In reply to Chris Craggs:
> Re Forsida - have you no soul?
Perhaps my soul has just been to expanded by the wealth of other climbing on Lofoten. It was my second visit to the Goat. The first time I had done the 1910 route with my missus so perhaps the magic had worn off... By the way, the first move on that is horribly hard. I used a sling clipped to a friend to get off the ground and saw Robert Jasper (Yes - M14 and 8a on the North Face of Eiger Robert Jasper) think twice. His wife slipped off seconding him - and I think she climbs about 8a as well (and was very friendly incidently).
Is there any plans to put any of the routes in on Trolls Cathedral (the big crag over looking the road down to the campsite at Paradiset)? The Spurven/Colibrien link with the direct crack pitch, is probably second only to Vestpillaren for the routes I've done there. Really really good climbing.
Has anyone done the Ape just by the Kallestrand campground? It gets something hardish in the book like 6, but I suspect it would be middling VS on Yorkshire grit.
One final more serious point. Are the locals happy with people camping below Gandalf Wall? There was a lot of shit and paper around when I was last there (2003) plus general rubbish. A real shame. Not necessarily climbers, but as the local commune has actually provided a free of charge campground at Kalle with running water and compost loo - I think climbers should be pointed that way first. From it you can easily walk to all the great routes that aren't in topo (Trolls Cathedral, Paradiset, Rum and Cola, Mosquito Pillar etc.) and I can't imagine hitching round to Hennigsvaer would be too difficult? People could probably get rides from other climbers on the campsite.