UKC

Best Ice screw length.

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JH 14 Oct 2005

Need to get a few screws for this winters adventures. I can get a good deal on BD turbos, but how many and what lengths should I get for general winter climbing (Alpine not Scotish)?

Thanks for any advice.

JH


Removed User 14 Oct 2005
In reply to JH:

Two for each belay and two in between, longer is stronger but no use if the ice ain't deep enough so get a selection.
That should do for starters.
Major Clanger 14 Oct 2005
In reply to JH: you can always tie off longer screws
 Dee 14 Oct 2005
In reply to Major Clanger:
> (In reply to JH) you can always tie off longer screws

Check the BD/Craig Luebben test results for failure of tied-off screws vs shorter screws - particularly stubby screws. All things being equal(!), suggests 'tied off screw' is weaker than a stubby placed to the hanger.


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