/ NEWS: Third solo of Seperate Reality 5.11d (Fr 7a), Yosemite

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Michael Ryan - on 19 Aug 2006
Dean Potter solos Yosemite roof climbs.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

The sharp end - on 19 Aug 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Absolutely amazing stuff!

;)

A Longleat Boulderer - on 20 Aug 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Top effort
Ste Brom on 20 Aug 2006 - spc2-birk3-0-0-cust122.bagu.broadband.ntl.com
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Why, was there a ban on it? ;)
LakesWinter on 20 Aug 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

amazing
willhunt - on 20 Aug 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
After seeing his solo of The Nose Im pretty sure that like Dan Osman his sands of time are going to cut abruptly short. Enjoy it while it lasts Dean!
Craig Smith on 22 Aug 2006 - cf-cf208-002.sbs.man.ac.uk
Nice lob potential from the lip....about 500+ ft.

me. on 23 Aug 2006 - dialup-4.227.242.238.Dial1.Denver1.Level3.net
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
> Dean Potter solos Yosemite roof climbs.
>
> http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

One also must take into consideration the many roped ascents that are made on some of these routes before a solo ascent takes place . I heard for example that Dean had a thousand foot of rope hanging down the top part of the Nose on El Cap doing laps on it before his solo ascent. Pre knowledge of routes lowers the difficulty by at least two grades.Perhaps still impressive , but one rarely hears of all the preperation that these sponsored climbers often go through to achieve this required publicity. One see's photos of first free ascents of routes on El Cap with pre placed cams above the leader ... anyway it still seems to impress most climbers ,and those that write about it, and I guess that's what its all about.
A Longleat Boulderer - on 25 Aug 2006
In reply to me.:

Working the route lowers the grade by how much?!! Depending on which grading system you are referring to, the grade is for the easiest way up, it doesnt make any difference if you do it onsight or after working it...
Alex1 - on 25 Aug 2006
In reply to me.:

>anyway it still seems to impress most climbers ,and those >that write about it, and I guess that's what its all about.

What utter rubbish, of course its bloody impressive and the guy would be dead/totally mad if they didn't do the preperation.
Not wanting to detract from this ascent, but thought it worth pointing out to those who haven't been to this route, that in fact it is only about 10m(?) off the deck, it just looks like it's really above the ground because it's the roof of a cave high up a big crag, a bit of a photographic trick really.

When I did the route, I recall thinking that a solo wouldn't be anything like as scary as it looked in the photos, and if you bailed off in control, you'd probably get away with a broken ankle or two. If you came off the lip (not the crux, as I recall) there is a chance you might roll out of the cave, but a spotter tied into your obligatory ab - rope would be able to save you - were spotters used, I wonder? Also worth pointing out that placing the gear is the most strenuous part of the climb, I failed it placing the gear, but found it quite straight-forward with the gear in place.

Compared to soloing on El Cap (involuntary shudder), soloing Separate Realisty is a boulder traverse...
duncan - on 25 Aug 2006
In reply to Adrian Berry:

> If you came off the lip (not the crux, as I recall) there is a chance you might roll out of the cave, but a spotter ... would be able to save you...

"You've got to ask yourself one question: 'Do I feel lucky?'"

...only 5.11d...flashed as long ago as 1981...can't be that hard...

"Well, do ya punk?"




duncan - on 25 Aug 2006
In reply to me.:

Any idea about the rumors that it was Potter that left the fixed ropes all the way up the South Face of Mt. Watkins for eighteen months?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=228996#msg228996
E Thorne - on 25 Aug 2006
In reply to duncan:

Wasn't Dean's solo of Separate Reality reported Rock and Ice, about a month ago?
me. on 26 Aug 2006 - dialup-4.227.241.108.Dial1.Denver1.Level3.net
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I think you will see what I mean if you click onto the site provided above by Duncan. Getting noticed and written about for one's sponsors often involves 80% frigging 20% climbing.If the inside facts where know about many of these amazing free ascents in Yosemite, even way back to the nineteen seventies , I don't think they would be considered that amazing. More so when unlimited free ropes,cam's etc (not to mention time) are provided by their sponsors.
me. on 26 Aug 2006 - dialup-4.225.192.157.Dial1.Denver1.Level3.net
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:
> (In reply to me.)
>
> Working the route lowers the grade by how much?!! Depending on which grading system you are referring to, the grade is for the easiest way up, it doesnt make any difference if you do it onsight or after working it...

I guess if you are just a bouderer it maybe difficult to understand. It means if you have worked, or done a climb numerious times, lets say a real climb that is "already" been graded 5.10, in my experience it begins to feel like a 5.8 ...got it ?
me. on 26 Aug 2006 - dialup-4.225.192.157.Dial1.Denver1.Level3.net
In reply to necromancer85:
> (In reply to me.)
>
> >anyway it still seems to impress most climbers ,and those >that write about it, and I guess that's what its all about.
>
> What utter rubbish, of course its bloody impressive and the guy would be dead/totally mad if they didn't do the preperation.

The above messages from Duncan and others seem to mitigate your "utter rubbish" comment
Enty - on 26 Aug 2006
In reply to me.:
You do have a point mate.
An E7/8 climber should solo Seperate Reality, maybe like an E1/E2 climber soloing a V Diff which happens every day.

