UKC

these are great articles.

if you aint read em yet then i recommend you do.

he is a great climber and a very witty funny and intelligent writer.

E1 http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=106

E3 http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=104

E5 http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=105

In reply to a_radiohead_fan: Crap. Not an E0 in sight.

In reply to Richard Bradley:
well cant please all the folks all the time.

In reply to a_radiohead_fan: First time I've seen a photo tipped the wrong way! The E1 - Tippler being made to look less steep!

Also, Chequer's Buttress is no way E1 5b.

In reply to a_radiohead_fan: Chequers butress is standard HVS, never seen it given E1!

In reply to Swirly:

That's because you're 23 and, miracles of miracles, Chequers Buttress is actually a victim of downgrading....

In reply to Swirly:

oh yes, and dont' be a pompous tw@t

In reply to JonC: lol that showed me.

In reply to a_radiohead_fan:

You don't find the fact that he's clearly never been within five miles of Cloggy and that well-known E1 White Wall a little irritating?

jcm

In reply to Anonymous: I quote from the end of the E1 article -

'Shrike 5c, 5b

A proper mountain route ensuring a real feeling of 'having done something big' when you reach the top of this. Not exactly an outcrop crag. If it looks like rain, do this in preference to White Slab.'

He did, however, include The Arrow. Even I, a confirmed Pembroke aficionado, think this one pleasant enough but a bit overrated.

In reply to John2:

Yes, he had it right half the time. You would think he would have the number of pitches right to within a factor of 70% or so, though. And anyway White Slab finishes on top of the descent route fer fux sake. Even if they couldn't find that you'd think they could have managed to walk round the edge of the cwm and down the main track to where the Cloggy path turns off. It's hard to believe anyone could fail to find the bottom of the crag again.

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:
of course he has climbed at cloggy. if you read the articles he talks about his epic first E1 there. i myself have not (yet).

In reply to a_radiohead_fan:

If he did White Slab in 10 pitches it's no wonder he had an epic and finished in darkness!

In reply to a_radiohead_fan:

Quite. My point was actually he appears simply to have made up the story. His first E1 was 'White Wall' the way my first sexual encounter was with Jordan.

When you've done it come back and tell me I'm wrong.

jcm

In reply to Anonymous:
of course I've done the route and the tale is exactly true in every detail. Why would I make it up, it hardly makes me look cool!

In reply to Anonymous: you are really sad arn't you

In reply to chris d:

No - 'White Wall' is a good tale but clearly bullshit. Why not say so.

I also don't recognise the Pinch as having a pitch of over 45 metres, but hey who cares about the truth these days.