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Does anyone else think that the new Climb magazine is just a re-hashed version of High with better pictures? It seems to be 90% mountaineering and 10% rock climbing. I'm not a mountaineer because of a lack of time, money and very little interest. What I do have time, money and interest in is rock climbing, primarily in the UK. I would have thought that most UK climbers would spend most of their time rock climbing in the UK, and very little time attempting alpine ascents in other parts of the world. I always used to buy On The Edge because it was the only magazine that truly focused on rock climbing, and presented it in a way that reflected my experience of it, i.e. fun and exciting. Does anyone else find Climb magazine boring and irrelevant to their climbing experience. Bring back On The Edge!
In reply to David Ballantyne:
I guess it's horses for courses. I find the new climb better than High and definitely far superior to OTE. I only tend to "rock climb" for training and as
a stepping stone to bigger and more exciting things, so the old OTE fixation on shorter harder routes and bouldering <spit> was of no interest to me.
> Does anyone else think that the new Climb magazine is just a re-hashed version of High with better pictures? It seems to be 90% mountaineering and 10% rock climbing. I'm not a mountaineer because of a lack of time, money and very little interest. What I do have time, money and interest in is rock climbing, primarily in the UK. I would have thought that most UK climbers would spend most of their time rock climbing in the UK, and very little time attempting alpine ascents in other parts of the world. I always used to buy On The Edge because it was the only magazine that truly focused on rock climbing, and presented it in a way that reflected my experience of it, i.e. fun and exciting. Does anyone else find Climb magazine boring and irrelevant to their climbing experience. Bring back On The Edge!
I guess it's horses for courses. I find the new climb better than High and definitely far superior to OTE. I only tend to "rock climb" for training and as
a stepping stone to bigger and more exciting things, so the old OTE fixation on shorter harder routes and bouldering <spit> was of no interest to me.
In reply to David Ballantyne:
Not read the new mag (which probably disqualifies me from commenting properly) but the previous 2 incarnations of these mags were too parochial and specific so I stopped buying them. High was as rivetting as a phone book, and I don't give a schidt about Sheffield so missed the 'importance' of OTE to my life.
Not read the new mag (which probably disqualifies me from commenting properly) but the previous 2 incarnations of these mags were too parochial and specific so I stopped buying them. High was as rivetting as a phone book, and I don't give a schidt about Sheffield so missed the 'importance' of OTE to my life.
In reply to David Ballantyne: What I want from a magazine is inspiration and good journalism. I'm unlikely to be new-routing ED4s in the greater ranges, but I find reading a proper article about it intersting. On the otherhand I find 'crag guides' very dull and rarely read the new-routes news. As the other poster said, it's horses for courses, I found ote very samey and arrogant in its tone towards low-grade, and non-Peak climbing.
In reply to David Ballantyne:
I agree with timjones. I think the new mag is better than both High and OTE. But then I regard myself more as a mountaineer than a climber.
I agree with timjones. I think the new mag is better than both High and OTE. But then I regard myself more as a mountaineer than a climber.
In reply to David Ballantyne: Too much mountaineering? I don't understand, what does this phrase mean, there can never be too much mountaineering, only too much grit
In reply to David Ballantyne:
I used to buy Climber and now I buy Climb, so it must be doing something right. I like to read about stuff which I can relate to and its true that means more UK stuff, or at least alpine stuff, than things off in China. I think their photos are great though, and its definitely best to have a balance. I really liked the article about Left Edge (I think?) in the issue before last, more artiocles about particular (do-able) rouets like thta would be great, theyre very inspiring. Like the Arapiles article this issue but would be even better if it was about somewhere I had a chance to go to. The lanc article was a bit crap, could have been in much more detail.
I used to buy Climber and now I buy Climb, so it must be doing something right. I like to read about stuff which I can relate to and its true that means more UK stuff, or at least alpine stuff, than things off in China. I think their photos are great though, and its definitely best to have a balance. I really liked the article about Left Edge (I think?) in the issue before last, more artiocles about particular (do-able) rouets like thta would be great, theyre very inspiring. Like the Arapiles article this issue but would be even better if it was about somewhere I had a chance to go to. The lanc article was a bit crap, could have been in much more detail.
In reply to MattG:
With the average crag in England being about 10 feet high I would have thought mountain routes would be most welcome.
With the average crag in England being about 10 feet high I would have thought mountain routes would be most welcome.
