UKC

The exploits of the soloist Mike Reardon and the race for the Matterhorn between Carrel and Whymper give Arno Ilgner a chance to discuss expectations, our past experiences, motivation and learning.

"Reardon reported that he soloed 280 routes at Joshua Tree with several rated 5.12/5.13. After posting this on a climbing website, detractors quickly posted their doubts. What’s interesting is not whether or not he did it, but the expectations people had about what was possible. 280 routes done in that style is quite a feat and not something that happens every day. So what seems normal and to be expected is very different than what Reardon accomplished."

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=190

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Im not really sure what the main point of this article is.

Unfortunately he gets several of his facts wrong about the mnatterhorn - he consistently refers to the Zmutt ridge when in fact he means the Lion ridge. This was eventually ascended by Carrel the week after Whymper got up the Hornli. The Zmutt wasnt attempted until much later and was first ascended in 1879 I think. Also, on descending, the people in fron weren't four "clients" - one was Michel Croz who according to Whymper was just about the best guide in the alps. They were let dow naccording to Whymper by the most inexperienced member of the team slipping and puling the rets off. Also I think the allegations were that one of the Taugwalders used a weaker rope between then and the four in front (they had a stronger rope in their bag not being used) than they should have done, rather than actually cut the rope.

I am beinga bit nit-picky I suppose. The photos of Reardon are very impressive.

In reply to Si dH:

Thanks for the fact checking Si. I'll let Arno know.

M

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Your welcome
I finished Whymper's book "Scrambles inthe alps" only last week so and a considerable portion of this is all about the matterhor nascent, hence me noticing the errors. A very book it is (for the most part) too.

In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

A confused article. Of course we're limited by expectations, but better examples could be given.
As to Reardon, I thought he had witnesses. The 'detractors' I gather were mostly saying he was nuts rather than doubting he did it. http://rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?topic=59695&forum=33

In reply to Witkacy:

There still seem to be a lot of detractors. This is one of my favourites ... I'm surprised it hasn't had more discussion in the UK:

.... he commences to tell us how he just got back from the Brittish Isles claiming to have on-sighted, solo of course, all the Brits "headpoint" test piece routes claiming them as lite and the brits as weak!!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=123220#msg123822