UKC

I'm trying to put together a list of European/USA alpine routes to do. I'd like to tap into the wealth of experience out there to offer advice. A little history - ageing rock jock, have experience of big multi pitch routes and some winter climbing experience up to Grade IV. I have two young kids so would like to get back alive and time is also precious so short term objectives are paramount. My wish would be to experience a variety of alpine routes, so summits, mixed, winter and rock are all on the list. I have Richard Goedeke's book, Piolas guide and am looking out for a copy of Rebuffat. But your suggestions for further research would be greatly recieved. I know I'm going to get completely slated by my sad mates who have nothing better to do than waste thier employers time constantly attached to this forum, but hey, that's a price worth paying for first hand info. Thanks for your help.

In reply to Dave Sarkar:

Midi plan in chamonix but bivvy beforehand, start on hour before the 1st cable car and descend to the requin hut to avoid all the crowds.

On rock in chamonix I really liked the S ridge of the chapelle la gliere. It clears quickly after bad weather and is a classic at S/HS

Also the traverse of weissmies is a nice acclimatiation route in saas fee valley before doing a bigger classic like the N face on the lenzspitze

In reply to Dave Sarkar:
why limit yourself to Europe/USA ?
South America is cool, great with kids as well, they can come and then you depart for climbing before catching up with them for family fun

always wanted to go to Killi to see the snow - guess not much time for that - if your kids are old enough take them up it as well, if not they go on safari while you take 6 days out before catching them up

egypt and morocco have good areas, for cragging and multi pitch stuff, or even walking peaks that would also do for family holidays

depending on age of your kids Russia is an AWESOME place to go, you can take soem time out to blast up a hill or two for a few days within the bog standard 14 day family holiday

India with kids is VERY do-able as well

In reply to Dave Sarkar: Mt Blanc Range:
Rock: Grand Capucin, Bonatti Route (free if you can)
Warm up on any of the classics from the Envers hut (George V etc)
Ice: Mt Blanc du Tacul, Mordica Nory, Super Couloir
Mixed: (Winter) North Face of the Courtes, Swiss Route

Bregalia:
Rock: Piz Badille, Cassin Route

Classic mid grade stuff.

Go for it!

In reply to Dave Sarkar:

European top ten for a man of your experience.....

Rock….
1 Salbitschjen West Ridge
2 Brandler Hasse on Cima Grand (or comici if you fancy an easy day)
3 American Direct
Mixed...... ish
4 Walker Spur
5 Zmutt Ridge
6 Dru Couloir
Ice….
7 Lenzspitze N face
8 Super Couloir (Tacul)
9 Doites N Face
Bit of everything…
10 Peutery Integral