In reply to David Ballantyne:
I've never read it as they wrap it up in plastic and I'd like to have a chance to browse before shelling out for it. When I saw that their competition was to win a bouldering trip to the Himalayas I came to the conclusion it probably wasn't aimed at me (I can think of better things to do in the Himalayas than bouldering)
I've never read it as they wrap it up in plastic and I'd like to have a chance to browse before shelling out for it. When I saw that their competition was to win a bouldering trip to the Himalayas I came to the conclusion it probably wasn't aimed at me (I can think of better things to do in the Himalayas than bouldering)
In reply to David Ballantyne:
quite the opposite for me, I find magazines that solely concentrate on rock climbing slightly dull. The Mountaineering sections are always the first place I turn to, but then that is my personal preference over rocking climbing anyway.
Each to their own I suppose
quite the opposite for me, I find magazines that solely concentrate on rock climbing slightly dull. The Mountaineering sections are always the first place I turn to, but then that is my personal preference over rocking climbing anyway.
Each to their own I suppose
In reply to David Ballantyne: Personally I really like Climb. It seams to have a good mix of all forms of climbing, good advise and covers a wide range of areas in the UK. As for the greater ranges, I haven't been yet, but it is inspiring me to do so.
In reply to I am the God of Stratheyre:
I think the Sheffieldcentric nature of OTE was all a bit of a myth actually. Having just rumaged through my old copies I have failed to spot any Peak bias at all
> I don't give a schidt about Sheffield so missed the 'importance' of OTE to my life.
I think the Sheffieldcentric nature of OTE was all a bit of a myth actually. Having just rumaged through my old copies I have failed to spot any Peak bias at all
In reply to Duncan Bourne:
I think living near the Peak might make it hard for you to judge. Every time I looked at OTE it seemed very Peak-centric, and of very little interest to me at all.
> I think the Sheffieldcentric nature of OTE was all a bit of a myth actually.
I think living near the Peak might make it hard for you to judge. Every time I looked at OTE it seemed very Peak-centric, and of very little interest to me at all.
In reply to Stefan Lloyd:
grabbed at random off the shelf OTE 111
Haston on Cracks (USA)
Lundy
Font
China
Bishop Bouldering
Peak only mentioned in the reports section
Hmm let's try another eyes shut grab...OTE98
Berryhead
Zenyatta Mondatta
Pembroke
Scotland
N Wales
Corsica
Ilkley
Culm Coast
There are certainly articles on the Peak (well it is a major climbing area) but the above were picked at random and didn't have any Peak articles in them that I could see
grabbed at random off the shelf OTE 111
Haston on Cracks (USA)
Lundy
Font
China
Bishop Bouldering
Peak only mentioned in the reports section
Hmm let's try another eyes shut grab...OTE98
Berryhead
Zenyatta Mondatta
Pembroke
Scotland
N Wales
Corsica
Ilkley
Culm Coast
There are certainly articles on the Peak (well it is a major climbing area) but the above were picked at random and didn't have any Peak articles in them that I could see
In reply to David Ballantyne:
What I really can't understand, is given the so-called boom in popularity for Bouldering there's no dedicated monthly mag (I've heard of the mythical 'Friction' but not seen it in the newsagents).
You can go on as much as you want about 'Grit' and 'The Peak', but population-wise, the catchment-area is massive for weekend-warriors with limited time. OTE catered for the market pretty well IMHO (I personally begrudged the non-Grit coverage about overseas climbing etc.).
I think 'Climb' best suits those who sit and imagine themselves doing stuff, rather than myself whose aspirations are less lofty but more practical.
H.D.
What I really can't understand, is given the so-called boom in popularity for Bouldering there's no dedicated monthly mag (I've heard of the mythical 'Friction' but not seen it in the newsagents).
You can go on as much as you want about 'Grit' and 'The Peak', but population-wise, the catchment-area is massive for weekend-warriors with limited time. OTE catered for the market pretty well IMHO (I personally begrudged the non-Grit coverage about overseas climbing etc.).
I think 'Climb' best suits those who sit and imagine themselves doing stuff, rather than myself whose aspirations are less lofty but more practical.
H.D.
In reply to Duncan Bourne: That's just places. What about stuff on or by Peak-based climbers? It always seemed a bit "Hello Magazine".
In reply to hugedyno:
>> I think 'Climb' best suits those who sit and imagine themselves doing stuff, rather than myself whose aspirations are less lofty but more practical.
Rubbish! Let your imagination wander and with a bit of determination anything is possible these days. If you stick with small dreams you'll never achieve your true potential.
