UKC

Climbing walls and the affect on the crag environment

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 Kate 08 May 2006
Milton Keynes could really do with a dedicated climbing wall. Whilst working through the logistics of providing a climbing facility in the area, it became clear that we would be looking at enticing new climbers to the facility. I know that some of these would probably just stick to indoor climbing, but the majority of them would have been looking to climb outdoors in the future. There are new climbing walls opening all the time, so this only increases the amount people enterting the sport.

So do you think that indoor climbing walls are a bad thing for the outdoors? Also are 'indoor climbers' heading outdoors without real knowledge of what they are doing outdoors? (I have seen people before at crags not entirely sure what they are doing).
 Ridge 09 May 2006
In reply to Kate:

I don't think there's a correlation between the number of climbing walls and the number of people climbing outdoors. Based on no evidence whatsoever (!) I'd say that many climbing wall users who begin to climb at an indoor wall stay there. In many cases it's used as a gym, and many indoor climbers prefer to get in loads of technical 'gymnastic' routes rather than messing about with ropes, thrutching up a slimy green chimney, setting up a belay and the other inconveniences of climbing outdoors.
Stanage may be rammed full of climbers every Saturday, but many of the less accessible crags will see less traffic now than they did 20 years ago.
In reply to Ridge:

suits me, keep the walls busy and the crags quiet

Good times!

GLTMD
 Ian McNeill 09 May 2006
In reply to Kate:

sure has been an increse in people out side after walls - great why should people not be encourraged inspired to get out side - walls are a small part of the games we play while climbing..

If gridsville needs a wall go develop one - dont forget me either ... I'd want free entry once a month ! thanks..
 toad 09 May 2006
In reply to Kate: has a generation of wall trained climbers led to a higher standard of (considers words) technical competence, by which I don't mean climbing ability, but, for example, well built belays, methodical ropework. Not that older climbers are more dangerous, rather they've picked things up here and there from climbing with friends, rather than "doing the outside course" at the wall (from watching several people on the slabs and little tryfan a couple of weeks ago)
 Rob Naylor 09 May 2006
In reply to Ian McNeill:
> (In reply to Kate)
>
> sure has been an increse in people out side after walls - great why should people not be encourraged inspired to get out side - walls are a small part of the games we play while climbing..

You reckon? Maybe at "roadside" crags like Stanage, but a lot of the crags that take more than 15 minutes to walk to are seeing less and les traffic, IMO.
i.munro 09 May 2006
In reply to Kate:
> So do you think that indoor climbing walls are a bad thing for the outdoors? Also are 'indoor climbers' heading outdoors without real knowledge of what they are doing outdoors? (I have seen people before at crags not entirely sure what they are doing).

What I have noticed, is that climbing wall habits and attitudes are being carried outdoors and as a result many are unwilling to make the small efforts required to minimise damage to the rock.
The attitude seems to be that the rock is temporary or somehow repairable like a wall.
I feel the climbing wall managers could do a lot to help in this. For example by publicising the guidelines that the BMC has produced.

Ian





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