UKC

I was wondering how dyno's should be graded. Surely they can't get British Tech grades? And how do you decide on it's V grade?

I was toying with the idea of a new grade - a D grade - purely for dyno's, down at Lancaster Uni Wall, but it didn't really work, and there are already too many grading systems out there. How would it work - distance? angle? or just general difficulty?

Any suggestions?

In reply to Pete E: you cant grade them really how ever.
only roughly.
i dont think dyno's really start until 6a/b anyway.if they were much easier strong or tall people would just lock them

In reply to Pete E:

grading dynos is clearly not as hard as using apostrophes correctly.


just like any other problem.

In reply to Anonymous:

I found that grading problems isn't really that easy anyway, and with dyno's it's even harder, because they are all very different. Which system would you use?

In reply to Anonymous: I bet when you fart you can shatter glass.

In reply to Pete E:
I reckon another factor you need to take into acount is the hold you have to hold onto. if it is a big jug give an easy one but then slopers are a different matter.

In reply to Pete E:
I'd just say if 5c boulders can generally do it but 5b can't then it's 5c, easy really. I know this isn't gonna be too accurate but I didn't do any dynos for years and came back to them recently and found that I had definately improved so I think it pretty much correlates to the rest of your climbing grades.

In reply to Lbos:

nice

In reply to Lbos:

I really must remember that one!

In reply to Pete E:

The Dyno problems I've been on tend to be either graded on height of the climber (e.g. Hale Bopp, Font (I only looked at it! not that strong yet)) or are bloody awkward launches and catches (Castle Hill dynos like Rocketpants, and other V6ish jumps)

To grade indoor jumps, surely they are dependent on height and little else, unless ur setting start holds, just use standard V/Font grades, but don't say it's nails if it's just a long way, there is more technique than you think

P

In reply to Pete E:

why can't they get british tech grades that seems silly to me to say they can not be used ?

In reply to Pete E:

Yeah, but what do you call a Dyno? Is it a slap/lunge/jump? Or do both feet have to leave the ground? Is it graded for dwarves or giants etc.? Why not leave them all ungradable, like 'Deliverence' once was.

In reply to hugedyno:


I'd have thought that was a prerequisite for any climbing.

In reply to Anonymous:
LOL

for a true dyno both feet need to leave the hold, otherwise it's likely someone climbing harder will be able to do it staticly and then it's not a dyno is it ???

I've got a vauge memory of this being talked about in some magazines a while ago (maybe a Neil Gresham article?). I think there was agreement to base the name around minimum number of points of contact during the move, something like:

3 - it's a "snatch", you just need to get stronger/better
2 - it's a "slap", a bit of skill and balance needed
1 - it's a "pop", needs more skill and balance
0 - it's a "dyno" or "jump", need decent aim, body position and lots of power

and for mad Johnny Dawes type things I think you need in-flight corrections and maybe ILS too

In reply to Pete E:
We, my merry munchkins and me, have happily decided not to bother trying to grade dynos anymore. It is easier this way and people get enjoyment from hurling themselves up/across/down the problem without being put off by a big grade attached to it (cos the people that can actually do em will almost certainly attach a fairly high grade). I reckon a pointy hat is a pre-requisite though - tra-la-la-la-la!

In reply to adam carless:

Jason Myers article which was essentially a promotion for his duff method on Brad Pit...

Jason Myers: "You're only slapping due to a pathetic lack of strength"

The rest of the world a couple of years later: "You only dynoed Brad Pit due to a pathetic lack of technique".

Anyway, the terms were, in the same order as yours: Slap, Lunge, Jump, Dyno.

In reply to Fiend:

What the differance between jump and dyno?

In reply to FH:

One point of contact according to Mr Myers.

Ah, that sounds like it - the whole world seems to be proving they've got a better memory than me at the moment!


chortle. each to their own I suppose, from the sound of it no-one can doubt his dedication to the problem though!

I remember a similar issue with a new route on Malham:
John Dunne - "I've done a new route, It's very hard"
someone else - "no it isn't"
JD - "you do it then"
se - time passes, "ta daa"
JD - "oh, I didn't see/use that nice pocket there"
se - "you must be mad, it'd be very hard without that"

I'm sure names will be forthcoming from those who know more than I do.