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Very good! The goal seemed to be do some cleaning, do some climbing, and hang out with some other Lancs enthusiasts and I'd say it was a veritable success where all that was concerned. I personally had a good fun time doing a bit of all three and am psyched to go back to Egerton again to climb what I missed, and some of the newly cleaned routes.
What made it a good climbing meet...
Lots of good climbing of course!
Respite from the sun on shady buttresses.
Positive juggy climbing so although it was still warm it was fine to push things a bit.
Nice chilled atmosphere.
No interference with or from other crag users.
Good mix of people from people who hardly climb in Lancs to seasoned quarry veterans.
Options to clean routes to benefit others, climb them for pure fun, or indeed do a bit of both.
FREE and tasty BBQ courtesy of the BMC and chief chef Dittman.
A little meeting to find out what's going on in the Lancs area.
The obligatory refreshing pint afterwards.
What people did...
In no particular order except vaguely from Wood Buttress outwards - please write / add some more and credit yourself where I missed you off, sorry I don't know everything that went on .
Path down through the building was properly strimmed (Kate aka Strimmer Girl)
The impressive Wednesday Climb VS 4b * was thoroughly cleaned (cider nut)
Niff Niff The Guinea Pig E2 5b ** was cleaned (scott sadler) and immediately climbed twice (scott, Fiend)
God Save The Queen HVS 5a ** and Ten Minutes Before The Worm VS 4c ** had the last bits of grass cleaned (Anni)
Lubalin was thoroughly scrubbed and climbed (martin k)
A new route, Delusion E3 6a *, was climbed between Confusion and TMBTW (Fiend)
The recently cleaned Chalk Lightning Crack was climbed for the first time in years (martin k)
A path was cleared to the Lonely Wall area (Strimmer Girl)
Some landscaping beneath Lonely Wall (???)
A new route was heavily cleaned and later climbed up the groove left of Long Distance Runner (???)
A path was cleared to the Open Book area (Strimmer Girl)
Open Book E1 5b * had all the grass and brambles cleaned off it's lower ledges (Fiend)
The stream area beneath Open Book had a lot of tree debris removed (Les, Dave)
The "inner ring road" path that goes around the centre of the quarried had branches trimmed (Les)
The pile of rubbish beneath Cherry Bomb was removed (Fiend)
Most other obvious rubbish was removed apart from in the pool (???)
The end result...
More routes with more great climbing in good condition and perfect for summer weather.
Easier to get around the quarry on the various paths.
A more scenic place now most of the rubbish has been removed.
More people having fun on high quality quarried grit climbing.
...that is to say, it was good and convenient before - it's better and even more convenient now .
Finally, what still needs to be done...
Not a lot, and much of it is very obvious, there are a few proper jobs though:
Clear a proper path to Phantom Zone, Guillotine and the outlying areas.
Clear the Cherry Bomb descent.
Clear the very top of the Wood Buttress descent.
Clean up some of the remaining classics e.g. Guillotine, Phantom Zone Left, Falling Off The Edge Of The World, The Eleventh Hour etc.
A few more belay stakes might be useful.
Get as many of the tyres etc out of the pool.
...that's about it??
Well done everyone who turned up. Those who chose not to, a pity - but get in there and get some climbing done .
What made it a good climbing meet...
What people did...
In no particular order except vaguely from Wood Buttress outwards - please write / add some more and credit yourself where I missed you off, sorry I don't know everything that went on .
The end result...
...that is to say, it was good and convenient before - it's better and even more convenient now .
Finally, what still needs to be done...
Not a lot, and much of it is very obvious, there are a few proper jobs though:
...that's about it??
Well done everyone who turned up. Those who chose not to, a pity - but get in there and get some climbing done .
In reply to Fiend: well done all involved.. sorry i couldn't make it Fiend.. was otherwise engaged at the LAMM.. i'd like to get out on some lancs rock soon though! Well done all!
In reply to Fiend:
There's a couple of pictures in my gallery:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47406 Chalk Lightning Crack
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47408 General cleaning/climbing
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47409 Wednesday Corner
There's a couple of pictures in my gallery:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47406 Chalk Lightning Crack
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47408 General cleaning/climbing
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47409 Wednesday Corner
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Well worth going to if you like mid-grade wall climbing up cracks and crimpy edges - especially on a hot day when it's shade will be most beneficial (although there are some very sunny buttresses too).
Well worth going to if you like mid-grade wall climbing up cracks and crimpy edges - especially on a hot day when it's shade will be most beneficial (although there are some very sunny buttresses too).
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Ive got some inbetween ones Ill post later in the week, some show the amazing recovery of the route Sarah (the chimney sweep was cleaning.
