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Kipper 09 Feb 2005
The first issue just popped through the door (well 2 copies actually). Looks good, and shiny.

It also contains a letter furthering the 'great chockstone debate'.
 Tyler 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:

I was determined not buy it until I saw they were going to do a list of who's who in climbing. A list....about climbers....I'm going to have to buy it now
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:

surprisingly good i thought

some fluff wants binning.

the cartoon is ok as an occasional but shouldnt be a full page
the crossword is pointless
letters shouldnt be the first thing
scene is irritatingly chatty especially -you couldnt make it up- . stop trying to appeal to da yoof and write for grown ups.
gear alert had better stay as a single page

everything else was either good enough or very good i thought.

OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous:

Do they have decent gear reviews/Equipment notes type of stuff in it?

AJM
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous:

yes. the benny hill of british mountaineering is still doing his thing.

d hunter r+r


i was slightly uninspired by the alpinism whos who. proper researched articles over twelve months- one month on each climber would be better. not just interviews with the individual but a bit more background and proper digging into motivation etc could be really interesting. but nobody-s going to be arsed enough to do that...
Stark 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper: Like the new look, hope it works out and doesn't follow the demise of OTE and HIGH...I'll look out for it next month.

p.s. why a funny size?
epik 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous:
> the cartoon is ok as an occasional but shouldnt be a full page
> the crossword is pointless
> letters shouldnt be the first thing
> scene is irritatingly chatty especially -you couldnt make it up- . stop trying to appeal to da yoof and write for grown ups.
> gear alert had better stay as a single page

Sounds like you dislike all the parts that are directly from OTE - did you happen to be a High reader by any chance? As one of "da yoof" seemed ok though only came today so havent read it all yet. OTE with the odd alpine article and Andy KP writing gear reviews suits me down to the ground hope they keep it up!

p.s. is it me or is there about twice as many adverts in this mag to what there was in OTE or High?
Stark 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:
Are you Andy KP in disguise?
 Ridge 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:
> The first issue just popped through the door (well 2 copies actually). Looks good, and shiny.
Hooorah!
> It also contains a letter furthering the 'great chockstone debate'.
Oh Sweet Jesus, no...

OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:

alpinist man me.

d hunter r+r


but yes the ote bits are irritating

i don-t care whether the articles are about alpinism bouldering sport or whatever so long as theyre interesting and have depth. ote articles were generally light on content and uninspired
 Alan Stark 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Stark:

You're not me in disguise, thank goodness.
epik 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous:

Havent read alpinist since i got handed a copy at its launch so cant realy comment but back then it seemed top dollar. agree that OTE can be a little "shallow" at times especially their gear reviews but then most of the competition are not up to much either - naming no names!

Lots of pictures are what i want as normally get bored reading anyway, but some proper indepth gear articles and as someone mentioned more indepth article about climbers as from meeting/working with some of the guys on the scene at the mo there are many much more interesting stories to be told than ever make it to our press!
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:

true. jez portman-s insulation review in Climber is by far the best review -bar kirkpatricks- that theres been in a mag for ages.

if an articles interesting enough even da yoof will read 4 or 5 pages. pictures or not
epik 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous:

havent read that article so can't comment but Andy KP has done some good reviews/state of play articles in the past. problem is no one seems to go indepth in general. you see it on the gear forum how little people know about why things are done as they are with gear yet none of the mags explain anything about it. like why siliconised nylon cant be taped, why america uses PU backed fabrics on tents for example as many people seem to be fed incorrect facts about all this. when are mags going to tell it as it is (in an interesting way) - maybe they can start with how Gore "really works"! Although this would never happen as mags would soon loose their adverts if they started dispelling all those industry myths but a bit of common sense reviewing would be a refreshing change, some do this but the articles normally end up a bit boring with some exceptions as said above!
 Bob 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:

The "tex" membrane in Goretex is an osmotic membrane that relies on pressure differential to move water vapour from one side of the membrane to the other. Vapour particles move from the region with the higher pressure through the membrane to the lower pressure region.

