov 2004
In reply to Simon:

I know its the last move, I just got to the point where you have to cut loose and match hands on the top and ... woha ! scuttle back to the safety of the last runner - repeat until knackered. No rational reason for it all.
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement: When did fear of falling become stupid. Keep fearing you'll live longer.
moonboy 01 Nov 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:
it's all about mileage anni. keep climbing at a grade that suits. you'll lose the fear at some point (as the grade becomes easy for you more likely) and then step-up. eventually you'll fall in your own time.

i always feel a bit timid after a lay off but i just keep getting the mileage in at a grade i feel comfortable knowing that before long i'll be itching to go.
moonboy 01 Nov 2004
In reply to Charlotte in Anni's Basement:
confident climbing is about mileage, mileage, mileage

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