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if so .. I've got a question for you!
you set the wall at the Reebok in Canary Wharf. There's a yellow 6A+ on the first rope that's got everyone stumped (at least how to climb it at that grade!)...
if you recall it, it's about halfway up, a big move upto the left just over the bulge?
what's the bloody move steve!
it's the only 6A or 6B i can't get near...
you set the wall at the Reebok in Canary Wharf. There's a yellow 6A+ on the first rope that's got everyone stumped (at least how to climb it at that grade!)...
if you recall it, it's about halfway up, a big move upto the left just over the bulge?
what's the bloody move steve!
it's the only 6A or 6B i can't get near...
In reply to mattjames:Try Planet Fear.
In reply to mattjames: Oh come on - you really expect a route setter to remember every move? The easy answer is that he probably got the grade wrong, and it is really 6b+ or something. It happens!
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC: Either that or Matt's a punter and all the other 6As are really 4+
In reply to graeme jackson:
who asked you lot?
If Steve sees this, he'll know the move I mean.
as for the rest of you ... sharrup!
who asked you lot?
If Steve sees this, he'll know the move I mean.
as for the rest of you ... sharrup!
In reply to mattjames: He sets at Rochdale as well. He will have done it in his trainers while carrying a nut key. How can someone who climbs that hard know what is 6a and 6b+?
In reply to Richard Bradley:
um .. well if he can't tell what a 6a or 6b is, maybe he's not the best guy to set routes for punters like me... ah well.
um .. well if he can't tell what a 6a or 6b is, maybe he's not the best guy to set routes for punters like me... ah well.
In reply to mattjames: It's a pretty easy move but I'm not Steve.
In reply to mattjames: I'm off on holiday soon, but:
You should be:
RH: hold below the bulge
LH: off and balancing
RF: anywhere directly below RH
LF: anywhere that feels okay
Move LF up as high as you can get it while staying on.
RF goes into the fingery feature next to RH. LF moves up, out and parallel to RH/RF. Rock over onto RF, using LF to keep you on. Take RH off as you stand and reach with LH for the next hold. It's all gravy from there.
Hope that helps dude, good luck!
You should be:
RH: hold below the bulge
LH: off and balancing
RF: anywhere directly below RH
LF: anywhere that feels okay
Move LF up as high as you can get it while staying on.
RF goes into the fingery feature next to RH. LF moves up, out and parallel to RH/RF. Rock over onto RF, using LF to keep you on. Take RH off as you stand and reach with LH for the next hold. It's all gravy from there.
Hope that helps dude, good luck!
In reply to irving:
irving... thank you, my man.
when you get back from hols, i'll be the guy doing that route with his eyes shut.
have a great one!
irving... thank you, my man.
when you get back from hols, i'll be the guy doing that route with his eyes shut.
have a great one!
In reply to mattjames:
interesting stuff on this site. Man I'm sorry about the route, looks like I got the move a little wrong. I can't remember it at all, set all the routes there and since then set at a bunch of other places too. It could be there is a cunning toe or heel hook or something as that wall is so featured, but I probably just messed up. How were the rest of the routes for future reference?
cheers
ste
interesting stuff on this site. Man I'm sorry about the route, looks like I got the move a little wrong. I can't remember it at all, set all the routes there and since then set at a bunch of other places too. It could be there is a cunning toe or heel hook or something as that wall is so featured, but I probably just messed up. How were the rest of the routes for future reference?
cheers
ste
In reply to mattjames: Steve McClure posts on here as John Rushby, which is the only name John Rushby never posts as
In reply to mattjames:
More generally, what are people's views on the Reebok wall? I was thinking of joining, as it looks a little more interesting than bouldering at Mile End (and presumably is air conditioned?)
Nic
More generally, what are people's views on the Reebok wall? I was thinking of joining, as it looks a little more interesting than bouldering at Mile End (and presumably is air conditioned?)
Nic
In reply to Nic:
It's ok for a while, until you've done everything. Routes don't get changed often enough (one reason I quit) and (at least while I was there) were pretty easy. I've been told by a mate that grades have stiffened so that may have changed now.
