UKC

Leo Houlding "it will never go free"

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 Jon Greengrass 31 Oct 2005
Lynn Hill and Beth Rodden have free climbed the Aid ladder start to Houlding's free version of the West face of Leaning tower in the Yosemite valley.

Another absolutely astounding achievement.

Well done those girls.
 beardy mike 31 Oct 2005
In reply to Jon Greengrass: Bloody hell! Have been up it and found it tough work pulling on the bolts! Fair play girls!
coconutter 31 Oct 2005
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

I don't think they did, but I'll be happy to be proved wrong - where did you get this snippet from?
In reply to Jon Greengrass: was katie brown climbing with Lynn not Beth Rodden
 duncan 31 Oct 2005
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

Not the first two pitches http://lynnhillblogs.com/?cat=4

I bet it's a great route all the same.
Wingman@work 31 Oct 2005
In reply to duncan:

if I've read that blog correctly (admitidly I skimmed through it) then they didn't free the bolt ladder at the start but started the free climbing above the first overhanging wall?
coconutter 31 Oct 2005
In reply to duncan:

As I suspected.

First, so I don't get misinterpreted, let me congratulate these Yanks for their outstanding ascent. A phenomenal achievement on an awe-inspiring route (which I agree, is spooky enough to aid!).

Now, to the point. This is yet another example of the utter sewage that some of this site's users generate, which is becoming intolerable for anyone with an ounce of intelligence. Leo declared this impossible because it is a blank piece of rock. Yes blank as in unclimbable, you will never find anyone ever who will climb it, which incidentally is the case with the huge majority of granite faces. The fact that the OP thinks that Lynn and Beth (even though it was Katie Brown, not Beth Rodden) freed this pitch proves two things:

a) He hasn't been there, ergo doesn't know what he's talking about.

There's nothing wrong with that of course. But problems start when you open your big mouth and spout unqualified garbage, due to the fact that:

b) He can't read.

Lynn's blog is fairly clear on the facts, and even to my untrained eye appears to be in English.

The Indian Face thread is another shocking example, wherein the OP enquired about ascensionists of TIF further to the three he "knew" about. Two of which haven't done it. The mind boggles. Buy a f*cking Cloggy guide.

I propose the solution that if you don't KNOW what you're talking about, keep it to yourself, or ask a pertinent question. Don't pretend to know just to give you an excuse to waffle because you can't be arsed to do your job/exams/go climbing.

Thanks.
 Norrie Muir 31 Oct 2005
In reply to coconutter:
> (In reply to duncan)
I propose the solution that if you don't KNOW what you're talking about, keep it to yourself, or ask a pertinent question. Don't pretend to know just to give you an excuse to waffle because you can't be arsed to do your job/exams/go climbing.
>
Dear nutter

You make some very good points, however, there would be very few posters.

Norrie
 Smelly Fox 31 Oct 2005
In reply to coconutter:
lol!
 Fume Troll 31 Oct 2005
In reply to coconutter: You just don't get good enough of that good quality flaming / ranting these days. Good effort.

Cheers,

FT.
Wingman@work 31 Oct 2005
In reply to Wingman@work:

I should add that I am not trying to detract from their achievement by pointing this out!
 Michael Ryan 31 Oct 2005
In reply to coconutter:
> (In reply to duncan)

> Now, to the point. This is yet another example of the utter sewage that some of this site's users generate, which is becoming intolerable for anyone with an ounce of intelligence.

I think you will find that if some incorrectly states something it is very quickly pointed out. This is a case in point. How quickly did someone, quite correctly cry "bullshit." I think you find it was 5 minutes after the OP.

Don't forget that overwhelmingly the forums at UKClimbing.com provide a wealth of useful information for people on topics such as gear, weather, places to visit, partners to hook up with and yes very technical questions. Read the News about Stephen Reid's search for Hasket Smith relatives, that's just one small example of how positive these forums can be. But yes, sometimes you will get ill-informed clap trap and sometimes just plain ignorance.....you'll just have to live with that in this egalatarian world.

Thanks.

Mick




 Fume Troll 31 Oct 2005
In reply to Mick Ryan: Very true.

Cheers,

FT.
 Skyfall 31 Oct 2005
In reply to coconutter:

What you've overlooked is that Greengrass doesn't know what the f*ck he's talking about, on any subject, so you can happily ignore him

Otherwise, fair points. And one reason why I'm not dipping into the site as much as I used to.
 Si dH 31 Oct 2005
In reply to coconutter:
Brilliant. And you are right, of course.
BennyC 31 Oct 2005
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
> Lynn Hill and Beth Rodden have free climbed the Aid ladder start to Houlding's free version of the West face of Leaning tower in the Yosemite valley.
>
> Another absolutely astounding achievement.
>
> Well done those girls.


