UKC

Looking for a guide to Mallorca, which is better? The Cicerone 'ROCK CLIMBING IN MAJORCA, IBIZA & TENERIFE' as on Barrabes.com or the Rockfax mini guide?

Thanks

Tom

In reply to mr_sceptical:

http://www.chriscraggs.co.uk click on the Mallorca link.

Its a good book but I would say that wouldn't I!

Chris

In reply to mr_sceptical:

BOTH! I have found some stuff in the Rockfax effort that Chris hasn't covered, yet found the stuff that he did cover to be a better guide. So I took both guides, and used them both.

Check out www.rocaroja.com for up to date local info, including which locals are/are not banning access.

And there has been a rock fall at S'estret, I think it is, which has altered things a bit.

And contact John Hind (search for him on these forums) great local chap, will take you out, has all the gen, mad as a fish (so is his mate Adrian) but a great chap. Also can out you right with accommodation. I have been out there a few times, and know John.

Have a great time, please DO have a go at Sa Gubia Normal, I've wombled up the thing twice and loved it (and bear in mind that I am old, short and fat) but if you do, make the effort to get there at DAWN!

Let us know how you get on.

Best,

Sarah G

In reply to Chris Craggs: Ok.. thanks!

In reply to mr_sceptical:
Oh, and get the proper Mallorca guide, not the little miniguide. (dowload that as well).

In reply to Sarah G: Cheers, I'm not going 'til 18th April, (it was of an idea in the pub last Friday.. lets go to Mallorca!) So far have booked flights/car/insurance and got a 60m rope so all we need now is a guide and I reckon we are all set. Fortunately my climbing partners family have a villa out there, so we are sorted for accommodation. If anyone else has any route recommendations, of easy stuff this would be appreciated.

How good was the gear on Sa Gubia Normal, as Rockfax says ‘There is some old fixed gear but take a full rack with you as well’; we were planning on just taking a set of wires and a few tricams with us. Will this be sufficient. I reckon between 3 we would probably be able to fit a full rack in our luggage, but seems rather pointless if we will not need it? Also, did you do it on a single or half ropes? I’m guessing a single would suffice.

I guess not, but do you have any idea how the grading compares to say, Portland sports grading?

Many Thanks

Tom

In reply to mr_sceptical:
Gubia Normal: Lots of slings for threads (30-60cm) and half set of nuts would be sufficient.
Grades: I found them tough! Happy trying Portland 6b, struggling at 5c on mallorca.

In reply to Tom the tall: Thats good to know, will remember to start well within my grade. Won't bother with the rack then.

Many Thanks

Tom (The short)

In reply to mr_sceptical:

Hi, I'm the bloke SarahG is on about!

Some advice about grades, books and gear for you,

The Mallorca grades are hard compared to other places. Do not try to compare UK sport grades to Mallorca. A 6 in the UK is a 5 in Mallorca. Also be aware that lots of the climbs have odd bolt spacing and very high first bolts. This is because if the climb is say a 5 then the first 3 or 4 meters might not make the grade so no bolt. If you can climb at 5 then you don't need a bolt for the section that is only grade 4. You with me?
Take your time and tune in to the rock, once you get used to it don't be afraid to go for the moves and fall off a bit.

As for guide books, there is quite a difference between the new Rockfax and the old Chris Craggs. The grades differ wildly between the two, one climb at Creveta is graded 6b in Rockfax and 5+ in Chris's. I make no comment as to what I think it is. Also Chris's book has lots of forgotten places that Rockfax doesn't mention but Rockfax has several new places that are not in Chris's. My oppinion is get them both... If you get stuck you can always call me.

The gear you need is basic. 15 quickdraws, several slings, a few screw gates and a 60 meter rope. If you intend to do the SaGubia normal you might want a set of wires and hexes to feel safer. Try to bring a few mallions to leave behind on bolts if you don't make it to the top.

Most of all have fun.

You can mail me if you need any help, I am in Puerto Pollensa and yes we are all totaly insane to live here.

JH

BTW How you doing Sarah? XXX

In reply to JH: Thank you very much for your words of wisdom, much appreciated! We shall be staying near Puerto Pollensa, coincidentally. Our main aim is to have fun, and it sounds like we will, I will ensure we have both guides and maillons, this had crossed my mind previously, thanks for the reminder.

Many thanks for your help guys

Tom

In reply to mr_sceptical:
For Sa Gubia Normale, we did it on a single rope. Take Cris Cragg's advice on this one, and go 5m above one of the obvious pitches or you really will run out of rope! I did on the second ascent, and ended up with an interesting hanging belay with two stacked nuts and another one a bit further away. The bloody proper belay point was only 5m away!

It's a fantastic climb, though. Dead, dead easy, defintiely British V Diff. One nervy lead (for me) at possibly 4b/4c. Remember I'm a fat bumbly, though.

Having said all that, there is plenty of stuff to go at, just not quite so high and exposed, with bolts in place. You MUST do Creveta, possibly the nicest climbing on the Island.

Have fun, and do give John a shout.

By the way, John, I'm fine, I love my job, shame it's due to end in October! Hope to get out to you sometime. Currently being flirted with by some chap 21 years my junior, so either he's brain dead or I must still have a certain something. The former, I fear....

How's Margo?

Sxxxx

In reply to Sarah G: Thank you! again really appreciated advice.

Tom