I'm sure I'm not the only mountaineer who can manage to climb in this country and dream of bigger and better things at the same time. Some of the smaller dreams have already been fulfilled, the bigger ones make the future seem a bright and exciting prospect.
>> I think 'Climb' best suits those who sit and imagine themselves doing stuff, rather than myself whose aspirations are less lofty but more practical.
Rubbish! Let your imagination wander and with a bit of determination anything is possible these days. If you stick with small dreams you'll never achieve your true potential.
I'm sure I'm not the only mountaineer who can manage to climb in this country and dream of bigger and better things at the same time. Some of the smaller dreams have already been fulfilled, the bigger ones make the future seem a bright and exciting prospect.
In reply to David Ballantyne:
Just cancelled my subscription to CLIMB...Have no interest in looking at whos done what in the Andes..etc.Climber is a little better but what has happened to UK mags!!
Guppy
Just cancelled my subscription to CLIMB...Have no interest in looking at whos done what in the Andes..etc.Climber is a little better but what has happened to UK mags!!
Guppy
In reply to Stefan Lloyd:
Again I see no particular biase. It is my experience that ANY magazine will have a number of contributors who are close to the magazines publishing base but there are plenty of non-Sheff based contributors.
I think the big problem with any specialist magazine is coming up with something that hasn't already been done before. You can please all of the people all of the time
Again I see no particular biase. It is my experience that ANY magazine will have a number of contributors who are close to the magazines publishing base but there are plenty of non-Sheff based contributors.
I think the big problem with any specialist magazine is coming up with something that hasn't already been done before. You can please all of the people all of the time
In reply to hugedyno:
Friction magazine has its own web site here http://www.frictionclimbingmagazine.com/
> (In reply to David Ballantyne)
>
> What I really can't understand, is given the so-called boom in popularity for Bouldering there's no dedicated monthly mag (I've heard of the mythical 'Friction' but not seen it in the newsagents).
>
> What I really can't understand, is given the so-called boom in popularity for Bouldering there's no dedicated monthly mag (I've heard of the mythical 'Friction' but not seen it in the newsagents).
Friction magazine has its own web site here http://www.frictionclimbingmagazine.com/
In reply to David Ballantyne:
God, you must be glad you don't subscrive to Trail anymore!
What a pile of wank that is!Deffo cancelling my subscrption.
God, you must be glad you don't subscrive to Trail anymore!
What a pile of wank that is!Deffo cancelling my subscrption.
In reply to David Ballantyne:
>Does anyone else think that the new Climb magazine is just a re-hashed version of High with better pictures?
No Idea, only seen the second copy as they do not seem to be in the newsagents in harrogate. Even ordered it never turned up so given up on it.
>Does anyone else think that the new Climb magazine is just a re-hashed version of High with better pictures?
No Idea, only seen the second copy as they do not seem to be in the newsagents in harrogate. Even ordered it never turned up so given up on it.
In reply to David Ballantyne: I would purchase the damn mag and read any tit bit related to climbing if I could find it on sale!, ok not bouldering, though I have bouldered, its hard not to with Widdop just up the road. Sunny evening and nobody for a partner, thats my excuse.
On the Edge was probably too near the sharp end as its title suggests to actually relate to a fat duffer like myself, didnt mind any of the the three mags unless they went off into a bouldering "wankfest" as one of them did a few short months ago. I mean, its ok to do it but to read about somebody doing it? Jeez that does make one glaze over!
I wonder if only the people who take part in bouldering competitions actualy read the article on bouldering competitions? and why does that lad from Blackburn always get pictured even though he never comes first?
Anything with Andy Kirkpatrick in it got read or Mick Fowler. Have any of these guys written a book yet?
Books are better
On the Edge was probably too near the sharp end as its title suggests to actually relate to a fat duffer like myself, didnt mind any of the the three mags unless they went off into a bouldering "wankfest" as one of them did a few short months ago. I mean, its ok to do it but to read about somebody doing it? Jeez that does make one glaze over!
I wonder if only the people who take part in bouldering competitions actualy read the article on bouldering competitions? and why does that lad from Blackburn always get pictured even though he never comes first?
Anything with Andy Kirkpatrick in it got read or Mick Fowler. Have any of these guys written a book yet?
Books are better
In reply to Liathac:
The real final straw I had with OTE was an article where the author went into great detail about the exact minute genres of dance music the various local tribes used when out bouldering. I read that you could identify X massif in action because they would be blasting out hard progressive trance or summat, and I just cringed. Not good.
