UKC

what is usually best time for this climb (cue "when in condition" "dinner time" etc ) meaning late in season or just a case of having to be there when its in ?

forms every season?

how difficult/serious is it (realise it can fluctuate according to condition) best conditions being ?

thanks for any info

In reply to jas wood:

Hasn't formed all that often in recent years, and an ascent is complicated by the avalanche-prone nature of the approach. It should be climbable at some point most seasons, but as always opportunism is the name of the game. February and the first half of March tend to be the best months for this type of route, but it will undoubtedly have been done at all times.

Suspect it can be desperate if thin, or a fairly steady III if there's been a good build-up and steady cold conditions. It got a good few ascents at one spell last year, although it did get quite hacked latterly.

In reply to jas wood:

Dear jas

I've done it a few times, from Dec to March. The pitches are very small and it is not serious. Difficulty is all relevant.

Norrie

In reply to jas wood:

We tried to do it very early in the season last year (around new year). Bad choice - had a few small powder avalanches (not big enough to do you any damage but still a bit unsettling) and there was no ice on the crux. Tried and failed to dry-tool it instead and ended up retreating.

In reply to jas wood:
Mid to late season there tends only to be a minor pitch in the narrow bit before the slab pitch, and the slab pitch itself. Spindrift avalanches can be a nuisance in the narrow bit but if your happy on grade 3 none of it is hard at all.
ringo

In reply to jas wood:

My mate Bob and I did it last Feb 25th in near perfect conditions. But in recent years it has not been in nick very often - you just have to go and have a look and hope for the best. It is avalanche prone so best to avoid after a heavy unconsolidated dump. Ice pitches are short and steep but very enjoyable and you get great views back into the glen. Best time is mid week and an early start to avoid the crowds - when word get round it's in it gets busy.

In reply to Norrie Muir:


Relative, shirley?

In reply to Lbos:

Dear Lbos

Did you also find the route relatively easy as well?

Norrie