UKC

Sports Climbing - Quickdraw damage??

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Dave86 23 Apr 2006
Hi, I have just started sports climbing and was wondering if a fall on a bolted route would damage the quickdraws more quickly than if I was to fall on wires on a trad route?
Cheers!
Dave
Removed User 23 Apr 2006
In reply to Dave86:

For the same distance of fall probably, but only slightly, because a sport climbing system is likely to be less dynamic; bolts don't settle (or rip!) like trade gear, you may be using a single rope not doubles, for sport you may be using a gri gri, as bolts are in straight line force only on top and bottom draws on a weavy trad route force may be applied to more gear as the rope pulls tight.

Anyway, that said, it is not worth worrying about, the difference is likely to be very small, and quickdraws are extremely strong.

Hope this helps

Fraser
 Paul Robertson 23 Apr 2006
In reply to Dave86: Some types of bolt and peg can cause nicks and burrs where the karabiner comes into contact with the bolt, particularly if you are working a bolted route.
Make sure you always use the same end of the quickdraw for the bolt so that the rope never comes into contact with a sharp edge.
In reply to Removed User:
Thanks - this is a great help!

Dave
 TobyA 23 Apr 2006
In reply to Dave86:
> (In reply to fraserhughes)
> Thanks - this is a great help!

Fraser's answer is only a great help if you want the wrong advice. Paul gave you the right information: there are two major types of bolts - the glue in type which are made of more rounded metal and don't damage krabs much, and then expansion bolts with a seperate hanger held on by a nut which do tend to nick the inside of the top krab. (Good pics of different types here: http://www.safercliffs.org/code/bolt_guide.html )

It won't make the krabs weaker to any important degree but can damage rope sheafs so have seperate gear and rope krabs.
Removed User 23 Apr 2006
In reply to TobyA:

Hang on a second, please explain why my advice is wrong!

I agree pauls point is actual more important than anything I've said (I must confess I'd forgot about it), however I'm sure what i've said is factual correct.
 TobyA 23 Apr 2006
In reply to Removed User: So if I said your advice was completely irrelevant as opposed to wrong, that would have made you feel better?

But still, I don't really think those things you mention would have any real impact on QDs (be that the krabs or the tape sling) that you could call "damage". Unless the krab gets bent against the rock in someway during a fall - I don't think you "damage" the QD even in big falls.

This is really interesting on this subject: http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp.php

cheers, Toby.
Removed User 23 Apr 2006
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to fraserhughes) So if I said your advice was completely irrelevant as opposed to wrong, that would have made you feel better?

Aye, it would

My original post was probably badly worded, I was just trying to think of/explain ways a trad system is different to a sport one, I did say it wasn't worth worrying about.

Agreed it is an interesting topic though.
 Burnsie 24 Apr 2006
In reply to Removed User:

Your post was totally misleading .... the only "damage" issue with bolt climbing is the nicks in the crabs.

This has only recently become an issue with the introduction of wire gate crabs - before you always used the curved gate crab for the rope end.

Gear manufacturers and now switched on to this issue and have started making quickdraws with 2 different coloured crabs - i.e. Wild Country = red for rope !

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