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MCC Bouldering League

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 Pauline 12 Nov 2005
So who turned up? What did you think? Was it just me or was it complete chaos? But fun of course!!
 Joez 12 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline:
Yep, I went down, had a good range of problems I though - just enough so you got a rest but wernt too bored.
Came in with a dismal score that I darent even mention but it was good fun and looked like no injuries!!
OP Pauline 12 Nov 2005
In reply to LittleJoe: Hubby and sprog (spyda) both climbed and both had abysmal scores too! so i wouldn't worry too much about that! It was fun though!
 zoobizooretta 12 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline:

I thought it was a right laugh, i've got some good photo, which i've just posted...
 Andy Farnell 12 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline: Went down as well, had a great time. I thought most of the problems were good, but I'm gutted I didn't flash the Dyno. As it was I went above it on my first go... bugger!. As for the rest, things went better than I'd hoped, managing most things pretty quickly.

Andy F
 Andy Farnell 12 Nov 2005
In reply to andy farnell: Oh yeah... anyone know where can you get the full list of scores?

Andy F
OP Pauline 12 Nov 2005
In reply to zoobizooretta: Got any more photos of the comp then? the ones I've looked at were pretty good. I didn't get to take any the logistics of being the pack horse kinda prevented me... not enuf hands
OP Pauline 12 Nov 2005
In reply to andy farnell: Hi Andy! I've just emailed MCC to ask them to post the results somewhere so look out for them I suggested on here but might put them on their web site!
 kms 12 Nov 2005
squeek 14 Nov 2005
In reply to kms:

I thought that picture was quite complimentary for you!

Comp was good, although I was rushing round a lot at the end just to try problems I hadn't done and there was still one I didn't manage to try. The problems were good and there was a good range of different styles. The upstairs room was very hot though, any chance of an extractor fan being put on the wall, or a window that slides open so it isn't restricted by the security bars?
 haze01 14 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline:

I climbed particularly badly that night & my score was appalling - i wouldn't be surprised if i came last out of the women! And i've never see them at the wall so where did all these brilliant lady boulderers come from? (The 1st placed woman was pretty close to beating the 3rd place mens score.)

Good fun, but was a bit of a struggle to get near anything at times. Got some good tips from John Dunne on a couple of problems though :0)
 zoobizooretta 14 Nov 2005
In reply to kms:

I can't i've submitted 'em...

aw well.
squeek 14 Nov 2005
In reply to haze01:
> And i've never see them at the wall so where did all these brilliant lady boulderers come from? (The 1st placed woman was pretty close to beating the 3rd place mens score.)

Sabine, who won it, won the BBCs last year, she's a very good climber. A couple of the other women have competed in the BBCs.

Did anyone mange to complete either of the hard roof problems upstairs (purple and turquoise)?
 Andy Farnell 14 Nov 2005
In reply to squeek:
> (In reply to haze01)
> [...]
>
>
>
> Did anyone mange to complete either of the hard roof problems upstairs (purple and turquoise)?

Don't think either got done as they were nails. The only gripe I have with the comp is that there weren't any problems you could really work at, they were either flashable or too hard.

Andy F
 Andy Farnell 14 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline:
> (In reply to andy farnell) Hi Andy! I've just emailed MCC to ask them to post the results somewhere so look out for them I suggested on here but might put them on their web site!

Still no sign of the full results, it would be nice to see them soon.

Andy F
 ThePimpOfCrimp 14 Nov 2005
In reply to andy farnell: Theyre not compiled yet, theres a stack about a foot thick of comp forms to go through and the staff are pretty busy alot of the time. They'll be up soon though I should imagine.
 Andy Farnell 14 Nov 2005
In reply to ThePimpOfCrimp: Thanks for the info, much obliged. BTW, what was the 3rd place mens score?

Andy F
 ThePimpOfCrimp 14 Nov 2005
In reply to andy farnell: Off the top of my head I can't tell you but i'll be down tonight or tomorrow so i'll give it a look then.
 Andy Farnell 14 Nov 2005
In reply to ThePimpOfCrimp: I know Stu Watson posted 240 and Tom Sugden posted 234, just wondered what the 3rd place score was as had I not cocked-up the dyno I'd have posted 230. Ho Hum...

