UKC

Does anyone have one of these jackets? If so what do you think?

I'm considering getting one as they are heavily reduced in a local shop, and my TNF nuptse is getting very tired.

I'm looking for something that I can use as a light belay jackets, or spring/autumn camping parka, but also use for going to wear more casually as well.

I have a DAS parka for full on midwinter ice climbing use, so want something lighter than that. Obviously they weigh more than down jackets like the nuptse, but I like having a hood on coat which my old Nuptse lacks.

Any opinions gratefully received.

In reply to TobyA:

I've got one but haven't used it in anger yet. Taking it to Tibet in 3 weeks. It's like the Rab Photon Hoody but with a thicker/tougher shell and, for me, a trimmer cut - not so baggy around the waist. The latest models have a slightly different colour shoulder/upper section to the body as it is waterproof, the lower section only windproof & water resistant. I used the predecessor Cerro Torre, sans hood, in Antarctica and Alaska and it was a great jacket.

D

In reply to TobyA:

Where are they selling them Toby? Mail me if you don't want to post! What do you think of your Das parka? I so need a warmer jacket, sick of getting cold out at the crag!

J.

In reply to cubanallstar: The shop is in Helsinki where I live so probably not much help to you I'm afraid!

The DAS parka is excellent at what it is designed for - a full on over your goretex (or whatever) belay jacket. I've never used it temps above freezing, but having belayed mates at the bottom of still dripping icefalls I know that the outer material is water resistant and the insulation not too bothered by dampness - so for damp days at UK crags it would do the job, holding off drizzle etc. For a belay jacket whether for mountaineering or just UK cragging, I'd definitely look for something with a hood. My experience is that they make a huge difference even when not up as they still keep your neck and back of head warmer, something that wearing a beanie and then hoodless jacket doesn't necessarily do. I don't like detachable hoods, but that's better than nothing. Dedicated belay parkas (like the DAS) all tend to have the hood permanently attached. The downside of a DAS is that it is neither light nor small when packed. You need a reasonable amount of room in your rucsac to take it with you.

Ultimately, for what you say you want the jacket for, the question is how much money have you got? If you can afford one it will do the job brilliantly (I take it you've seen them on offer at R&R?) BUT you might find a feather-filled puffa jacket at Asda, BHS or TKmaxx - or even at a market - that will do almost as good a job for what you want it for for less than a quarter of the price. It was -17.5 when I left for work this morning and most people at the train station were wearing exactly the same kind of winter coats that you would buy in the UK from a dept. store or where ever. Most coats can keep you warm at those temps for some time - what you pay for is it to be light (or light-ish with the DAS), good material and cut that works for climbing etc. So its all a money/performance compromise.

In reply to Damo: Cheers Damo. I've told my missus that I'm doing a "feasibility study" on whether to buy one or not at the moment - this is really just psychological preparation so when I buy it, she just treats me with resigned exasperation: "ANOTHER jacket! How many do you need?!" rather than active anger.

In reply to TobyA:
Buy one!
I may not have bought one for the same reasons as you did, but when I was looking for one I was considering a duvet style jacket but didn't want the bulk. At the time I didnt do any winter stuff etc, but I wear the jacket all the time just kicking around town and to/from work, in Ratho, when outdoors hanging around. Cant say how it compares to the larger down jackets as I've never hand one, but I use mine all the time. Its last years so doesn't have those waterproof patches mentioned previously, which are a good addition as I got a bit wet in a short heavy downpour last year.
Often get asked in the office whether I'm cold if I leave it on for a bit after coming in from lunch (we are in the hottest office ever I think!) but it's just so comfy....

In reply to dcraig:
Oh, and they pack into their pocket as well if this year's is the same so can be thrown in a rucksack 'just in case'.

In reply to TobyA:

I've just got one to use as a belay jacket too. Just bumming around it seems to be much warmer than my Nuptse, probably beacause of the longer cut and the hood. Conditions willing I'll be using it next weekend up in Haggisland but I would suggest that if you can get it cheapish then go for it.

In reply to TobyA:


Just re-read your post... consider your 'research' completed and you can blame us all when you buy it. ;->
I've worn mine in and around the tent loads.
Oh, and to the pub. It also manages not to overheat you when you walk in from the cold to somewhere hot.

This is waay too many posts on tihs subject for me. Dont'cha just love monday mornings.

In reply to dcraig and SFM: cheers fellas. I better go an see if they still have one in the right size now!

Oh... I'm gonna be in big trouble.

In reply to TobyA: Just to weigh in also....I love mine. Wear it all the time at the crag and around town. It's very windproof and I don't worry too much about rain, stays decent looking after cycling through filthy Manc streets, and puts up with being thrutched up cold grit climbs (though not drunken falling into thorn bushes).

My optimus hoody was a bargain from Outside at 69quid.

In reply to Stig:
>(though not drunken falling into thorn bushes).

Oh yeh forgot to say it doesn't cope very well with sharp unfinished shelf edges either...especially when leaning into your junk cupboard, post-pub at 1am to switch your heating on, stretching to reach the stupidly positioned boiler at floor level, at the back.......

I have a wee strand of primaloft that sticks out to say hello, but it was a tiny hole that appeared.