This means that in order for Goretex (and similar membranes) to work there has to be a higher concentration of water vapour on the inside of the garment than on the outside. It also means that if the outside environment has a higher concentration of water vapour then some of that vapour moves to the inside of the garment - it leaks! Thus Goretex like membranes work best in cold dry climates where it is easy to raise the pressure between the garment and the wearer so that moisture is forced out. They work worst in warm humid climates where the moisture content of the environment is close to that inside the garment.

Now I wonder why they don't say that?!

Bob

PS. Apologies - I have forgotton what the correct term for the pressure part of this argument is.
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Bob:

Gore also relies on a pu filter tp remove body oils thus impeding breathability.
epik 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Bob:

My case proven in point, as i know how Gore Tex works but it seams you dont as that lovely explanation describes exactly how Gore explain it but they always neglect to explain how the PU layer on the inside of Gore works! the membrane is indeed a semi-permeable membrane (working on partial pressure or concentration of particules on any given side) but PU (put there to protect the membrane from sweat) however is not! so why does no-one ever explain that to people?

This is what i mean a reviewer that actually "asks" questions rather than believing the first leaflet the manufacturers put under their noses! i am not having a go as thats exactly what i would have said until i worked in the industry and gore never like to talk about it but event would soon help a magazine with the facts (slightly biased as they might be towards their fabric). Just be nice to read something other than marketing hype for a change and who fears the truth about these things?

p.s. gore are a easy example but there are many others out there!
 Bob 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:

Fair enough. The above actually was based on my O' level biology taken nearly 30 years ago! However I didn't know that there was a PU coating involved.

Having said all that, I only really use my Goretex jacket for walking the dog. Invariably in the hills I use some form of Pertex covered garment. When things are really wild I do use the Goretex but that is mainly because it is heavier duty base material.

Bob
Toby M 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous: d hunter r+r
good to see you get a mention, Dave
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Toby M:

Do I- where for gods sake
 Ridge 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:
> i know how Gore Tex works but it seams you dont

Very good!
Toby M 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous: in the article on this seasons Scottish Winter climbing, near the front (with the photo of Dave Mcleod in northern corries)
epik 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Bob:

no dig intended it was a pretty good explanation for 30 year old O'Level physics though it is technically concentration (some call it partial perssure) rather than pressure as if it was pressure your jacket would inflate which (i hope) it doesn't.

Anyway side tracking from the point i am just saying be nice to see some reviews asking why is that a good idea rather than just excepting that the designers are right. Speaking as a designer i know sometimes its easy to follow something that sounds a good idea on paper to realise its shite in practice and as annoying as it is to have people point out my mistakes (on many occasions) in the long run it can only make designers work harder and produce better products. i also know its easy with the gift of the gab to talk your way around mistakes and hide them and also know how suprising it is when reviews never pick up on them when they seem glaringly obvious! designers are normally atleast 2 or 3 people away from the consumer so maybe magazines should be a way of making them more accountable!
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Toby M:

ah yes- fame at last. now i can die happy.
epik 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to Toby M)
>
> ah yes- fame at last. now i can die happy.

you mean the fame of UKC wasnt enough for you?
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:

infamy shurely
epik 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to epik)
>
> infamy shurely

same thing isn't it! both have fame in the word so thats good enough for me
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:

back on thread:

they need to cut out the silly italic writing that appears on eg pages 85 and 88. it looks rubbish. stop playing with graphics and produce a finished product that doesn-t distract the eye from photos or text. its not as hideous as the worst excesses of the unlamented departed ote but get rid of it nonetheless.

are you listening mr pearsons...

d hunteer r+r
sloper 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous: don't tell me they have the same no hope / no ideas team at the new mag?

