UKC

troll wall norway

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roger naylor 07 May 2002
heading over to norway at the end of this month to attempt the troll wall, possibly east pillar or rimmon route.
does anyone have any info on the condition of these routes - in particular i heard about a major rockfall a few years back that may render the guidebook useless... thanks in advance.
francoise 07 May 2002
In reply to roger naylor:

While you are there, can you do some networking with local climbers and find out about ice climbing? And take photos of waterfalls?

I just met a Norwegian climber but I can't contact him before 10 days when he will back home.
jimbo 07 May 2002
In reply to francoise:
I've been to Romsdal in summer, which isn't a lot of use for winter stuff, but you can see where the routes would form.

However, i would just go in winter. Some friends recently returned from Helmsedal (?), and the pictures are amazing - whole cliffs like a zebra crossing - white ice streak, rock, white ice streak......

I've gone icefall climbing in Canada where it is pretty amazing, but what i've seen is more impressive!
 TobyA 08 May 2002
In reply to roger naylor: use the mountain info archive from High which is available through Planetfear.com It is an absolutely brilliant resource for all mountaineers now it is on the net and searchable.

I found the reports on the rockfall very quickly - just search "Norway" and you'll get it.
francoise 08 May 2002
In reply to jimbo:

I would like to explore new ice routes in Norway, hence my search for info. There is very little published. The knowledge seems to be with local climbers. The Norwegians don't seem to brag as much as others when they do routes.
OP roger naylor 28 May 2002
In reply to TobyA:

thanks Toby, that site had some useful stuff.

just got back from the trip - had to retreat from the troll wall due to bombardment by rockfall and meltw*ter - just a couple of months too early for it to be in condition.
however climbed east ridge direct on bispen which was an awesome (if rather easier) route!

as for the waterfalls, i've got plenty of photos for the other guys - it's fair to say you can see where the routes will form... will post them up later.

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