The real final straw I had with OTE was an article where the author went into great detail about the exact minute genres of dance music the various local tribes used when out bouldering. I read that you could identify X massif in action because they would be blasting out hard progressive trance or summat, and I just cringed. Not good.
In reply to I am the God of Stratheyre:
what is it with people today who seem to need a soundtrack to their whole lives. Climbing to music? why dont they take up ballet.
what is it with people today who seem to need a soundtrack to their whole lives. Climbing to music? why dont they take up ballet.
In reply to Liathac:
No, it's got to be Hungarian bleep core jungle if you're serious about climbing. Safe.
> hard progressive trance
No, it's got to be Hungarian bleep core jungle if you're serious about climbing. Safe.
In reply to I am the God of Stratheyre: Not Bob dylan then? or the Ramones?
In reply to hugedyno: Friction isn't just bouldering. Available at most walls and on the net?
In reply to Steve Crowe: I note that Climb magazine is no longer publishing local climbing reports. Pity, I always used to find it interesting to read about who was doing what. What better way to make a climbing magazine relevant to most people than to publish reports on local developments! Nevermind, still got ClimbOnline to look at.
In reply to David Ballantyne: I haven't seen Climb in the shops!
Buy Climber.
Buy Climber.
In reply to David Ballantyne:
I think most people's concern was that Climb would become just too much like OTE. Perhaps the editorial team took note and swung the other way?!
I am not decided yet whether I like it or not. To my mind it has quite a variety yet I don't find that much which is interesting. Not enough about pure UK rock climbing maybe.
I think most people's concern was that Climb would become just too much like OTE. Perhaps the editorial team took note and swung the other way?!
I am not decided yet whether I like it or not. To my mind it has quite a variety yet I don't find that much which is interesting. Not enough about pure UK rock climbing maybe.
In reply to David Ballantyne: what excatly happened to OTE it got it a couple of times loved it then it stopped no i get climb, not as good though
In reply to mac_climb: OTE and High Mountain Sport were amalgamated into one magazine, Climb.
In reply to Liathac:
Mick Fowler's first autobiography 'Vertical Pleasures' was published in 1995
His second instalment of autobiography 'On Thin Ice' will be published in about a month's time by Baton Wicks.
Since 2nd hand hardback copies of 'Vertical Pleasures' now going for as much as £100, it might be worth stocking up as an investment... (Mick's probably planning to fill a warehouse himself I shouldn't wonder)
> Anything with Andy Kirkpatrick in it got read or Mick Fowler. Have any of these guys written a book yet?
>
> Books are better
>
> Books are better
Mick Fowler's first autobiography 'Vertical Pleasures' was published in 1995
His second instalment of autobiography 'On Thin Ice' will be published in about a month's time by Baton Wicks.
Since 2nd hand hardback copies of 'Vertical Pleasures' now going for as much as £100, it might be worth stocking up as an investment... (Mick's probably planning to fill a warehouse himself I shouldn't wonder)
In reply to nonymous: Vertical Pleasure is an amazing book. He said smugly knowing that even though he can't find his copy he only paid a tenner for it 5 years or so ago.
In reply to nonymous: cheers for that, maybe I could swap my Whymper Scrambles amongst the Alps original
In reply to nonymous:
Will he declare it to the Inland Revenue?
> (In reply to Liathac)
>
> [...]
>
> (Mick's probably planning to fill a warehouse himself I shouldn't wonder)
>
> [...]
>
> (Mick's probably planning to fill a warehouse himself I shouldn't wonder)
Will he declare it to the Inland Revenue?
In reply to Original Poster:
Just the right amount of mountaineering. Not too much outcrop clambering. Not too much plastic/competition clambering.
Thanks,
Y
Just the right amount of mountaineering. Not too much outcrop clambering. Not too much plastic/competition clambering.
Thanks,
Y
In reply to hugedyno:
> (In reply to David Ballantyne)
>
> What I really can't understand, is given the so-called boom in popularity for Bouldering there's no dedicated monthly mag (I've heard of the mythical 'Friction' but not seen it in the newsagents).
>
Bouldering monthly? Fun to do but I couldn't imagine reading a dedicated magasine. Too narrow a field. It might be featured on Have I Got News for You though
>
> What I really can't understand, is given the so-called boom in popularity for Bouldering there's no dedicated monthly mag (I've heard of the mythical 'Friction' but not seen it in the newsagents).
>
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