UKC

Ice Screw

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SJD 08 Jun 2005
Hi, i am off for my first season in the alps in July and i have been told to acquire an ice screw... WHich length is best. I am eering to an medium length as it will hopefully be short enough to cut flush into the ice and long enough to hold my fat arse. Any pearls?
pagoda 08 Jun 2005
In reply to SJD: Do you really?
 JLS 08 Jun 2005
In reply to SJD:

22cm Black Diamond turbo express. In July I'd think the only ice you'll find will be on glaciers and hence considerably thicker than 22cm...
SJD 08 Jun 2005
In reply to JLS: Cheers, as i am only buying one i wanted to be able to use it in Scotland too. (just spent a fortune and mr not-so-friendly-any-more bank manager may not let me buy more than one!)
 Martin W 08 Jun 2005
In reply to SJD: You have a few months yet to save up for another ice screw more suitable for Scottish conditions.
 JLS 08 Jun 2005
In reply to SJD:

From my limited Scottish winter experience, I'd say you'll either need ten screws or none!

(One or two of those ten being 22cm)
 MG83 09 Jun 2005
In reply to SJD: I'm assuming this is for a Conville course then! I'd probably go for a 16-19cm screw (medium-ish length) because that'll hold a static load fine during crevasse rescue and it'll also be more useful than a 22cm screw in Scotland IMHO. The major advantage of the longer screw would be in constructing Abalakov threads for abseil although I'm not sure Conville courses cover this. Do the course organisers not give you any advice regarding gear?

As for the brand, I use a mix of BD Turbos and DMM Revloutions - there's not a lot in it to be honest apart from the fact that the BDs bite a bit better to start with. I think Needlesports are doing Mountain Technology screws for £25 each at the moment, might be worth a look...

Hope this helps.
SJD 10 Jun 2005
In reply to MG83: Cheers, yes this is for a Conville Course. Excellent way of learning some of the neccesary techniques!!

All they said was 'an ice screw'. Thanks for the advice. I think they are primarily for crevasse rescue!

Should be good!!!!!!
 beardy mike 10 Jun 2005
In reply to SJD: Have found the mountain tech screws to be absolute gash. Spent a fair bit of time doing water ice this winter and I had to pre drill with a short screw and then replace with the mt screw and crank the last few turns. Frigging waste of time and added considerably to pant filling quotiant. Buy the best you can afford!

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