Well that's saved standing in WH SMiths for 5 minutes.
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to sloper:

looks the same editorial as ote at the top. griffin and parnell are covering the real climbing and kirkpatrick the gear. i-d take the five minutes to pweruse it its not bad at all really.

early days tho

regressing to my teaching days: climb has made a promising start but needs to concentrate on its presentation more and not be distracted too easily by the younger children. it shows much artistic potential and shows literary promise. it needs to work hard not to be too flowery artistically and needs to maintain and improve the standard of its writing

B- grade. A grade potential
 Tyler 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:

I hope to god they don't put all that stuff in about PU coatings and Gore Tex, it's dull as dish water, has nothing to do with climbing and will appeal to uber geeks only.

For Christ's sake of all the the things that were wrong with high and OTE and you end up complaining about the lack of in depth gear reviews, are you a geek or a climber?
 Bob 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Tyler:

I think what he is getting at is the fact that many reviews are little more than regurgitated sales spiel.

Bob
 Ridge 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Bob:
Surely not the reviews in 'Trail' magazine?
 Bob 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Ridge:

You might say that, I couldn't possibly comment!

Bob
 Si dH 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Bob:
I read somewhere that Climb was to be aimed more at the average climber. Is this the case?
I'd love to see some articles about places or routes that I might actually do (not beta you understand, jus tinspiing sories and photos). If you'd been there/done that, it'd be nice to reflect back on and compare your own experience, and if you hadn't it could inspire you to do so.
The way the current mags concentrate on hard routes and or far away locations means that most of these articles I can't relate to and find un-interesting, and in fact I find the routes section of Trail more inspiring than anyting I read in climbing mags, which is a real shame.
 Tyler 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Bob:

Fair comment, best just leave them out altogether, never read one yet that has been any use.


PS.

What do you have to do to get an argument around here these days?
 Tyler 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Si dH:

> The way the current mags concentrate on hard routes

<splutter>

Are you serious, magazines pander to the beginner far more than any other group.
 Bob 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Tyler:

Oh, the usual. Mention at least two of: bolts; gritstone; Scott Muir; JCT; top-roping.

Oh! B****r!!

Bob
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Tyler:

you dont read too good do you...

Im complaining about the lack of depth in the climbing articles not about the rather good kirkpatrick gear reviews.

argumentative enough for you tyler old bean

d hunter r+r
Liathac 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Bob: I just hope that sill cow is not writing at the back of it again : )

I would read Andy K's note for the milk man
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Liathac:

>
> I would read Andy K's note for the milk man


beautifully put. have you seen his -a chocolate river runs through it- simply the best presented and most wonderfully structured slide show ever.

Liathac 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous: As soon as you send me the free tickets AK
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Liathac:

not ak- its d hunter r+r
 TobyA 09 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:
> why america uses PU backed fabrics on tents for example as many people seem to be fed incorrect facts about all this.

Different fire-retardance standards.

Is there a prize if I'm right?
OP Anonymous 09 Feb 2005
In reply to TobyA:

tyhe prize is to be smug and self satisfied surely
epik 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Tyler:
> For Christ's sake of all the the things that were wrong with high and OTE and you end up complaining about the lack of in depth gear reviews, are you a geek or a climber?

a designer actually so guess that makes me closer to geek!

p.s. wasn't suggesting they are filled with facts just a little more factual reviewing rather than using copy and paste from the manufacturers website! not that anyone would do that!

p.p.s. happy to argue if you like how about we argue about? post-modernism in magazine cover design - white is the new black don't you know!

p.p.p.s there are never any prizes for knowing the answers!
Liathac 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous: ah hello Dave, we met in your shop prior to me going out to Rjukan. Have to admit while it was a million percent better than the UK it was a lot leaner than last year, but every day would have been OK but for the one day up in area A when we came across the guy with the Irish accent and his hoard of Brit climbers who couldnt climb, he had at least 5 top ropes up at one time with no one climbing whilst he explained the use of an ice screw
 Tyler 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Anonymous:

> argumentative enough for you tyler old bean

Thanks for trying but not really, it has that forced feeling about it. Can't you go and do a winter ascent of another classic rock climb in the Lakes? That sort of thing is always good for a tear up on here.



