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Rock Shoe Quandry

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 Flicka 26 May 2006
Ok. Once again, I have gone through the toes of my climbing shoes, this time round Anasazi 5-10 velcros. My right toe has been suffering denting when I climb and more recently, my left has followed suit. It hasn't noticeably affected my climbing, well, except that greater degrees of pain are involved if I overuse said toe(s). Anyway, it really is time to replace them. Unfortunately, I can't afford to replace them like for like, which is a pity as I love them to bits. But then, it might be a good thing because it took bloody ages for them to get comfortable, they were crippling to begin with. Yesterday I went to Go Outdoors and tried on a variety of shoes, and of course the ones I liked turned out to be way out of my budget. So I am thinking of going back to Red Chilli (the Rock Run special offer ones). But then, I am a bit worried about buying shoes online because of not being able to fit them before buying and my feet are a nightmare to fit for. Usually the problem is, if they are small enough length-wise, they are too narrow and if they are large enough width-wise, they are too long.

So now the questions:
Which brands are good for wide feet?
Do Rock Pillars fall into the above category or would I be wasting my time going into Leamington to try them on?
Does sizing differ between pairs of shoes or if I find something in my size in a shop and then find the equiv. online cheaper, it is safe to assume they would fit?

Or does anyone have some anasazi 5-10s in size six that they bought and didn't fit them and want to get rid of them? Or 6.5? Or Chillis in a 5/5.5?
In reply to Flicka: I have fairly wide feet and i recently bought some Boreal Spiders which were excellent. They might be a bit pricey, but the boreal fit is good. My brother has exceptionally wide feet and he used to wear Red Chilli's without any problems.
Nao 26 May 2006
In reply to Flicka:
Sadly I do not have ladylike slim feet and they look more like short stubby cabbage patch doll ones.
I've used anasazi velcros but I just got the red 5.10 slippers (moccasyms I think they're called) and they're cool so far. I find them really comfortable. And they're cheaper than the anasazis. Some people don't like them but I really like them at the mo, better than the anasazis.
One thing is that you should get them in the smallest size you can fit into, because apparently they stretch a bit.
 UKC Forums 26 May 2006
This thread was started in the wrong forum and has now been moved.
Please could you try and post in the correct forum, it makes life easier for both users and moderators.

Forum descriptions - http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/info/forums.html
 Ram MkiV 26 May 2006
In reply to Flicka: Get resoles - cost 27quid from cheshire shoe repairs for stealth rubber (postal service). Or what about 5.10 anasazi slippers or Mocassyms - they're both only 50quid.
 Jon Greengrass 26 May 2006
In reply to Flicka:

My first thought is your current boots are too small.

> Which brands are good for wide feet?

5.10 ascents

> Do Rock Pillars fall into the above category or would I be wasting my time going into Leamington to try them on?

no idea

> Does sizing differ between pairs of shoes or if I find something in my size in a shop and then find the equiv. online cheaper, it is safe to assume they would fit?


in my experience the quality control in sizing for rockboots is very poor, only buy boots you have tried on that are comfy.

Without meaning to patronize you, you do not climb hard enough to inflict yourself with the pain of tight rockboots. Unless you are a masochist?
 TN 26 May 2006
In reply to hereforded:

Muz has wide feet and gets on really well with Boreals too. Esp the (old) Pyros and Crux velcros.
johnny1 26 May 2006
In reply to Flicka:

i saw somebody on certain auction site was selling brand new anasazi slippers, size 6 for what seems like a very good price.
OP Flicka 26 May 2006
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

They were tight to start with but now are just right, so I imagine if I had got them larger to start with, they would have ended up baggy. The shop I got them from advised to go for tight for this reason.
Am thinking of going for an immediate comfort option i.e red chillis, have had them before and enjoyed them.
Would cost me 49.50£ to get them at local retailer or £35+pp online, so ending up around 10£ish more. I suppose if sizing is dodgy, as you say, then I would be best off visiting said retailer?
 Jon Greengrass 26 May 2006
In reply to Flicka:

Nothing wrong with baggy shoes, go for a fit that is close out with no pain when you jump about
 Oli 26 May 2006
In reply to TN: Boreals are good for wide feet, as I seem to have had quite a few pairs of them. Although I have been put off them because the new rubber wears far too quickly.
Nao 26 May 2006
In reply to Flicka:
Try them on in a shop to figure out sizes; you don't need to buy from that shop.
OP Flicka 26 May 2006
In reply to Nao:

I might be off to continue my research into this soon! =o)
 AlastairB 30 May 2006
To back up what most people here seem to be saying - I have very wide feet (heading towards sqaure) and I'm currently using a pair of Boreal Jokers which are seriously comfy. The only drawback is that they don't seem to smear as well as ome other shoes however that could be just my really shoddy technique . Previously had a pair of sausilitos which were a reasonable fit but disintegrated in about 6 months flat. Hope that helps.
In reply to Flicka: have oyu considered a resole?
 Marc C 30 May 2006
In reply to Flicka: I have a pair of Red Chili lace-ups size 6.
 kevin stephens 30 May 2006
In reply to AlastairB:

sportiva Katanas are very good for wide feet
 Oli 30 May 2006
In reply to AlastairB: Boreals are good for wide feet. My last 3 pairs have been boreal. I've now got some joker velcros and anasazi velcros which both fit well. I haven't had any problems with the jokers smearing, but they do seem to wear very quickly.
 Chesh 30 May 2006
In reply to Flicka:

I took a chance on the Rock Pillars from Rockrun.com and they fit like a dream, I wear them now in preference to my 5.10 Asanazis which are the same size but don't half hurt after a bit. I find Red Chilli's really comfortable straight from the box but it might be just me but they don't seem to last five minutes before the soles give out at the front.
sam the man 31 May 2006
In reply to Flicka: La Sportiva's are better for wide feet than 510's, I have the katana's which I highly reccommend. You could also try mad rock shoes-I've never tried them but they are pretty reasonable price wise, and they have been reccommended to me before-good hardweqaring but sticky rubber-should last longer than 5 10 or re3d chilli.
Sam
 rock ape 31 May 2006
In reply to Flicka: try them on as size varies loads between shoes of the same make and model.. I just bought some Red Chilli impact zone velcro from hill and dale near halifax. The guy in the shop let me try on every left and every right shoe in a size 10 in th e shop.. About 10 pairs until i got the best left and the best right to fit my feet.
Some of them were far too tight others too loose.

Best service i've ever had for buying rock shoes,
 Becky E 01 Jun 2006
In reply to Flicka:
> (In reply to Jon Greengrass)
>
> They were tight to start with but now are just right, so I imagine if I had got them larger to start with, they would have ended up baggy. The shop I got them from advised to go for tight for this reason.

I thought the point about Anasazis was that they're synthetic, so they *don't* stretch (unlike leather, whcih does).

I love my Anasazis, but next time I'll get them a size bigger cos they certainly haven't stretched!
 Becky E 01 Jun 2006
In reply to Chesh:

Hi Chesh!

Becky

PS I think Anasazis hurt cos the sizing's weird: mine are 1 1/2 sizes bigger than my normal shoesize, and still too small.
 Oli 01 Jun 2006
In reply to Becky E: They don't tend to stretch, but 'give' slightly around tight points. Like where the knuckles of toes press hard against the fabric.
 abarro81 01 Jun 2006
In reply to Becky E: I've found the lace-ups have stretched a little; much less than non-synthetics, but def a bit... the sizing for 5.10 is just very variable eg. mine are 10H but are larger than my mates 11!!!

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