UKC

I'm a sucker for being influenced by advertisments, especially products that are endorsed by celebrities.

....and I need to buy a new pair of rock shoes.

There are two adverts in the climbing magazine each showing famous climbers and they are both climbing an E8 6c, one is wearing rock shoe A, the other rock shoe B.

Now if these two brands of rock shoes can get up an E8 6c they must be good enough for me. But which pair do I buy?

But hold on, the pro' climber wearing rock shoe A is 15 stone, the pro' climber wearing rock shoe B is only 9 stone. I'm 12 stone.....Mmmmmmm?

Just to compound my decision, the climber wearing rock shoe B does a lot of charity work for under-privilidged kids.

Which brand should I buy?

M

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

The ones that fit the best?

Or am I just too practical?

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

which one is this years "color"?

In reply to Ogre:
...and which will match yr kit best? and why do climbing shops never have those foot-height mirrors like proper shoe shops? i mean *really*...

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: The one that has the freebie trendy-logo-embellished quasi-'bar-towel' for rubbing them clean to reduce your personal erosion levels?

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

the one with the best video evidence that they are doing E8 6C.

Or you could just eat more pies and go for A

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:

Both? Come on. You know you can afford it. Think of all those under-privileged children.

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: I'd say A if it can support 15 stone and perform then fantastic. It should support you, and will also probably have a better coefficient of friction. Don't ask me I'll get shot down.

In reply to Graeme:

Reason I asked was there are two ad campaigns that caught my eye and I think both are very effective.

Big John and the Scarpa shoes.

.....and 5.10 and Chris Sharma...

I'm sure you are familiar with the Scarpa advert. The 5.10 advert showed Chris Sharma delivering food to unfortunate people in Bishop (no he didn't visit me) with the caption "What do you do on your rest days". Not sure how effective the latter was as the answer to most people would be - What the freak is a rest day - I work.

M

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA: Which Scarpa advert? there are many. Either that or I'm just not paying attention. But now you mention brands I would say five ten as they're slightly less agreesive on bending your foot, whereas personal experience with scarpa dominators leads me to believ that while they are a good shoe the performance isn't quite as good as the five ten. P.s. I have used both domianotr models, and both anasazi models extensively.

Yours a truly sad man

In reply to Mick - Rockfax USA:
Why not do a test for rockfax, that way you will get to test all the boots and then report back to us on the best.

In reply to sutty: No let me please, please, please. I'll even fluctuate my weight to test the coefficient of friction thing.

yours a truly desparate man with holes in his shoes and no money this month.

Alternatively I'll hang around waiting for Chris Sharma to pose for some more photos - then we'll see how generous he is.

In reply to purple_steve:
Holes in your shoes? surely you have heard of puncture outfits?
If you ever see any photos of Hugh Banner on the grit you will find that all his EBs had holes in, we used to patch them with old suede or pigskin gloves.
Get yourself onto the testing bench if you can write reports, all you have to do is not give too bad a report on gear from what I see.
How about approaching which and asking them to do a test on rock boots?