There wasn't much of an atmosphere - lot's of newbies, not many decent climbers. The features were quite good for doing circuits on though - I used to do a lot of fingery pocket stuff when I was a member.
The gym itself is very good for general weight training and cardio.
It's ok for a while, until you've done everything. Routes don't get changed often enough (one reason I quit) and (at least while I was there) were pretty easy. I've been told by a mate that grades have stiffened so that may have changed now.
There wasn't much of an atmosphere - lot's of newbies, not many decent climbers. The features were quite good for doing circuits on though - I used to do a lot of fingery pocket stuff when I was a member.
The gym itself is very good for general weight training and cardio.
In reply to mattjames:
you cannot be serious man!
Dont you think a world class sport climber has better shit to do than remember the "crux moves" of a 6a indoor route he put up
you cannot be serious man!
Dont you think a world class sport climber has better shit to do than remember the "crux moves" of a 6a indoor route he put up
In reply to jazzyjackson:
but the thing is that Steve McClure *has* just appeared (ste mac) above and has taken the time to respond.
no need to shout at people.
but the thing is that Steve McClure *has* just appeared (ste mac) above and has taken the time to respond.
no need to shout at people.
In reply to CJD: yeah haha jizzyjackson....always a good idea to read the thread before making a tit of yourself.
In reply to CJD:
don't think that was steve mcclure in fairness .. but heh, you don't ask, you don't get.
if you ever speak to a premiership footballer and ask them about a goal they scored five years ago, they'll tell which foot they hit it with, where the ball went in the net and who the two defenders they skipped over were.
plenty of great sportsmen have incredible recall on these sorts of things.
so maybe it's not such a dumb thing to ask.
however, in my book, there's nothing more stupid than some smartarse shouting off from the sidelines (or Edinburgh - which is pretty much the same thing)
don't think that was steve mcclure in fairness .. but heh, you don't ask, you don't get.
if you ever speak to a premiership footballer and ask them about a goal they scored five years ago, they'll tell which foot they hit it with, where the ball went in the net and who the two defenders they skipped over were.
plenty of great sportsmen have incredible recall on these sorts of things.
so maybe it's not such a dumb thing to ask.
however, in my book, there's nothing more stupid than some smartarse shouting off from the sidelines (or Edinburgh - which is pretty much the same thing)
In reply to mattjames:
check this thread for more ste mac postings (you have to scroll through). sounds like one and the same to me.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=154528&v=1#2190648
> (In reply to CJD)
>
> don't think that was steve mcclure in fairness .. but heh, you don't ask, you don't get.
>
> don't think that was steve mcclure in fairness .. but heh, you don't ask, you don't get.
check this thread for more ste mac postings (you have to scroll through). sounds like one and the same to me.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=154528&v=1#2190648
In reply to mattjames:
> if you ever speak to a premiership footballer and ask them about a goal they scored five years ago, they'll tell which foot they hit it with, where the ball went in the net and who the two defenders they skipped over were.
>
That's cos they hardly ever score goals in football. The idea is to run to the other end of the field then pass the ball to someone in a different coloured shirt who will then repeat the move in the opposite direction. >
In reply to jazzyjackson: Another fair point
In reply to jazzyjackson:
unless it's Wayne Rooney - in which case, he'll tell you exactly which bollock he was aiming for with the heel of his left foot.... ARF!
unless it's Wayne Rooney - in which case, he'll tell you exactly which bollock he was aiming for with the heel of his left foot.... ARF!
In reply to mattjames:
Errr... how would he know the wall was so heavily feature - which btw were exactly the words he used to me when I saw him down Reebok setting the routes a while back.
> (In reply to CJD)
>
> um .. not convinced, but who knows.
> Yours sincerely,
> George W Bush.
>
> um .. not convinced, but who knows.
> Yours sincerely,
> George W Bush.
Errr... how would he know the wall was so heavily feature - which btw were exactly the words he used to me when I saw him down Reebok setting the routes a while back.