Liathac 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Tyler: I have considered a hoar frost acsent of Napes Needle but feel society would be better served by a fooking great brass ring embedded in the top of it. Maybe Mr Ryan can re live the old days and bolt it
Dave Hunter, Rock + Run 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Tyler:

If only, sadly conditions are lacking.

Having glanced at your profile, you seem to climb proper routes so we can't even argue about bolts or bloddering.
Andy Robinson 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Dave Hunter, Rock + Run:
> (In reply to Tyler)
>
> If only, sadly conditions are lacking.
>
> Having glanced at your profile, you seem to climb proper routes so we can't even argue about bolts or bloddering.

Ha! And Ha again!
You should ask him what he's done for the past 5 years, rather than back when 'e were a lad......
 kms 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:

cant wait to flick thru it in whsmiths
trolly 09 Feb 2005
In reply to kms: the new mag is shit. every other page is an advert. ill stick to climber in future, shame really as i loved on the edge
 kms 09 Feb 2005
In reply to trolly:

hence the fact that it will stay in the shop
trolly 09 Feb 2005
In reply to kms: fair play to you.
Dave Hunter, Rock + Run 09 Feb 2005
In reply to trolly:

26 pages of ads (including half pages but excluding small ads section).

36 pages including the small ads section.

out of 120 pages.

No adverts interrupting articles.

Most ads at the front (hence if you flick the first few pages you'd think there was a higher proportion of ads.

I don't think its too excessive and the ad are sensibly structured through the mag.
 Norrie Muir 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Dave Hunter, Rock + Run:
> out of 120 pages.

Dear Dave

When I find an old copy in a bothy, will it be better than my own toilet paper, or will I just use the mag for lighting the fire?

Norrie
Dave Hunter, Rock + Run 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Norrie Muir:

too shiny for toilet paper. Probably not too useful for lighting fires either, though I'm no expert.
 Simon 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:


On 1st appearance - dissappointed.

So much waste of space, the articles are smaller than the the page size & it results in large areas of "white space" thats unused. Couple that with the fact the font is quite small.

Why the space at the left of the text & on the top of the page Neil?

Examples:

Whose The New Whillans - an old OTE page size piece fitted leftwards onto a larger canvas.

Who wrote it? No idea - the Editor?

Who drew it. Well of course Duncan. Credit Duncan? ...

..well I can't see it?

The how to do eliteist boulder problems is still in a la OTE as is the Scene a la OTE.

It looks great & the Whillans article is great.

But £3.50 is a lot to pay for shed loads of white background and much as I admire Mark Vallence & hang on his coat tails when he tells a story, one of the great things about High & OTE was the last page.

High had a bouldering feature & OTE had its back passage for submissions......now its a day in the life of a famous bod don't we have enough "climbing media Whore" stuff to read about??

what was good about the back passage was that the common man could write in & give a personal view & it was always interesting.....

Im sorry for U Duncan Bourne - U did the work & have no credit. I've been there and its not right. .....new eara? me think not..

si




Kipper 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:

Pleased to see that (some) others have had a look at the mag. The size does seem a bit confusing; or is that just me?

And the letter about the chockstone just smacks of a childish attempt at 'I told you so' in an attempt to attract some interest.

But at least there's no really crap prose in the form of a back page (bra) filler.
 Simon 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Simon:

Oh & High Used to have Rock Notes on the latest climbing developments & OTE had the reports section....

..non of that.....!

;0)

si

PS its too big a format!
 Simon 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:

>
> But at least there's no really crap prose in the form of a back page (bra) filler.

 Simon 09 Feb 2005
In reply to Simon:

crap prose???

So when did U write for it then?

;0)
Kipper 10 Feb 2005
In reply to Simon:
>
> So when did U write for it then?
>
> ;0)

I'll make a submission for the 2nd (or later) edition. When did you?