Andy F
 haze01 14 Nov 2005
In reply to squeek:
>
> Sabine, who won it, won the BBCs last year, she's a very good climber. A couple of the other women have competed in the BBCs.

Ah, i don't feel quite so crap now then ;0)
 Andy Farnell 14 Nov 2005
In reply to haze01: Sabine's redpointed 8a (at least, probably harder) and bouldered hard (Font7b+ minimum) as well, so don't beat yourself up about it.

Andy F
squeek 14 Nov 2005
> Don't think either got done as they were nails. The only gripe I have with the comp is that there weren't any problems you could really work at, they were either flashable or too hard.

I think this is quite peronal though, next time there might be a few problems you can work, but for others they're too hard/flashable as it depends on your strengths and weaknesses. The problems did a good job of splitting people up, Tom and Stuart both did/failed on different problems (I think).

If someone from MCC reads this the areas I think could be improved are temperature (as mentioned above) especially upstairs as the room's quite confined so keeps the heat in, and the signing of the scores. I realise that you don't want people to cheat and there isn't enough people to have one person marking each problem and that also creates a less informal atmosphere, but is it really necessary to have two people sign every problem? There's enough staff and other competitors to see if someone's cheating and if someone hands a score sheet in to win or come in the top three and no-ones see them do the hardest problems then they're going to be found out, is one signature not enough? Or am I just thinking everyone's too honest.

Along the same lines it might be an idea to make sure that each member of staff has a pen or two on them for signing sheets on the night, they seemed to be a little sparse on Friday.

Only minor points though, I thought it was very good.

 Andy Farnell 14 Nov 2005
In reply to squeek: Your right about upstairs being way too hot, much better ventilation is needed. On the double signatures, I climbed with a mate all night and we signed each others sheets at the end. When I handed mine into reception I explained what we'ed done and they seemed happy with just the one signature. Overall I thought it was a good comp, nice atmosphere and some interesting problems (and gradings...).

Andy F
 haze01 14 Nov 2005
In reply to andy farnell:
don't beat yourself up about it.
>

I'm not really - i didn't expect to place well in the comp as i've only been getting into bouldering fairly recently and V5 or V6 is about my limits just now.
Was a little disappointed in myself because I usually climb better than I did that evening, but it was still good fun :0)
 kms 14 Nov 2005
on the issue of the double witness it was on my suggestion. just for the fact that some *may* cheat. but it didnt go down well on the night and here so i'll be giving them feedback on that.

there was a time when i saw a girl trying the yellow prblem thru the volume downstairs use the flourescent yellow as footholds, and no-one said anything, she didnt finish it whilst i was watching.

as for the problems, there were too many in such a small amount of time and with so many climbers. i'm gonna suggest max 20 problems. with 5 seperate easier ones just for the women. doesnt stop them from attepmting the men's like i'm sure sabine will try.

was speaking to dunne on the night and he said that he would close the wall to non competitors in the future, tho they have the right to be there, they won't get in the way and there's no chance of you getting in the belayers way. sounds fair as its just for one night.

with the wall closed for the comp that means that the problems can be spread out more, there were a few times on the downstairs bouldering when someone who was struggling on a problem could have easily fallen onto the unknowing person standing below.
squeek 14 Nov 2005
In reply to kms:

I think if the problems they were more accessible it would work well. For instance, if there were 5 seperate for the women, and 5 for children (then they could be set with smaller reaches) it would disperse the climbers so you could get to the problems easier and wouldn't have to wait as much.

20 problems would give 5 at each level, sounds about right, however if you change the maximum amount of points for other rounds how are you going to fairly work out the overall winners? 27 might work better if they were spread out more.
 ThePimpOfCrimp 14 Nov 2005
In reply to kms: Heh ste congrats on your 'COMMEE ONNN!!!!!' upon completing the purple with campus finish. I could barely pull on to the damn thing, damn my puny arms.