In reply to graeme jackson:
but you're not telling me that Steve McClure couldn't give you a hold by hold description of hundreds of routes he's climbed - surely?
in any case - where's the harm in askin'?!
god, you're all so anal on this site...
but you're not telling me that Steve McClure couldn't give you a hold by hold description of hundreds of routes he's climbed - surely?
in any case - where's the harm in askin'?!
god, you're all so anal on this site...
In reply to mattjames: you're confusing me with JIzzy jackson who is also in edinburgh but much younger.
In reply to SARS:
yeah? he didn't happen to tell you the bloody move on that yellow route while you were chatting, I don't suppose?!?
yeah? he didn't happen to tell you the bloody move on that yellow route while you were chatting, I don't suppose?!?
In reply to mattjames:
It was before those routes were set. He set the routes prior to those as well.
Try the central crack features which leads into a buttress past the overhang for some good training.
It was before those routes were set. He set the routes prior to those as well.
Try the central crack features which leads into a buttress past the overhang for some good training.
In reply to mattjames:
Are you a moron? Why would you want to insult me. Tosser.
> (In reply to graeme jackson)
>
> sorry graeme - it was SARS I meant to reply to
>
> sorry graeme - it was SARS I meant to reply to
Are you a moron? Why would you want to insult me. Tosser.
In reply to SARS:
sorry mate - think you've got your wires crossed. or I have.
either way, didn't mean to insult you.
I simply was telling graeme that I hit the reply button on the last posting (his) when I'd meant to hit your button to reply ask about the yellow route.
So relax....
sorry mate - think you've got your wires crossed. or I have.
either way, didn't mean to insult you.
I simply was telling graeme that I hit the reply button on the last posting (his) when I'd meant to hit your button to reply ask about the yellow route.
So relax....
In reply to mattjames:
have I missed something? just been pulled up on email for not answering someone's question, but I can't see one...
have I missed something? just been pulled up on email for not answering someone's question, but I can't see one...
In reply to mattjames:
Outside, almost certainly.
But indoors? It's not like it's real climbing...
> you're not telling me that Steve McClure couldn't give you a hold by hold description of hundreds of routes he's climbed - surely?
Outside, almost certainly.
But indoors? It's not like it's real climbing...
In reply to Simon Caldwell: I'll bite..
Climbing 7's indoors is more like real climbing than most sub-VS (and lots of VS) climbs outdoors imho.
Climbing 7's indoors is more like real climbing than most sub-VS (and lots of VS) climbs outdoors imho.
In reply to mattjames:
I think Steve's got alot better things to be doing with his time besides browsing climbing forums, loggin his climbs on the 8a web-site is prob all he has time for.
I think Steve's got alot better things to be doing with his time besides browsing climbing forums, loggin his climbs on the 8a web-site is prob all he has time for.
In reply to Souljah: haha this thread is funny!
Souljah- the climber in question responded earlier in the thread
Souljah- the climber in question responded earlier in the thread
In reply to ste mac:
Hey ste - and i hope it is you! - thanks for the response.
i love the new wall, much harder than last time (did you set that one too?) and no worries about the yellow route ... life would be oh so dull without a few inconsistencies!
anyway, thanks for taking the trouble to respond and good luck.
matt
Hey ste - and i hope it is you! - thanks for the response.
i love the new wall, much harder than last time (did you set that one too?) and no worries about the yellow route ... life would be oh so dull without a few inconsistencies!
anyway, thanks for taking the trouble to respond and good luck.
matt
In reply to ste mac: Some cracking new problems at Rochdale by the way.
gosh there are some daft monkeys around this here place.
In reply to mattjames:
matt. cheers, the feedback is useful, I sometimes get the grades wrong at all levels but rarely hear about it, though guess as long as the route is ok it doesn't matter so much if its a little out. It would be handy if the walls had an informal way of altering grades depending on general consensus (some do) as all route setters mess up abit.
matt. cheers, the feedback is useful, I sometimes get the grades wrong at all levels but rarely hear about it, though guess as long as the route is ok it doesn't matter so much if its a little out. It would be handy if the walls had an informal way of altering grades depending on general consensus (some do) as all route setters mess up abit.
