/ NEWS: Third solo of Seperate Reality 5.11d (Fr 7a), Yosemite
Absolutely amazing stuff!
Why, was there a ban on it? ;)
After seeing his solo of The Nose Im pretty sure that like Dan Osman his sands of time are going to cut abruptly short. Enjoy it while it lasts Dean!
One also must take into consideration the many roped ascents that are made on some of these routes before a solo ascent takes place . I heard for example that Dean had a thousand foot of rope hanging down the top part of the Nose on El Cap doing laps on it before his solo ascent. Pre knowledge of routes lowers the difficulty by at least two grades.Perhaps still impressive , but one rarely hears of all the preperation that these sponsored climbers often go through to achieve this required publicity. One see's photos of first free ascents of routes on El Cap with pre placed cams above the leader ... anyway it still seems to impress most climbers ,and those that write about it, and I guess that's what its all about.
Working the route lowers the grade by how much?!! Depending on which grading system you are referring to, the grade is for the easiest way up, it doesnt make any difference if you do it onsight or after working it...
>anyway it still seems to impress most climbers ,and those >that write about it, and I guess that's what its all about.
What utter rubbish, of course its bloody impressive and the guy would be dead/totally mad if they didn't do the preperation.
When I did the route, I recall thinking that a solo wouldn't be anything like as scary as it looked in the photos, and if you bailed off in control, you'd probably get away with a broken ankle or two. If you came off the lip (not the crux, as I recall) there is a chance you might roll out of the cave, but a spotter tied into your obligatory ab - rope would be able to save you - were spotters used, I wonder? Also worth pointing out that placing the gear is the most strenuous part of the climb, I failed it placing the gear, but found it quite straight-forward with the gear in place.
Compared to soloing on El Cap (involuntary shudder), soloing Separate Realisty is a boulder traverse...
"You've got to ask yourself one question: 'Do I feel lucky?'"
...only 5.11d...flashed as long ago as 1981...can't be that hard...
"Well, do ya punk?"
Any idea about the rumors that it was Potter that left the fixed ropes all the way up the South Face of Mt. Watkins for eighteen months?
Wasn't Dean's solo of Separate Reality reported Rock and Ice, about a month ago?
> Working the route lowers the grade by how much?!! Depending on which grading system you are referring to, the grade is for the easiest way up, it doesnt make any difference if you do it onsight or after working it...
I guess if you are just a bouderer it maybe difficult to understand. It means if you have worked, or done a climb numerious times, lets say a real climb that is "already" been graded 5.10, in my experience it begins to feel like a 5.8 ...got it ?
> >anyway it still seems to impress most climbers ,and those >that write about it, and I guess that's what its all about.
> What utter rubbish, of course its bloody impressive and the guy would be dead/totally mad if they didn't do the preperation.
The above messages from Duncan and others seem to mitigate your "utter rubbish" comment
You do have a point mate.
An E7/8 climber should solo Seperate Reality, maybe like an E1/E2 climber soloing a V Diff which happens every day.
What nonsense! There's a huge difference between soloing a V Diff and 5.11 - E1 climbers would be able to hang on for hours until rescue arrives if in trouble on a V Diff. On a 5.11 roof crack you may have seconds before an enforced bale out if you hesitate or get gripped. And if you make a bad mistake, you may be flying head first :-o
All this smacks of sour grapes - I wonder why?
I've got the Huber book on Yosemite and there is a small caption inside that explains that many photos on 1st ascents are rubbish as that is not what they are concentrating on/logistics etc. Many are set up later, including some of Dean Potter soloing, to " show off " much better. Fair enough i reckon.
Basically I dont think this should be news.
The guy is a 5.13+ climber and he has soloed a 5.11d that was first soloed 20 years ago! Gullichs ascent was news worthy and Heinz Zacs was of interest as his photos of the original solo are so well known.
Mick, if you are going to start putting things like this in the 'news' then you should be reporting a lot more about the efforts of British climbers rather than American media/sponsor whores (meant in the nicest possible way as i've never met the guy and he is probably a decent bloke).
> Basically I dont think this should be news.
I respect your opinion but I have a broad interpretation of what is news. Not all news items appeal to all.
Dean's solo was the third....but they way I approached it in the News was to give a little history about the route which may be of interest to some...especially those who are new to climbing.....they have probably never seen Heinz Zack's original photos.
You are right, and this is what I am trying to do. At the moment...I have lots of UKC work (and other things) so am limited by time. As UKC grows it would be beneficial to have a full time dedicated News Editor so we can be more pro-active rather than just relying on harvesting news from other sources, word of mouth and people emailing us.
But do look down the left hand column of the news for August and July and we are trying our best to recognise the achievements of UK climbers.
If you have any news that you think would be of interest to the broad church of UKC readers please email us.
All the best,
mid-grade E4 soloed...
I hope we're going to get the news every time someone does The Knock?
That is exactly my point, a 5.14 climber should not hesitate or get gripped on a 5.11.
Also a 5.14 / 8C climber should be able to hang on upside down 5c/6A holds indefinately or even reverse them, I've seen it done. 15 years ago at Kilnsey.
As far as an accidental slip goes your ability or grade of the route you are on has no bearing on this, Big Jim proved this at Tremadog.
Don't understand the sour grapes bit either.
Note that this route has still only had 3 takers for a solo ascent. Newsworthy? Perhaps, perhaps not. Impressive though IMO.
About 1% as impressive as Crofts solo of Astroman.
Just looked at your profile and there is sod all there so why should I reply to an anonymous?
> About 1% as impressive as Crofts solo of Astroman.
So, still quite impressive then?
Yes impressive, and apparently Dean Potter has also soloed Astroman.
My point is why does this not make the news.
And why does someone of his calibre feel the need to climb Delicate Arch.
Maybe being really good and famous sends you scatty.
A bit like putting your wedding in Hello Magazine.
Apart from the fact that I don't think you have to be "good" to get your wedding in Hello. Merely at the Z end of "famous".
Aye both Croft and Potter have soloed Astroman and many other impressive climbs. Both are climbers and alpinists (and boulderers) of the highest calibre. Both make a living out of climbing, Croft by guiding and as a North Face athelete, Potter similarly primarily as an athelete for Patagonia.
Croft is also a rabid sport climber....putting up many routes upto 8a+ in the Owens River Gorge....usually after a very early morning session in the Palisades of the Sierra Nevada.
Both are great blokes and love climbing to their core.
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