UKC

8000m solo

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 joe j 23 Jun 2006
What has to be done for the ascent to be considered solo? You have to be alone I guess, so not roped to anyone else. In that case most people solo summit day don’t they? (for example on Everest, no one is roped up on summit day). Do you have to be unroped at all times from BC up? And what about using other peoples routes through icefalls (ladders, fixed lines ect)?

I’m talking specifically about 8000m peaks. I can understand how soloing is fairly clear-cut on an 8000m peak out of season (because you are the only one there), but “in season” they can get quite crowded.

Also how many of the 8000m peaks have been soloed? And how many people have soloed 8000m peaks?
In reply to joe j: imnsho solo of an 8000 metre peak owuld mean starting at base camp with a big ass pack. saying good bye and not having any human contact until you returned.
 dan cowley 23 Jun 2006
In reply to joe j:

Hey Joe,

Based on my limited knowledge, you must be completely independant on the mountain to claim a solo ascent.

Probably the best example of this is Goran Kropp in his 1996 Solo on Everest. He cycled from Sweden(?) to Kathmandu and then, with out a sherpa team or any outside assistance soloed everest.

He also avoided the mai route through the Khumbu icefall, making his own trail. On his summit day he also avoided the footsteps already on the ridge prefering to break his own trail.

This may be an extreme example but it is definately the best style of solo I have heard about.

Most solo climbers will make do with just being independant on the mountain ie, carrying all of their own equipment etc.

Hope this helps!
OP joe j 23 Jun 2006
In reply to :

Yeah, that helps. I imagined it would be something like that. Interesting to hear how much effort you have to go to to make it "truely" solo.

Any British solos yet?
In reply to joe j: i tihnk alan hinkes claimed to have soloed osme of his. but i am not sure how 'pure' they were. they deffinatley were not alpine style.

alison hardgreaves i tihnk soled everest.
Removed User 23 Jun 2006
In reply to dan cowley:
IIRC he did some serious soul searching about it being unsupported as a guy in Iraq did some welding on his bike....
 adnix 23 Jun 2006
In reply to joe j:

Get off the normal routes or normal dates if you want a true solo. For marketing purposes only just about anything will do, though.

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