UKC

King kong, what grade do you reccon?

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 Kerm 02 May 2006
At Wintours. Gets HVS in the guide but after the rock fall i fear it may have changed. what do you reccon? Desperate first pitch!
 Fume Troll 02 May 2006
In reply to Kerm: I thought you were going to ask what grade the outside of the Empire State building is.

Cheers,

FT.
 Moacs 02 May 2006
In reply to Kerm:

Still HVS. The start was always the hardest bit at 5b.

J
 nniff 02 May 2006
In reply to Kerm:

It's one of those desperate struggly things that I wouldn't care to grade. I don't think it matters if it's E1 or HVS - it will still be a desperate struggly thing - and a change in grade won't change the fact that the rest of the route if HVS

Personally, I'm glad I led the 2nd pitch
OP Kerm 02 May 2006
In reply to Fume Troll:
> (In reply to Kerm) I thought you were going to ask what grade the outside of the Empire State building is.

That goes a HS
 Fume Troll 02 May 2006
In reply to Kerm:

> That goes a HS

Nah, must be higher, a long bold route - he had no protection. Clean onsight solo for the big fella.

Cheers,

FT.
 GrahamD 02 May 2006
In reply to Kerm:

Is there still an abseil station in place ? there is a rather confusing notice at the bottom of the route saying its gone ?

For what its worth, I've not climbed it since the rockfall but looked at it Sunday and thought the bottom section looked too much like hard work !
 Nic 02 May 2006
In reply to Kerm:

Definitive E0...
 cragspud 02 May 2006
In reply to Fume Troll: Just cause he chose to solo does not change the grade. The grade is for onsight as well. So could be HS.

I think the choice to carry Fay Wray rather than a full rack was auducious but stylish. Lets see Alain Robert copy that one.
 phsharpy 02 May 2006
In reply to cragspud: it's being written up as E1 in the new guide because there's no rest before the groove.
 cragspud 02 May 2006
In reply to phsharpy: Where is the groove on the Empire State Building? And is that the Lower Manhatten Trad guide?
 BenTiffin 02 May 2006
In reply to Kerm: Did it last week. Felt like HVS in reality although that bottom groove is probably at the top end of the grade. The biggest hassle on it is the combination of dust and polish although the jans/layaways in the corner crack are good and the gear is bomber.

There are no ab bolts any more - they have been chopped. The third pitch is now completely climbable.

Ben
 GrahamD 02 May 2006
In reply to BenTiffin:

What is the approved descent now ? abseil off tat or walk off ?
 Fume Troll 02 May 2006
In reply to cragspud: Yeah, doesn't affect the grade, I was just admiring his style.

Cheers,

FT.
 cragspud 03 May 2006
In reply to GrahamD: What is the approved descent now ? abseil off tat or walk off ?




Shot down by the USAAF, anything else invaladates the onsight
 cragspud 03 May 2006
In reply to Fume Troll: Perhaps we should set up a RT Great Ape Meet?
 GrahamD 03 May 2006
In reply to BenTiffin:

The whole idea of the abseil bolts (as I remember) was because there were access difficulties with the top out in someones garden. I guess this isn't the case any more ?
 nniff 03 May 2006
In reply to BenTiffin:

>
> There are no ab bolts any more - they have been chopped.

Whose inspired idea was that?
 Al Evans 03 May 2006
In reply to nniff: I think it was Tony Penning that re climbed it, I think he thought it was not much different, but still offered E1.
 BenTiffin 03 May 2006
In reply to nniff: I'm guessing it was part of the whole Crocker clean-up operation. By cleaning the top pitch, and negotiating the access to walk off, it made the ab bolts a second best (and therefore unnecessary) option.

However, I noticed while doing Puma that there is still an ab station in place about 30ft to the left of the 1st belay of King Kong at the top of the 1st/2nd (not sure which) pitches on Kaiser Wall.

Ben
 BenTiffin 03 May 2006
In reply to GrahamD:I guess this isn't the case any more ?

Definitely not, just a 4a pitch and a walk along a path, through a gate, making sure you bolt you shut the bolt afterwards.

Ben
 Paz 04 May 2006
In reply to Al Evans:

I'm pretty sure he said HVS in t' rags?

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