UKC

Classic Peak Bouldering Ticks (english 6a ish and below)

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mrsmesh 03 Apr 2006
Hi,

I'm planning on doing a two day bouldering trip on Thursday to the Peak and was hoping to tick as many classic bouldering problems as possible. I've got a guide, just after some suggestions that people have done around the english 6a grade category and below. It doens't matter where the problem is, I'm willing to travel around, I have plenty of time! Thanks for the suggestions, sorry if this has been done before. Al
 The Pylon King 03 Apr 2006
In reply to mrsmesh:

Crescent arete and pebble arete (stanage) - both superb
 Oli 03 Apr 2006
In reply to The Pylon King: Not To be taken away is about english 6a i think. Make sure you have a spotter though.
mrsmesh 03 Apr 2006
In reply to Oli and The Pylon King:

Thanks, those little problems are definitely on my tick list. Cheers, AL
 Simon 03 Apr 2006
In reply to mrsmesh:

Banana Finger - Burbage North
The 6a at Go West area - Burbage west
The Arch - Burbage South
Pock Man - B.S
The Ears problem - Owler Tor
Technical Master - Millstone
The arete left of Joes problem Froggatt
The arete on the lone block - Robin hoods stride left hand
The Egg - Cratcliffee

and many others!!

good luck

si
 Oli 03 Apr 2006
In reply to Simon: Isn't technical master eng 6b? or have i just been kidding myself?
banned profile 74 03 Apr 2006
In reply to Oli: technical master is desperate lol

isnt ntbta 6b too???

all quiet on the eastern front
definative 5.12(grade??)
the chant(boulder problem not a route!!)



rich

Dru 03 Apr 2006
In reply to mrsmesh:

Staffs flyer, Doxey pool - Roaches has to be on that tick list, the Newstones has a few gems, Ripple is proper bo.
In reply to mrsmesh:

I have just gone through the guide and there are just so many! The best areas at these grades are around the lone boulder to crescent arete. Burbage South boulders, Burbage North, RHS & cratcliffe and The trackside boulder at Curbar. The Buckstone is great fun and dries quickly.
In reply to Dru: Surely both English 6b?
Dru 03 Apr 2006
In reply to Richard Bradley:

Ok maybe just.
palomides 04 Apr 2006
In reply to mrsmesh:

Joe's original on the slab at Froggatt is probably more classic than the arete. But Froggatt is a bit thin on classic boulder problems compared to the density at places like Stanage, Burbage.

For a long day, how about doing the Burbage Valley - all 6a or below:
Burbage Bridge for a quick warm-up, then...
Burbage North (Banana Finger, Sphyinx Arete)
Burbage South (Pockman, Tiger)
Secret Garden (The traverse probably doesn't have any single move harder than 6a)
Mother Cap (have a go at Conan - probably 6b but you'll be well warmed up)
Owler Tor (I think there's some good stuff, can't remember anything really classic tho)
Higgar Tor (The big triangular slab)
Burbage West (that groove thing on the buttress left of West Side Story)
Then ice-cream.

If it rains then bouldering fun can still be had on the limestone - Rubicon, Raven Tor, maybe Stoney.
 simonp 04 Apr 2006
In reply to mrsmesh:

There are some good circuits around the Roaches for a full day of lower grade classics. Then, Robin Hood's Stride & Cratcliffe is just 25mins away if you've got skin left.
mrsmesh 04 Apr 2006
In reply to palomides:

Cheers mate, thats a good list to have a go at. Al
 Joe Costello 04 Apr 2006
In reply to mrsmesh: Don't bother with tiger or packman at burbage south theyre pretty damn poor. Burbage North is probably the place i would think, just start at route 1 and work your way along soloing everything. Remergence is proabably about 6a?
Yorkspud 04 Apr 2006
In reply to mrsmesh:

Forget all that trashed peak stuff and come up to Yorkshire...hang on, maybe not if I follow my own logic.
hugedyno 04 Apr 2006
In reply to Richard Bradley:
> (In reply to Dru) Surely both English 6b?

No. Old Skool English 6a. Sly Stallone is 6b ( albeit, ' easy ' ).

Best of Western Grit IMHO are :

1) Staffs Flyer
2) Persistance
3) Ripple
4) Joe's Arete
5) Three Pocket Slab
6) Finger of Fate *
7) Charlie's Overhang *
8) The Long Traverse
9) Marxist Undertones *
10)Fielder's Corner

* Highball

HD.

mrsmesh 04 Apr 2006
In reply to hugedyno:

Thanks for the list, definitely going to give some of those a crack. Al
banned profile 74 04 Apr 2006
remergence is a tough 6a!!!!lol


rich
 Oli 04 Apr 2006
In reply to beastofackworth: I haven't found technical master that hard. Once you know the sequence, it is a piece of piss. Only problem is, i keep getting to the big jug and sloping top and don't really commit. I need to go back and finish it.
franks wild years 04 Apr 2006
In reply to mrsmesh:

I'd have to add in 'joe's arete' at the roaches too



fwy
 Dale Berry 05 Apr 2006
In reply to Simon:
> (In reply to mrsmesh & others)
>

> Pock Man - B.S

I found Lazy Trout and Two Pocket Slab at the end of the Skyline more rewarding. Flight Exam is good too, though easier.

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