UKC

Lofoten up to E1

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 RAK 02 Dec 2004
I've had a look through many of the previous threads about climbing in the Lofotens, and it seems like a great place. I've seen descriptions of some routes (e.g. Vestpillaren), but haven't yet got either Ed Webster's guide or the Rockfax miniguide.

My first question: is there lots of good climbing for someone like me? I lead VS comfortably and have done a dozen HVSs and a few E1s. My partner would be at a similar level.

Secondly, people also talk about Stetind (and Eidetind or something like that). I know these aren't part of the Lofotens, but as they're fairly close by, are they covered in Webster's guide?
 Nj 02 Dec 2004
In reply to RAK: Stetind/Eidetind are not in Websters guide, but there is a mini guide to Stetind.
There is a moderate amount at E1 or less, much more if you can do E2. There is very little developed over E3. It is a good place to push your grade cos it is so slabby, you never get pumped! The gear is pretty good as well.
If you go in the summer you will meet a lot of people up there who will give you tips...
Have fun.
 Jimmy D 02 Dec 2004
In reply to RAK:

Vestpillaren is a sensational route and although given E2 in the Rockfax guide I reckon it is within the reach of a fit, determined and experienced VS/HVS/E1 leader. It's so good that it would be well worth putting some effort into getting yourself ready to do it. I normally climb at a standard similar to yours but did lots of preparation for my Lofoten trip, did Vestpillaren and had a superb time. Let me know if you want more advice. As well Nj TobyA of this site is a good source of advice on Lofoten - do a search for previous threads.
 TobyA 02 Dec 2004
In reply to RAK: Jimmy D might forward you the email I sent him with my 'patented' how a VS-punter (like me) can climb Vestpillaren Direct. It isn't really an E2, its a safe but long E1 with attitude.

I climb at basically the same level as you and have had three excellent week long trips to Lofoten over the years. My instructions on how to climb Eidetind are somewhere in the archive. It is a stupendously brilliant easier route on an amazing mountain.
OP RAK 02 Dec 2004
In reply to Jimmy D:
This winter is the first time I'll have the chance to go to a wall regularly and so I should be in good shape next spring/summer, when I'm certainly hoping to become confident at HVS/regularly climb E1. I think TobyA said that most bits of Vestpillaren can be aided if necessary, so it seems like a superb climb to try even if there's some doubt as to whether we'd be able to lead it.
OP RAK 02 Dec 2004
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to RAK) Jimmy D might forward you the email I sent him with my 'patented' how a VS-punter (like me) can climb Vestpillaren Direct. It isn't really an E2, its a safe but long E1 with attitude.

If you could forward it JimmyD I'd appreciate it. Thanks
 Jimmy D 02 Dec 2004
In reply to RAK:

The very useful advice Toby gave me is here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=86595

To this I would add a recommendation to get plenty of mileage in on quarried grit routes before you go, if its convenient for you. This is good for getting good at corners, cracks and grooves (of which there are many on Lofoten) and all the laybacking, jamming and bridging that goes with them.

 Wil 02 Dec 2004
In reply to TobyA:
Any advice on flights - likely costs etc from Oslo...planning on being around Stetind for a week next yr.
Any money saving tips for such a trip much appreciated!
 TobyA 02 Dec 2004
In reply to Wil: Nope. I drove from home each time. And that's in Finland so not much help.

Ask TobyFK for the expensive route, or MattyK for the cheap way.
darkinbad 02 Dec 2004
In reply to Wil:

We flew from the UK in July for £325 Heathrow-Oslo-Bodo-Svolvaer (BA-Braathens-Wideroe). The Heathrow-Oslo leg accounted for about £95 of that. All connected very smoothly.
OP RAK 03 Dec 2004
In reply to TobyA:
How much have your paid for your trips? If I go next summer, it'll probably be by car from Finland. Petrol is easy enough to calculate, but if you live cheaply, how much do you think two people would spend over ten days or so?
 Wil 03 Dec 2004
In reply to darkinbad: Thanks - sounds affordable at least! Did you hire a car whilst there at all / costs? - I understand it is possible to camp close to Stetind but would like some mobility in case of poor weather...

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