/ NEW ARTICLE: Dave MacLeod, Rhapsody, E11: THE REPORT
Because of the very high technical difficulty and the danger, I thought a tentative E11 7a was warranted.
Read more in 'Dave MacLeod, The Modern Traditionalist – E11'.
pox, and he's two years younger than me.
Are you sure he boulders at font 8C mick? Don't you mean 8B?
He's done Marcus Brock's Armstrong, which is 8c.
'tis a route though, not a boulder problem.
Just Scottish winter XI, Font 8B, 3rd ascent of Breathless.
Will Mr MacLeod ease up now and be happy with his lot or go onto even more unbelievable stuff?
Time I got back out and did some climbing.
Ah. Fair point, well made.
If I've imagined this he's still capable, but wasn't there some swiss font 8c thing?
Woah, woah, woah ... lets not forget Rich Simpson.
These are all boulder problems. He has done sport 8c on Dumbuck.
Repeated falls up to 70' onto an RP! Wow.
Whatever one calls it, trad, sprad, headpoint, whatever the grade turns out to be, this has got to be one of the world's most impressive single pitch first ascents ever.
congrats mr macleod. amazing stuff. looking forward to seeing the vid.
Which is to say he might have actually undergraded it at E11 and his E9s are probably E10 !
I guess it will take a while for enough repeats to find out.
Good to read proper information about such an impressive ascent. There are also detailed but different reports on ScottishClimbs.com, Planetfear.com and CubbyImages.
As for the ascent itself, awesome stuff, the man is a legend. Sound bloke and an inspiringly cutting edge climber, you can see to total dedication and love of climbing.
I like the way it mirrors Requiem as the hardest trad route when it was done and the "other" direct finish, Alchemie Scotland's first E9. A certain "neatness" there.
Just one question - in terms of physical difficulty, is it really only 7a tech?
You not better waiting until El Diablo is fit enough to hold your falls?
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