UKC

quickdraw lengths

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segfbdsg 06 Jun 2005
how long should quickdraws be?
seems like theres a choice of 10cm , 15cm or 20cm.
what are the advantages/disadvantages of each one?
 Marcus B 06 Jun 2005
In reply to segfbdsg: use longer ones to avoid rope friction on bendy routes. Doesn't really matter which you have though.
Although some say size matters......
 Dominion 06 Jun 2005
In reply to segfbdsg:

For Sport or Trad?

Longer ones are likely to be more useful in terms of reducing route drag on a wandering Trad route...
In reply to segfbdsg:

Short rigidy type extenders will more likely pull marginal gear out than long floppy ones. Psychologically though, short ones seem more reassuring!
 r0b 06 Jun 2005
In reply to segfbdsg:

For most trad climbing I would say don't use anything shorter than 20cm, otherwise you're likely to get lots of drag and have wires falling out all the time. Personally I use three 20cm, three 30cm and three 60cm (carried tripled) all in lightweight dyneema. The only situation where I would use a 10cm or 15cm draw on a trad route would be for a low piece of gear on a route with a tricky start.
 sutty 06 Jun 2005
In reply to r0b:

Sounds about right, not too short for trad and the difference for clipups will be negligible.

 Rob Naylor 06 Jun 2005
In reply to r0b:

I carry exactly the same, except mine are in furry old nylon!
OP Anonymous 07 Jun 2005
In reply to segfbdsg: it's not a bad idea to use a locker on the first bolt of sport routes

p4w
James G 07 Jun 2005
In reply to segfbdsg:

For trad I carry 1x20cm, 2x60cm (tripled) and lots of 30cm.

James G
 Si dH 07 Jun 2005
In reply to segfbdsg:
I have 6x10cm, 2x20cm and 4x60cm. I generally use the 10cm ones where rope drag isn't an issue and almost always for the firts bit of gear if its near the ground. The 4x60s are carried tripled and so I can use them as 15 cm (thats about the length they come to) if I want, but I use them more as 60s whenever Im worrried about rope drag. The 20s dont get used much. One of them has a revolver on it so sometimes Ill use that to combat rope drag or a dodgy piece. Most rouets I obviously wont carry 12 draws up, and it tends to be the 10cm ones that lose out, so on a norma lroute Id have 4x60cm, 1 or 2x20cm and maybe 3x10cm, depending on how long the route is and its nature.

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