UKC

what is chris sharma trying to do now?

In reply to lleida: Eating Breakfast?

In reply to SoHotRockstar:

No he'll probably still be in bed..........

In reply to lleida: Roll another blunt while off his head?

In reply to lleida:

He spent a lot of the summer DWSing in Mallorca, then went back to Squamish to send a longstanding project he ended up calling it Dreamcatcher cna declined to grade. Rumours and gossip say 14d/15a. Prior to that he sent a new roof boulder problem, possibly the hardest thing he's ever done and called it 'Witness The Fitness'. Again, declined to grade, but looks likely V15/16?

In reply to lleida:

He didn't "refuse to grade it" [Dreamcatcher]. He said it was 14c or 14d. Sonnie Trotter (who had bolted it for the RocTrip) also said it was 14+. Much more bouldery than the endurance routes up in Cheakamus and so definitely hardest crag route in BC. Waiting for Sonnie to get the repeat so we will know whether Forever Expired or Dreamcatcher is hardest route in Canada.

In reply to the_chapati_of_doom_again: innocent question!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
These top guys, financial support. Whats the score?

In reply to Dom Orsler:

If you read the News at UKClimbing.com you will read that he did 'guess' a grade

Oct 5 news Dom...scroll down to the bottom

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?date=200510

Keep up with the program laddie.

Mick

In reply to Marts:

Be more specific.

In reply to Mick Ryan: Hiya Mick,
Well I'm interested if they all live as overclassed hippi's or get a good amount from the sponsors. I read a book about Dan osman and he apparently never made much money from his sponsors.
What about our guys over here, are they working on routes or working on a paper round (you know what I mean).

In reply to Marts: well yeah some but he also gives some of his dough back http://www.yobasecamp.com/index.htm

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Sorry - silly old me just went with what he told me after he'd done it.

In reply to the_chapati_of_doom_again:

If you're going to "quote" me, at least use copy and paste. I didn't say he "refused". I said he "declined". Saying 'in the region of' a grade means you haven't graded it. Saying "14d" means you have.

Simple.

In reply to Dom Orsler:

was it out of the horses mouth

In reply to Mick Ryan:

Oh, and another thing. Everyone 'gueses' a grade. No-one 'knows' the grade. They are all guesses or estimates rather than immutable absolutes. In this instance, he didn't even guess a grade. He guessed a range. Hence 'declined to offer a grade'.

In reply to Mick Ryan: 'keep up with the program'.. is this a new saying that is currently doing the rounds that side of the pond?

and don't tell me to keep up with the program!!

In reply to alpkid:

Suppose so. Otherwise it would be 'programme'.

In reply to Marts:

I don't think Sharma came from money. You can guestimate that he prolly makes over $100,000 a year or thereabouts. He's Prana's top athelete, plus his other endorsements, Blue Water, Petzl etc.....and his competition winnings some of which he donates to charity as mentioned above. He has an agent so he's serious. Then there are slide shows and where the real money is 'motivational talks' to business people. Add in film work and if you are up there, if you've got your shit together you can make a good living.

North Face atheletes get various amounts......~ $20,000 up to much more than that if you are Peter Croft. Again trip and expeditions are usually paid for.

The main sponsors usually pay for trips: flights and accomodation. Again it depends on how far up the totem poll you are.

You get photo incentive payment as well - just look at some of the UK mags and there front covers. It's not by chance that sponsored atheletes have oversize logos plastered all over them.

At a base level you will get free gear and photo incentives, at the higher levels a salary plus.

But you have to give a lot back. It's all about the company sponsoring you selling more gear becaues of you. Sharma is a prize because he gets so much exposure and he's a great chap with a great image.



Dan wasn't a top climber in the greater scheme of things. Very good but not world class. What he was good at was jumping off things and being filmed jumping off things - usually by Eric Perman. I've no idea if he got paid for these stunts.


Well just look around you....Steve McClure writes for Climb, Ian Vickers and Gareth Parry run a climbing wall, as does John Dunne, Ben Moon has climbing clothing company, Jerry Moffat is into real estate.

You've got to be exceptional to make a living just off going climbing and you have to plan ahead so that when you run out of steam you have something else, maybe climbing related, lined up.

Mick

In reply to Dom Orsler:

I know that Dom.

Chris guessed a grade for Dreamcatcher as Josh told me.

In reply to alpkid:

Keep up with the freaking program Alpkid and stop talking French.