The Ent
Andy Stephenson - on 30 Aug 2006
In reply to Enty:
What nonsense! There's a huge difference between soloing a V Diff and 5.11 - E1 climbers would be able to hang on for hours until rescue arrives if in trouble on a V Diff. On a 5.11 roof crack you may have seconds before an enforced bale out if you hesitate or get gripped. And if you make a bad mistake, you may be flying head first :-o

All this smacks of sour grapes - I wonder why?
biscuit - on 30 Aug 2006
In reply to me.:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
One see's photos of first free ascents of routes on El Cap with pre placed cams above the leader


I've got the Huber book on Yosemite and there is a small caption inside that explains that many photos on 1st ascents are rubbish as that is not what they are concentrating on/logistics etc. Many are set up later, including some of Dean Potter soloing, to " show off " much better. Fair enough i reckon.

StuM - on 30 Aug 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Basically I dont think this should be news.

The guy is a 5.13+ climber and he has soloed a 5.11d that was first soloed 20 years ago! Gullichs ascent was news worthy and Heinz Zacs was of interest as his photos of the original solo are so well known.

Mick, if you are going to start putting things like this in the 'news' then you should be reporting a lot more about the efforts of British climbers rather than American media/sponsor whores (meant in the nicest possible way as i've never met the guy and he is probably a decent bloke).
Michael Ryan - on 30 Aug 2006
In reply to StuM:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Basically I dont think this should be news.

Hi Stu

I respect your opinion but I have a broad interpretation of what is news. Not all news items appeal to all.

Dean's solo was the third....but they way I approached it in the News was to give a little history about the route which may be of interest to some...especially those who are new to climbing.....they have probably never seen Heinz Zack's original photos.


> Mick, if you are going to start putting things like this in the 'news' then you should be reporting a lot more about the efforts of British climbers

You are right, and this is what I am trying to do. At the moment...I have lots of UKC work (and other things) so am limited by time. As UKC grows it would be beneficial to have a full time dedicated News Editor so we can be more pro-active rather than just relying on harvesting news from other sources, word of mouth and people emailing us.

But do look down the left hand column of the news for August and July and we are trying our best to recognise the achievements of UK climbers.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

If you have any news that you think would be of interest to the broad church of UKC readers please email us.

All the best,

Mick
Ian Hill on 30 Aug 2006 - 82.153.210.183 whois?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

mid-grade E4 soloed...

I hope we're going to get the news every time someone does The Knock?
Andy Stephenson - on 30 Aug 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: The balance seems quite good to me. We have to avoid getting too parochial - a traditional British weakness - although we are bound to have an interest in matters close to home.
Enty - on 30 Aug 2006
In reply to Andy Stephenson:
That is exactly my point, a 5.14 climber should not hesitate or get gripped on a 5.11.

Also a 5.14 / 8C climber should be able to hang on upside down 5c/6A holds indefinately or even reverse them, I've seen it done. 15 years ago at Kilnsey.

As far as an accidental slip goes your ability or grade of the route you are on has no bearing on this, Big Jim proved this at Tremadog.

Don't understand the sour grapes bit either.


The Ent
Andy Stephenson - on 30 Aug 2006
In reply to Enty: "should" not hesitate or get gripped on a 5.11 - you underestimate the psychological factor a little...

Note that this route has still only had 3 takers for a solo ascent. Newsworthy? Perhaps, perhaps not. Impressive though IMO.
Enty - on 30 Aug 2006
In reply to Andy Stephenson:

About 1% as impressive as Crofts solo of Astroman.

The Ent
Slacker-Jon on 02 Sep 2006 - 87.112.70.39.bbplus.ptn-ag2.dyn.plus.net
In reply to Enty: So what have you done Ent, that's more impressive than belittling other people's achievements????
Slacker-Jon on 02 Sep 2006 - 87.112.70.39.bbplus.ptn-ag2.dyn.plus.net
In reply to Enty: Just looked at your profile Ent - seems you went climbing for the first time in 3 years recently - WOW - I'm impressed!!! You are an authority on all climbing matters...
Enty - on 02 Sep 2006
In reply to Slacker-Jon:
> (In reply to Enty) Just looked at your profile Ent - seems you went climbing for the first time in 3 years recently - WOW - I'm impressed!!! You are an authority on all climbing matters...

Just looked at your profile and there is sod all there so why should I reply to an anonymous?

The Ent
Peter Walker on 02 Sep 2006
In reply to Enty:
>
> About 1% as impressive as Crofts solo of Astroman.
>

So, still quite impressive then?

;-)

Enty - on 02 Sep 2006
In reply to Peter Walker:
Yes impressive, and apparently Dean Potter has also soloed Astroman.
My point is why does this not make the news.

And why does someone of his calibre feel the need to climb Delicate Arch.
Maybe being really good and famous sends you scatty.
A bit like putting your wedding in Hello Magazine.

The Ent
Peter Walker on 02 Sep 2006
In reply to Enty: I can't disagree with any of that.

Apart from the fact that I don't think you have to be "good" to get your wedding in Hello. Merely at the Z end of "famous".
Enty - on 02 Sep 2006
In reply to Peter Walker:
Too true!

The Ent
Michael Ryan - on 02 Sep 2006
In reply to Enty:

Aye both Croft and Potter have soloed Astroman and many other impressive climbs. Both are climbers and alpinists (and boulderers) of the highest calibre. Both make a living out of climbing, Croft by guiding and as a North Face athelete, Potter similarly primarily as an athelete for Patagonia.

Croft's profile

http://www.thenorthface.com/na/athletes/athletes-PC.html

Croft is also a rabid sport climber....putting up many routes upto 8a+ in the Owens River Gorge....usually after a very early morning session in the Palisades of the Sierra Nevada.

Potter's profile

http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/product/patagonia.go?assetid=1875

Both are great blokes and love climbing to their core.

Mick


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