UKC

I have been accepted for a position in Jena, Germany, which is in the 'province' Thuringen, so I am going to live there for at least 3 years.

Does anyone know how the climbing/mounteneeringen (I enjoy walking/scrambling as well) is around there? Do I need to sell my rack and find another hobby, or is there a chance to get some rock there (indoor walls don't count!!)?
I am afraid that the Germans don't have a 'British' ethics when it comes to bolting routes...

In reply to Arjen:
In reply to Arjen:
Don't be afraid, you don't have to sell your rack!
There's enough stuff in Thuringia. As a Saxon I'm not an expert in Thuringia, but I try to give you some hints.
There are several Sites (in German):
"http://kvfl.com/wp/"
"http://www.dav-felsinfo.de/html/index.php"
"http://www.cehceh.de/climb/thueringen/thueringerwald.html"
"http://www.zbs-ilmenau.de/~frank/thueringen/gebiete/gebiete.html"
"http://www.climb.spider-net.de/thueringen/"
"http://www.climbing.de/"
Here you'll find also infos about guidebooks.
What do you mean with "I am afraid that the Germans don't have a 'British' ethics..."? As far as I know, most of the routes in Thuringia are either bolted, have rings or allow self-belaying with wires, cams and so on.
Cheers Karsten

In reply to Arjen:

There is a girl here at work who climbs and she is from Jena, will ask her when she gets in.
She have only just started climbing so probably dont know lol

In reply to Karsten:

Cheers for the sites! My German is not too bad, but reading is a little slow (long time no see etc...).I'll have a look.

"As far as I know, most of the routes in Thuringia are either bolted, have rings or allow self-belaying with wires, cams and so on."
Exactly, bolting routes is bad ethics, with the only exeption of abseil bolts where no other abseil points are available, and of quarries (already man-made) with good climbing potential, but no natural protection.
Putting bolts on mountain routes is not very nice IMHO. Use yer rack. (I think I turned quite quickly into a half 'Englishman' concerning climbing...)

@Mik, please ask, maybe she knows of clubs in town there? I'll be doing a PhD there, so probably waaay to busy to climb anyway...

In reply to Karsten:

Hey, a quick question - is 'Haken' the German word for 'bolt'?

In reply to Arjen: Yes "Haken" means "bolt".
For more translations of climbing terms please have a look at "http://www.rockfax.com/publications/miniguides/item.php?id=83". There you find a "dictionary", I did for Rockfax guide books.
Cheers Karsten

In reply to mik:

yep she didnt have a clue, but she is going back to Jena in 3 weeks time, so if you find some good spots she would like to know.

In reply to mik:

I won't be of much help for the mo, as I'll only start end september! However, here ( http://kvfl.com/wp/klettern-in-thueringen/7 ) are all the crags in Thuringen listed.
The closest to Jena will be rabenschuessel: http://kvfl.com/topo/rabenschuessel/rabenschuessel.pdf

Looks like a massive bouldering venue...

I think thuringen is also quite close to the czechian (sp???) mountains, I have no cleu how they look like, but according to ill-informed sources are they nice and spiky...

Cheers Karten for the dictionary, thats really helpfull!
My German is shite, I am looking for a room, and come across all sorts of abbreviations I can't find anywhere...

I noticed that in Germany they really don't like the use of chalk - so what do you guys use - the stuff that doesn't leave white spots on the rock?

In reply to Arjen:

looking at your origional post, i would suggest you forget 'british ethics' while living over there and adapt to how the climbers there have decided to use their rock.

i moved over to germany for a few years with the mindset that bolts are wrong, but then i ran out of climbing partners and didn't enjoy it until i 'converted'. when in rome and all that.

have fun

In reply to Arjen:
Oops! Befor you climb in Czech you should visit the quarries near Leipzig and Wurzen or come to "Elbsandstein" near Dresden! The Czech Part of Elbsandstein (nearest Czech rock for you) is about 50 km from Dresden!
Use of chalk: very different situation, in "Elbsandstein" (German part) there's neither chalk nor pof allowed. We wipe off the sweat on our shirts or trousers.
In Sport climbing areas it depends mostly on the owner. But sure, you'll find some information signs there if chalk is forbidden.
Cheers Karsten

In reply to Karsten:

I ment visiting Czechia for mounteneering reasons - walking/scrambling up mountains, I read that most routes there are bolted, and no longer then double pitch... I wonder if there are long mountain routes (things I enjoy most) out there!

Of course I need to adapt to the way how the Germans use their rock... but I'll surely miss the trad-'feel' of climbing.

In reply to Arjen:
Hm, sorry I never visited the Grit until now (because no time and money). But I'm sure if you visit the "Elbsandstein" you get to know what real German trad climbing means: no bolts, few rings and belay mostly self placed.
You're right, there are only Sandstone areas in North Bohemia, also smaller areas with other kind of stone.
Cheers Karsten