UKC

They advise spray on style DWR not wash in!

http://www.gore-tex.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ContentGView?storeId=1000...

In reply to CurlyStevo:

I'm sure that's always been the case, which is why I've been a bit surprised at people recommending nikwax wash-in stuff on recent threads.

In reply to Ridge:
Prolly is the case, I for one always thought nikwax washin was the best product for gore. I for one won't be buying this anymore (especially as it has to be heat treated to activate it)

In reply to CurlyStevo: Thats the same with all types. It actually does it good to heat the jacket up. Just wack it in a tumble dryer... The Spray on stuff works exactly the same as the wash in... only more expensive. Juwst means your inner lining is made water resistant as well... can't see how thats a problem though...

In reply to mike kann:
I've heard ironing the products is actually better for them than tumble drying. Tunble drying is more destructive.

In reply to CurlyStevo: The idea is, as Mike says, that using a wash-in product will treat the inside of the garment as well as the outside, thus adversely affecting the wicking/breathability properties of the garment. Although why anyone would be wearing goretex if they were seriously concerned about breathability issues is a bit hard to figure. My experience with spray-on products is that they don't work very well, while wash-in products at least have some minimal effect. Never been successful at restoring anything like the original "factory finish" though, even with Nikwax wash-in followed by a run through the dryer. Maybe I should have tried ironing instead as you suggest.

In reply to Prague:
Yup I've found with wash in and tumble drying it's really good and beads up for the first few hours use (or first couple of showers), but very quickly looses the DWR. I've never used spray on.

Do you wash the garment first, I find this helps a lot before using the DWR.

In reply to CurlyStevo: I do wash the jacket first using some techie-wash, then wash it again using wash-in Nikwax, then dry it in a tumble dryer. Just like your experience, at first it looks like it will be quite successful, but then the DWR quickly fades, much more rapidly than did the original factory applied finish. Wonder how they do it??

In reply to CurlyStevo:
Anyone compared the factory DWR finish on membranes to the DWR finish on Paramo gear? And does reproofing need to be done as often?

In reply to mart rich: Cheshire shoe repairs offer a re-proofing service that they claim is better than the factory DWR's/ Not sure if it is or not though.

In reply to Craig Geddes:
perhaps they laminate it in plastic?