UKC

NEWS: Cesare Maestri's 1959 Cerro Torre ascent bogus

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 Michael Ryan 26 Jan 2006
Rolando Garibotti, Ermanno Salvaterra and Alessandro Beltrami climbed, alpine-style, the 37-pitch El Arca de los Vientos (Ark of the Winds) 5.11 A2 on the northern flank of Cerro Torre (3102m) and cast serious doubt on Cesare Maestri's claimed 1959 ascent of the North Face of Cerro Torre.

More in the news:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Doug 26 Jan 2006
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: I tthought the doubts were already very strong, remember reading something by Alan Heptonstall (who spoke Italian & worked in Rome for a while) way back more or less proving Maestri hadn't climbed the route
 Lbos 26 Jan 2006
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

The rotting compressor is still there tho, right?
Simon22 26 Jan 2006
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

Rcent article on this in Climb mag, seems like he was bullshitting.

Perhaps on his death bed be may tell the truth?
 S11 26 Jan 2006
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: See also page 8 of Feb 06 issue of Climb magazine
 Mick Ward 26 Jan 2006
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

Hi Mick,

I know this controversy goes back decades and few believe in Maestri's ascent. But I still wish you'ld entitled this thread something like, "Further serious doubt cast on..." (I fully accept "NEWS... 'bogus'" is much snappier!)

Apart from the late Toni Egger (presumably), the only person who knows for sure whether Maestri topped out is the man himself. And until, he says otherwise, there is a slender threat of innocence. Perhaps I'm being too gentlemanly but I'd prefer to give him the benefit of the doubt. (And if he's bothered/got a hotshot relative/laywer in Turin, or somewhere, you might be in trouble with that 'bogus'.)

Mick, I don't want to have a row with you. I'm stunned by the enormity and quality of the work you put into this site. Just some friendly thoughts...

All best wishes,

Mick
OP Michael Ryan 26 Jan 2006
In reply to Mick Ward:

Hi Mick.....I split the titles, (the news item is "Ark of the Winds blows more doubt on Maestri") although R+I seem to have no qualms about this being conclusive evidence.

Point taken though.

Thanks,

Mick
 mark1984 26 Jan 2006
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com:

didnt take long to find that out

 Marc C 26 Jan 2006
In reply to Mick - UKClimbing.com: Well they would, wouldn't they? They're from a rival Italian village. You should see the inter-village violence that flares up when they have their annual regional cheese competition.

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