I dont think there were too many problems, personally I would prefer a larger amount of problems but more emphasis on more points for harder probs. At least that way people can stick to problems more at their level of difficulty and there wouldnt be huge queues for each one. And at least then the nails lads are free to work the hardest of problems due to the reduced queues.


Regarding temperature of the upstairs room, off the top of my head there are a total of 7 windows in close proximety(sp?) however I do not know if they were all open that night. When I arrived at 9am the next morning the room was stone cold to the point that I trapped my finger in the window and didnt notice until i raised my hand to a hold and found blood pouring down the back of it.
 Tyler 14 Nov 2005
In reply to kms:
> on the issue of the double witness it was on my suggestion. just for the fact that some *may* cheat. but it didnt go down well on the night and here so i'll be giving them feedback on that.

If you are going to come 60th anyway adding a few points to your score is neither here nor there so I'd say it wasn't worth the hassle.It's just fun who's going to cheat anyway?

> there was a time when i saw a girl trying the yellow prblem thru the volume downstairs use the flourescent yellow as footholds, and no-one said anything, she didnt finish it whilst i was watching.

Everyone was doing that 'cos technically they were screw ons which were allowed. If not I'd better scratch another 10 of me score! I did think it a bit strange though. While we're in this area it seemed a bit daft to have 3 problems in this small section (two of which were traverses!) and no problem on panel one.

> as for the problems, there were too many in such a small amount of time and with so many climbers. i'm gonna suggest max 20 problems. with 5 seperate easier ones just for the women. doesnt stop them from attepmting the men's like i'm sure sabine will try.

Two catagories would be good but I'm not sure splitting it by age or gender is the best way, I don't think most of the women or myself would thank you if I had to do a harder set of problems than her!

> was speaking to dunne on the night and he said that he would close the wall to non competitors in the future, tho they have the right to be there, they won't get in the way and there's no chance of you getting in the belayers way. sounds fair as its just for one night.

that'd be good thought there is a danger that anyone turning up to climb and unable to climb 'normally' would just enter the comp rather than turning back. I assumed the numbers would drop anyway as the series goes on.

> with the wall closed for the comp that means that the problems can be spread out more, there were a few times on the downstairs bouldering when someone who was struggling on a problem could have easily fallen onto the unknowing person standing below.


What about running two sessions, many people finish work early on a Friday so could start at 4.30, there'd still be some overlap but it would allow the early starters to rattle through a load of problems before everyone else gets inand allow the late starters to rattle through a load of problems later when it is a bit quieter.
 kms 14 Nov 2005
In reply to Tyler:

>
> Two catagories would be good but I'm not sure splitting it by age or gender is the best way, I don't think most of the women or myself would thank you if I had to do a harder set of problems than her!
>

they split the genders in the british bouldering comps and british indoor climbing comp's because most women can't climb v8
 haze01 15 Nov 2005
In reply to squeek:
>
> I think if the problems they were more accessible it would work well. For instance, if there were 5 seperate for the women, and 5 for children (then they could be set with smaller reaches) it would disperse the climbers so you could get to the problems easier and wouldn't have to wait as much.

There are short guys who struggle on reachy type routes & the top female scorers were doing the hardest problems anyway. A few separate problems for the smaller kids maybe, but otherwise I don't see any benefit to splitting the competition any further than scoring in separate mens & womens categories.

 Tyler 15 Nov 2005
In reply to kms:

That's because the best of each gender are competeing and the best women will probably still not be as good as the lowest ranked men competeing. In a comp open to all there will a be a fair number of women who are better than the men so why not let the individual choose which catagory they enter (and still have prizes for men and women in each catagory).
squeek 15 Nov 2005
In reply to haze01:
> There are short guys who struggle on reachy type routes & the top female scorers were doing the hardest problems anyway. A few separate problems for the smaller kids maybe, but otherwise I don't see any benefit to splitting the competition any further than scoring in separate mens & womens categories.