I will now sleep easier tonight, knowing that. It's changed mankind forever.
 Greg Chapman 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Mick Ryan:

> Don't forget that overwhelmingly the forums at UKClimbing.com provide a wealth of useful information for people on topics such as gear, weather, places to visit, partners to hook up with and yes very technical questions

That may be true, but the immense amount of time one has to spend sifting through drivel to find anything useful does make the resource somewhat unattractive, in my opinion.
Hotbad Peteel 01 Nov 2005
In reply to coconutter:

Do you only state facts when telling stories in the pub?
p
 KeithW 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Hotbad Peteel:

> Do you only state facts when telling stories in the pub?

This isn't Down The Pub, this is Rocktalk. Different standards should and do apply.
Hotbad Peteel 01 Nov 2005
In reply to KeithW:

Do you not talk about rocks in the pub? I was referring to actual pubs that serve beer. If you want half checked truth wait til it gets to the ukc news page
p
In reply to KeithW: Is it invitation only?
 KeithW 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

Hey, don't shoot the messenger. I'm not a Mod & I'm not really bothered. Natter away to your heart's content.
In reply to KeithW: neither am I
 TRJ 01 Nov 2005
In reply to coconutter: I asked my original question about the Indian Face because I wanted to learn more about this famous rouute. Because I'm genuinely interested in the sport and its history and wanted to develop my understanding further. So I was mistaken about a couple of repeat ascents? Who gives a flying f*ck? Isn't this part of the learning process? Why should I buy a Cloggy Guide when I have no intention of climbing there until I'm good enough? What's wrong with a harmless question? I assume you must own the entire pantheon of climbing literature, and keep it on the shelf under your precious back issues of Razzle. Trivial fools like you exhibit all the elitist traits that has no place in the outdoors. Cock off.
 Offwidth 01 Nov 2005
In reply to TRJ:

For a site to be useful its best not to drown the information in noise. Some of the most helpful and knowledgable posters who previously gave rapid accurate climbing information that was very difficult to get hold off have now either left the site or rarely post now as the noise is getting too much. So coconutter is right to be annoyed, even if being a bit OTT in his tone doesnt help get his point across. Its a 'free country' (within the site guidelines that you breached several times in your reply) so post what you like but dont complain when all you get is echos.
 GrahamD 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Offwidth:

You have to admit that the likes of the Woker vs John Arran 'debates' on the relative merits of different rock boots is a good source of entertainment, though.
 Michael Ryan 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Greg Chapman:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan)
>
> [...]
>
> That may be true, but the immense amount of time one has to spend sifting

Don't sift Greg. Use it smart. If you do just general reading you'll find, often quite unexpectedly, many a gem, and quite interesting words, as well as stuff that has no interest to you. There were 12,211 posts last week by 1293 authors, so sifting as you say can be fun, but quite time consuming.

If you are interested in something specific, do a search....say you wanted to climb the Matterhorn, start by going to search for 'Matterhorn', you'll find that you will get a wealth of information from people who have recently climbed it. Try it and see.

If you still need further information, ask a specific question, in one of the twelve forums. If you wanted info say about the Hornli Ridge, post your question in Rocktalk or Expedition and Alpine. Need a partner or a lift, try Lifts and Partners. Got a question about gear, try Climbing Gear.

You'll get many answers, and fast. Some good, some not so. Want to follow up, email the person through the site to get more specifics.

So don't 'sift', use smart if you are after something specific. If you have no specific objective, a general reading will do, use your preferences just to show recent topics in your particular interest.

There's also a great sport at the UKClimbing.com which some delight in, pointing out how wrong some people are. But you have to be quick as there are lots who love that game and rightly so. But be gentle on those new to the sport, they don't have the depth of knowledge and experience as some on here.

Political discussion, use Down The Pub. And if you just want an online chat, use Chat or if you want something a little more intimate, I'll give you my private hotline!

toodles,

Mick

 Offwidth 01 Nov 2005
In reply to Mick Ryan:

Trouble is when posts fill with guff and disappear off the front page in hours those willing to help answering questions gradually lose patience. In this sense the site is a victim of its own success and not as good as it was to find info as a result. A new guideline would help: think before you post. Moderators could also send more general messages to the worst offenders chatting on the climbing posts: some people seem to live on here!
In reply to Offwidth:

I have always felt that it would be handy to know who was the last to post on a thread. An extra cloumn with the last posters name.

You can then mostly identify whether the post will be worth entering a thread for again . . .

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