UKC

See topic. Why the hell does The Edge dyno contest go diagonally leftwards instead of straight up?? Several reasons why it should NOT have gone sideways at all:

1. Very obviously not the most accurate nor most natural test of pure dynoing ability.

2. Possibly unfairly biased towards/against left-handed or right-handed climbers.

3. Could crash leftwards into the left wall of the shallow groove when missing dyno.

4. Landing hold sideways will always favour left-hand therefore potentially biased towards left-handed climbers.

5. Massive leftwards swing will probably shockload arms more than a straightup dyno.

In reply to Fiend:

Diagonal, and I'd bet the exact angle, was chosen to maximise the achievable distance between the two holds. How else do you think "Guiness Book of Records World Records" are set? Unclear on the biases after that.

I liked the look of the guy with the spikey blue foam thing on his head--his leap and the method of landing it right handed looked the most gymnastic to me; he seemd to skip up the wall at one point!

In reply to John Gillott: You can go further diagonally, because it emphasises the use of swing, so short people had a better chance. Straight up would be the tallest competition.

I think right handed was still the best method, as it minimised swing when you caught the hold.

Most people have a stronger left leg aswell, so left seams a good way to dyno.

Twas a good laugh, wish I'd won some money though!

In reply to AndiT & John Gillott: Well that's all very well but it still doesn't explain nor justify the diagonal bit. In fact:

"You can go further diagonally, because it emphasises the use of swing"

Supports what I'm saying - a test of swinging ability not pure dynoing ability. Hell why not have the target hold horizontally from the start... As for short people, well that's a pity but that's the way it always is for climbing - they (errr, we) just have to try harder.

In reply to Fiend:
I think you had better explain what "pure dynoing ability" is!! You don't seem to know what your talking about!?!? Putting the hold diagonally tests the spring you can generate, and your holding on ability. Although I'm sure that much thought didn't come into it, probably more along the lines of it looks good going diagonally, swingin' around and all that!!! Were you there?

In reply to AndiT:

"so short people had a better chance"

they dont disqualify people in the olympic long jump becuase they are too tall and dont give the short arse sprinters a head start.

you cant make human inconsistencies consistent, so focus on making all the other variables consistent in order to maximise a 'level' playing field.

ie dyno straight up.

no logic in recording sideways dyno, other than doing it both ways and mark the record holder with the greatest avarage out of the two.

laterzz

m@

In reply to AndiT: Pure upwards momentum gained by pulling up with the arms and jumping with the feet. Sure you can dyno sideways or even downwards for all I care but it's obvious upwards is the most logical and natural test.

May not make the most exciting comp but how about recording the distance as how far the jump is above the persons head height (or measured reach). Similar to the old high school standing jump test where you stand next to a wall and place a chalk mark as high as you can then jump to place a second mark above it. The distance between the two marks is the score i.e how high you jumped.