A very sucessful and enjoyable day, great to be out in such good company doing something worthwhile and getting some awesome climbing in. Niff Niff the Guine pig needs 3 stars, the moves are fantastic!
Ive got some inbetween ones Ill post later in the week, some show the amazing recovery of the route Sarah (the chimney sweep was cleaning.
A very sucessful and enjoyable day, great to be out in such good company doing something worthwhile and getting some awesome climbing in. Niff Niff the Guine pig needs 3 stars, the moves are fantastic!
In reply to Fiend: You forgot to mention that there was a confirmed sighting of the Egerton Turtle in the pool beneath Chalk Lightning Crack...it's the size of a dinner plate. How does it survive, though?
In reply to martin k:
Could have been the highlight of the day....except I still haven't seen the bloody thing!
Could have been the highlight of the day....except I still haven't seen the bloody thing!
In reply to Fiend:
Looks like some good climbing, well done to everyone on their good works.
How hard is chalk lightning crack?
Looks like some good climbing, well done to everyone on their good works.
How hard is chalk lightning crack?
In reply to Jon Greengrass:
E2 5b ***, but without having done it (I cleaned it on ab tho), I would say E1 5b is probably closer as there are plenty of rest ledges on it and some gear in a thin crack inside the big crack before the offwidthy bit. martin might say different though
E2 5b ***, but without having done it (I cleaned it on ab tho), I would say E1 5b is probably closer as there are plenty of rest ledges on it and some gear in a thin crack inside the big crack before the offwidthy bit. martin might say different though
In reply to all: i wouldn't give it three stars...realistically it's a one star (but 'essential')experience...nowhere near as good as eg elder crack. the hard climbing is from where i am in the second picture to the point where you get your hands on the obvious 6 inch ledge...maybe no more than eight feet of climbing. if you don't have a big cam (camalot 5 or equivalent) then it would fully warrant E2+...the gear in the crack that fiend mentions wouldn't stop you hitting the ledge beneath my feet, which would be fairly spicy.
jeans would make a significant difference to the security of the knee jams.
cheers!
jeans would make a significant difference to the security of the knee jams.
cheers!
In reply to Fiend:
A good day indeed, I think fun was had by all parties, I didn't do any routes, all I did was rip two flappers on a campussy slanting shelf traverse on the upper tier. Other problems cleaned and climbed involved a nice arete left of the slantins shelf traverse, and on Wood Buttress I cleaned glass off the ledges to partake in some horizontal pleasure. The wall right of Insipidity gave a nice V0, which will be much harder once the jugs are eliminated, whioch would require either tenacity or boot rubber. unfortunately i had neither...
A good day indeed, I think fun was had by all parties, I didn't do any routes, all I did was rip two flappers on a campussy slanting shelf traverse on the upper tier. Other problems cleaned and climbed involved a nice arete left of the slantins shelf traverse, and on Wood Buttress I cleaned glass off the ledges to partake in some horizontal pleasure. The wall right of Insipidity gave a nice V0, which will be much harder once the jugs are eliminated, whioch would require either tenacity or boot rubber. unfortunately i had neither...
In reply to Fiend:
Great day at a great crag.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47452
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47455
Great day at a great crag.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47452
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=47455
In reply to andi_e:
The shelf pictured here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=27369
...Fun little problem. Some nice highballs to the left, I seem to remember. Which ones did you do? Also, I think the stuff to the right is a bit trickier, (though may have been damp when I was there), did you try any of that? Nice views across the quarry eh? A pleasant spot to relax in the sun.
Try anything under the bridge?
> (In reply to Fiend)
>
> A good day indeed, I think fun was had by all parties, I didn't do any routes, all I did was rip two flappers on a campussy slanting shelf traverse on the upper tier.
>
> A good day indeed, I think fun was had by all parties, I didn't do any routes, all I did was rip two flappers on a campussy slanting shelf traverse on the upper tier.
The shelf pictured here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=27369
...Fun little problem. Some nice highballs to the left, I seem to remember. Which ones did you do? Also, I think the stuff to the right is a bit trickier, (though may have been damp when I was there), did you try any of that? Nice views across the quarry eh? A pleasant spot to relax in the sun.
Try anything under the bridge?
In reply to robin mueller:
The prblem to the left, i.e. the wall with the chimney's arete, went at about V2, anmd a nice problem. That's all we did up there really, except a V3 eliminate, just using the arete holds. a straight through the middle of the traverse provided a good mantle too, and the finger crack from a sitter remains a project...
The prblem to the left, i.e. the wall with the chimney's arete, went at about V2, anmd a nice problem. That's all we did up there really, except a V3 eliminate, just using the arete holds. a straight through the middle of the traverse provided a good mantle too, and the finger crack from a sitter remains a project...