In reply to ste mac:
agree completely - but trouble with the reebok is that there isn't really anyone on the staff who knows much about climbing.
as you say, the grades thing is really just a side issue - the important thing is the new routes are tougher than last time and interesting... so thanks for that.
(eh..ste.. let me know whwn you're coming back and I'll buy you a coffee and tell you where you're going wrong.... ARF!!)
agree completely - but trouble with the reebok is that there isn't really anyone on the staff who knows much about climbing.
as you say, the grades thing is really just a side issue - the important thing is the new routes are tougher than last time and interesting... so thanks for that.
(eh..ste.. let me know whwn you're coming back and I'll buy you a coffee and tell you where you're going wrong.... ARF!!)
In reply to Jus:
anyone in particluar? Steve McClure, for instance? (who's posted three times on this discussion) ...
some ARROGANT monkeys.. that's for sure...
anyone in particluar? Steve McClure, for instance? (who's posted three times on this discussion) ...
some ARROGANT monkeys.. that's for sure...
This wall isn't on the data base, well I couldn't find it- where is it (aside from canary wharf) how much how good etc?
In reply to sithornhill:
wall is part of the Reebok Sports Centre - above Waitrose in Canada Place.
http://www.reeboksportsclublondon.com/home/index.php
As far as I know, you need to join the entire gym to play on the wall - and it's about £80 a month. For that you get free classes, a huge gym and good facilities. As for the wall - it's 13m and six routes wide. Autobelays. Never seen anyone top-roping or leading, but it is all bolted for that purpose.
Is it any good? Depends what you're after -
if you're after a wide variety of routes, great atmosphere, choice of bouldering, difficulties, textures ... don't go anywhere near it.
if you're after a wall with guaranteed no-queues, no need for partner, and some hard climbing if you're up to it (see above!) ... it's probably the best venue in London.
wall is part of the Reebok Sports Centre - above Waitrose in Canada Place.
http://www.reeboksportsclublondon.com/home/index.php
As far as I know, you need to join the entire gym to play on the wall - and it's about £80 a month. For that you get free classes, a huge gym and good facilities. As for the wall - it's 13m and six routes wide. Autobelays. Never seen anyone top-roping or leading, but it is all bolted for that purpose.
Is it any good? Depends what you're after -
if you're after a wide variety of routes, great atmosphere, choice of bouldering, difficulties, textures ... don't go anywhere near it.
if you're after a wall with guaranteed no-queues, no need for partner, and some hard climbing if you're up to it (see above!) ... it's probably the best venue in London.
In reply to sithornhill:
A reasonable wall which would be much better if more thought and effort was put into it.
> This wall isn't on the data base, well I couldn't find it- where is it (aside from canary wharf) how much how good etc?
A reasonable wall which would be much better if more thought and effort was put into it.
In reply to mattjames:
err, not you for starting the thread and certainly not Steve for replying...
Just how people were oblivious to the fact that he replied!
err, not you for starting the thread and certainly not Steve for replying...
Just how people were oblivious to the fact that he replied!
In reply to Jus:
Hi Jus - Hows thangs?!
- was oop your old neck of the woods last week & wanted to explore spofforth (sp) as it looks like Mother Cap!
- had to settle wi Armscliff for the first time - great crag!
trust all is good?
si
Hi Jus - Hows thangs?!
- was oop your old neck of the woods last week & wanted to explore spofforth (sp) as it looks like Mother Cap!
- had to settle wi Armscliff for the first time - great crag!
trust all is good?
si
In reply to mattjames:
why would anyone doubt this to be the real steve mclure ?
while i know he is at the highest level in our chosen sport he like MOST other climbers isn,t up his own arse and seems to be a friendly/approachable chap (despite being from brotton!!)
jas@work
why would anyone doubt this to be the real steve mclure ?
while i know he is at the highest level in our chosen sport he like MOST other climbers isn,t up his own arse and seems to be a friendly/approachable chap (despite being from brotton!!)
jas@work
In reply to mattjames: Steve is one of the coaches on a course I'm doing in Kalymnos in Sept - I'll ask him for you shall I?
Lol
C
Lol
C
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