UKC

Has anyone climbed one of the 4 summits on the mountain Huandoy in Peru? It is next to Pisco in the Cordillera Blanca. We are considering the South summit via the icefall, and up from the basin in between the West and North peaks to the south summit.

Just wondering if anyone has climbed into the basin from the icefall and what access to the South summit is like from the basin itself? Apparently its a long not too steep slope from the basin to the top of the South Summit. The route starts at the same places as the SW ridge on Pisco then goes up through the icefall, whereas the pisco route goes right to the SW ridge.

Has anyone done it?

Regards,
Scott.

In reply to Scott_M@c: No but I did see a huge serac fall down the middle of the icefall. I thought it might be safer to do Huandoy Norte via the gully to the right of it(looking from the pisco refuge). This would not give you the option of caming in the basin and doing the other peaks tho.

In reply to HP:

Wow! Bet it was an amazing view? I saw that route up to the right avoiding the icefall - it looks good but your correct about not having the option of peaks from the basin. I'm a tad worried about the icefall, it looks a bit dodgy. Will have to consider it a bit more. I've looked into the route a bit more online, and it does seem to be an okayish slope to the Sud summit. Cheers for the reply.

In reply to Scott_M@c: Yeah it was pretty dramatic - difficult to get a sense of scale when looking out accross there. I couldn't work out if it would take 2 or 5 hours to get up to the basin. On the plus side, the serac fall was in the evening - when seracs are meant to fall - and it was always pretty quiet in the mornings (I was up there 3 times over a 3-month period). Another option is the North face from the dam on the Paron side - this looks great in Brad Johnston book but last year was not very white when I looked at it.