 Simon 10 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:


What sorta stuff U submittin?

si
Kipper 10 Feb 2005
In reply to Simon:
>
> What sorta stuff U submittin?
>

A guide to VD and below within spitting distance of a pint.
 Simon 10 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper:


Sounds good!

Need any pics?

si
 Dave Garnett 10 Feb 2005
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to Bob)
> I read somewhere that Climb was to be aimed more at the average climber. Is this the case?


So is the new format similar but wider to reflect its maturing readership?
jubawix 10 Feb 2005
In reply to Si dH:
>> I read somewhere that Climb was to be aimed more at the average climber. Is this the case?

Oh shit, another boring mag about walking up mountains ala high

> I'd love to see some articles about places or routes that I might actually do (not beta you understand, jus tinspiing sories and photos). If you'd been there/done that, it'd be nice to reflect back on and compare your own experience, and if you hadn't it could inspire you to do so.

So would I and thats not just easy routes, hard routes can be inspiring too - if you get better, you can read about harder routes you've done and relate to them.

> The way the current mags concentrate on hard routes and or far away locations means that most of these articles I can't relate to and find un-interesting, and in fact I find the routes section of Trail more inspiring than anyting I read in climbing mags, which is a real shame.

Buy trail then and let climb or climber inspire better climbers too
epik 10 Feb 2005
In reply to Dave Hunter, Rock + Run:

Hi Dave,

On the subject of adverts a quick question about alpinist, as i said havent read it since the first copy but issue one has only got 8 adverts in and its 96 pages long. the publishers were certainly pushing it as being relatively free from adverts thus the $12.95 price tag, is it still the case or is it full of adverts now? Just out of interest!
OP Anonymous 10 Feb 2005
In reply to jubawix:
Do you regularly climb above about E6 or E7? I'd bet not - anbd therefore you're in the same boat as me and nearly everyone esle. By the average climber I would mean anyone leading anywhere from about S to E3/4 - ie. almost everyone.
Don't be so bloody pedantic.
 andi_e 10 Feb 2005
In reply to Kipper: they didn't seem to mention the actual name of the crag gaz parry boulders at in the scene. any clues?
And the Himalaya Bouldering is crap, it doesn't say things like "Johnny sent it, V9, dude Rad i flashed a sweet V7 arete crimpy dude sweet" which is the proper speak.
its ok, but OTE was better.
jubawix 10 Feb 2005
In reply to andi_e: Considering they had ages to put it together, it should have been a flagship issue, but it seemed just as average as an average issue of High pasted into an average issue of OTE with a few good bits and some crap. oh well, not exactly the saviour of our British mags.
 JonL 10 Feb 2005
In reply to epik:

Not at home so can't count them, but there are very few ads in Alpinist - can't tell much difference between 1 and 9. At least the articles are inspiring and reading between the lines you can pick up more about gear tips than from High or Climber (haven't looked at Climb yet, but dosen't sound good). Photos are still of the same high quality and portray more of the essence of climbing and why we do it (and sometimes wish we were somewhere else). IMO there are more quality articles in one issue than three issues of High (or equivalent) and it is therefore better value for money, even at the rrp. Got a subscription on their website and with postage works out at about £8 an issue.

I would be in favour of an equivalent, pricey but high quality, british (with some european?) rock/winter climbing mag. Bouldering and sport climbing (only being good for training, not resulting in inspiring outings or epiks, and being too individualistic) can just bug*er off and find a different home.
Dave Hunter, Rock + Run 10 Feb 2005
In reply to andi_e:

> its ok, but OTE was better.




ha ha ha ha ha.

OTE layout was awful. At least there's a refreshing lack of printing text over pictures in Climb.

OTE, in its latter days, was usually banal (to be kind), cluttered visually and irritating.

Climb isn't bad at all really imnsho. I hope it gets better but even if it just maintains the same standaed it'll be the best British mag (and better than Rock+Ice and Climbing too)
 Tyler 11 Feb 2005
In reply to andi_e:

> its ok, but OTE was better.

Is it really that bad?

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