The main benefits would be to spread the problems about meaning less congestion and provide more problems that a large proportion of the women could try. Although Sabine, who won, was able to give some of the hardest problems good attempts, the fall off after that is probably pretty drastic. It'll be a lot easier to gauge how much benefit splitting it would be when you see the scores. There would still be some of the hardest problems for the women to separate the top women, but not as many.

eg, loose 3 hardest 'extremes' and replace with 3 separate 'moderates'.
 haze01 15 Nov 2005
In reply to squeek:

How many women actually entered? I don't really remember but I'm sure that we were outnumbered by the guys by quite a lot.

Whilst having our own problems so we don't have to wait & shove our way through all you lot might be nice, it probably wouldn't ease congestion for you very much at all!
 Andy Farnell 15 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline: Still no overall results though

Andy F
OP Pauline 15 Nov 2005
In reply to andy farnell: The results are there on the MCC site in the bouldering league section right at the bottom of the page... it look like they are not there but if you highlite each section they miraculously appear!

As for the children's comp... I thought it was a bit odd! The U18 girls were all garuenteed a place cos there was only 3 of them and they were all about 11ish, but my 10yr old boy didn't stand a chance cos he was climbing agains loads of 14 -17yr old teenagers.. how demoralising for him! So... some less reachy problems for the younger kids might be good! And maybe categorise the U18's ages a bit further! But that is just more work for MCC so it probably won't happen!
OP Pauline 15 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline: Bouldering League - Round 1 results Over 18 Mens
1 Stew Watson240 24D Butler157
2 Tom Sugden234 25Nathan Lawrence157
3 Ben Meeks234 26Graham Lynch157
4 Andy Farnell227 27Chris Polden153
5Dave Sutcliffe217 28Guy Maddox153
6Tom Lawrence210 29Johnathan Bull147
7Mick Theaker200 30Alex Cannon147
8T Roberts197 31Johnathan Dennis143
9Alex Fry194 32J Squire133
10Chris Whiteman190 33Brendan Gill127
11davew Kells186 34Neil Carruthers127
12Ian Redmond186 35Ashley Lewis127
13Ste Li184 36Joe Milner123
14T Kigonte183 37Alex Barber114
15Nigel Hunt181 38Tim Palmer107
16Simon Ainsclough178 39Ben Lea107
17James Taylor169 40Joe Howie100
18Keefe murphy161 41Mike Borg-Costani100
19Phil Benn160 42Scott Rose53
20Carl Dawson160 43Rik Howarth40
21Chris Watson157 44Jon Goh30
22Ben Freeman157 45David Lovett27
23Lucian Mureasan157

Bouldering League - Round 1 results Over 18 Women
1Sabine Bacher210 9Rachel Alderton54
2Rachel Seymour183 10Hazel Robson40
3Zoe O147 11Sam Drew37
4Segolene Cachein140 12Vi Walker36
5Kate Turner121 13Comrie McDonald34
6Lizzie Bowler107 14Rachel Pritchard26
7Jo Solomon94 15Elin Pettitt13
8Rachel Hinchliffe93

Bouldering League - Round 1 results Under 18 Males
1Daniel Turner193 7Robin Lloyd83
2Tim Lloyd160 8Shaun Naylor70
3Tom Major150 9Adam Whiteside60
4Matt Jones120 10Nick Davis33
5Johnny Davis100 11Micheal Lovett24
6Cairan Lofts100 12William Kennedy20

Bouldering League - Round 1 results Under 18 Females
1Catherine Whiteman130
2Charlotte Ellison97
3Rachel Deakin54

Hope this helps you all!
Thought I'd save you all the trouble finding it yourself!
 Andy Farnell 16 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline: Thanks for that.

Andy F
 haze01 16 Nov 2005
In reply to Pauline:
> As for the children's comp... I thought it was a bit odd! The U18 girls were all garuenteed a place cos there was only 3 of them and they were all about 11ish, but my 10yr old boy didn't stand a chance cos he was climbing against loads of 14 -17yr old teenagers..

That does seem rather unfair. Maybe they should have a general under 13s class - I wouldn't have thought there would be a huge natural strength/ability difference between boys & girls at that age.
If there's no older girls interested in competing then it would still just be 4 categories, and expense for 4 sets of prizes.


btw, thanks for posting the results :0)

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