In reply to Fiend:
Let's have a bump of this given we've got some more hot weather forecast - http://www.meto.gov.uk/lib/includes/fsssi/city/rochdale.html - so this should be in good nick again and perfect for some shady respite rather than baking on the usual grit crags.
Let's have a bump of this given we've got some more hot weather forecast - http://www.meto.gov.uk/lib/includes/fsssi/city/rochdale.html - so this should be in good nick again and perfect for some shady respite rather than baking on the usual grit crags.
In reply to Fiend:
hey dude.
went last thurs rained again.
nice to see its cleaner than a year ago, still though wilton/anglezarke/Denham are better.
hey dude.
went last thurs rained again.
nice to see its cleaner than a year ago, still though wilton/anglezarke/Denham are better.
In reply to Fiend: Being shady, is Egerton midgey in the summer?
In reply to Bella:
Not that bad despite what one might think. I have been there on two muggy evenings and although there were some of the little bastards around it wasn't as bad as the natural grit outcrops for example. There are plentiful sunny areas if the shady bits are too midgy. I'd still pack some repellant though.
Not that bad despite what one might think. I have been there on two muggy evenings and although there were some of the little bastards around it wasn't as bad as the natural grit outcrops for example. There are plentiful sunny areas if the shady bits are too midgy. I'd still pack some repellant though.
In reply to balti boy:
Well I'm saying it how it is...
E.g. Friday lunchtime - Gouther crags in the lakes, not too muggy, quite exposed, we very nearly got midged off and used about half a can of repellent to stay alive.
Saturday evening - Egerton quarry, muggy, no breeze, there were a few midges but I didn't even need repellant.
*shrug* Other people's mileage may vary. Maybe it's closeness to the festering fleshpots of Bolton helps?
Well I'm saying it how it is...
E.g. Friday lunchtime - Gouther crags in the lakes, not too muggy, quite exposed, we very nearly got midged off and used about half a can of repellent to stay alive.
Saturday evening - Egerton quarry, muggy, no breeze, there were a few midges but I didn't even need repellant.
*shrug* Other people's mileage may vary. Maybe it's closeness to the festering fleshpots of Bolton helps?
In reply to Fiend:
HAHAHAHa
perhaps its my curry breath, that they love?
In the lakes this weekend at music festival loads of em, but then I may have been seeing things.
:0
HAHAHAHa
perhaps its my curry breath, that they love?
In the lakes this weekend at music festival loads of em, but then I may have been seeing things.
:0
In reply to balti boy: on reflection, i'd go back... i'm a sucker for punishment.
In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to balti boy)
> E.g. Friday lunchtime - Gouther crags in the lakes, not too muggy, quite exposed, we very nearly got midged off and used about half a can of repellent to stay alive.
>
Having been at Gouther in the evening a couple of weeks ago, I can appreciate the level of midginess you would have had on Friday. Luckily a breze picked up after 40min or so, but they were even following me up the route before that! >
In reply to The Pylon King:
I have just heard that 2k6 is "the year of battyness" so you'll fit right in!
Lots of potential for landscaping at Egerton...
I have just heard that 2k6 is "the year of battyness" so you'll fit right in!
Lots of potential for landscaping at Egerton...
In reply to Fiend: forgot to mention that i have a supply of very substantial ex-MOD tank stakes that need bashing in to quarry tops. got 3 in liverpool and about 20 in my mum's shed in south wales. any takers? i guess having the top-roping hordes at egerton would help clean the routes off a bit.
In reply to dominic_s:
Hmmm, could do with a couple more stakes, not sure where exactly apart from the right hand side of Wood Buttress needs one or two. Possibly stuff above Cherry Bomb and The Red Walls...
Hmmm, could do with a couple more stakes, not sure where exactly apart from the right hand side of Wood Buttress needs one or two. Possibly stuff above Cherry Bomb and The Red Walls...
Did anyone climb or inspect Nobody Wept For Alex Trench at the meet? It looks really good from the picture in Lancs Rock so I have always wanted to go and try it. Was just wondering what the gear was like on it? From the description it sounds like there are only 2 pegs on it and they were of dubious worth at the time of wrinting!?
In reply to JM:
Nope, no-one did that, nor any of the other harder routes. Was too hot for that sort of shennanigans I think. However there might be some information in this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=93043
I think I spoke to someone who said that pegs were a bit dodgy but not too bad.
Certainly an E5-arete-tastic quarry
Nope, no-one did that, nor any of the other harder routes. Was too hot for that sort of shennanigans I think. However there might be some information in this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=93043
I think I spoke to someone who said that pegs were a bit dodgy but not too bad.
Certainly an E5-arete-tastic quarry
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