UKC

Todra Gorge, Morocco - Update

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 Glyn Jones 10 Sep 2006
For those going.......

The place is brilliant.

There are 18 crags and some bouldering too.

The bolts are good in general but you may need maillons for getting back down. Ideally a 100 metre rope is needed for ease on the single pitch route descents.

Hassan Mouhajir is the guy you need to buy the guidebook from (2006/2007). He goes to the Hotel El Mansour most mornings so you can buy it - the cost is 350DH (Dirhams, about £23) or 35 Euros and is home made but good. Don't think the routes are good if the guide says 'belle' cos that just describes the quality of the bolting. It also tells you when the sun is around so you can climb in the shade.

Most single pitch routes are about 30 to 40 metres (excellent length).

Getting there

The bus should be around 90DH (7-8 hours - est)

Don't pay more than 300DH each direct to the Gorge (or more likely Tinerhir) via Grande Taxi from Marrakesh (5-8 hours - est) - especially if the taxi is full (6 - which is a very tight squeeze for a normal Merc car (not including the driver). DON'T PUT YOUR RUCSAC IN THE BOOT UNTIL THE TAXI IS FULL - it gives you the option of walking away from the deal.

If you are the first people to hire the taxi the moroccans will say that the other people are on the way - bullsh*t, they just want you to wait until they fill the taxi. You may have to wait quite a while - especially in the afternoon when everyone is sleeping.

Don't believe their estimates of time - if they say a taxi will be back in 30 minutes then it is more likely 90 minutes to 2 hours.

Beware of people wanting to watch you climb - although I didn't lose any gear - I was suspicious and your gear will get a pretty penny.

Girls - wear a wedding ring - nuff said.

Dalle Hollandais, Parking Des Blaires, C-2 & De Meuk smell of effluent because the local sellers urinate and defecate here (as they haven't anywhere else to go - yeah right!!)

Water csts 5 - 7DHs outside of the gorge (ie, the shop next to the Etoile Des Gorges) but 10 - 12DHs inside the gorge (you defo need 2 litres a day).

Hope this helps and enjoy your trip!!!

Glyn
satori 10 Sep 2006
In reply to Glyn Jones:

nice summary glyn, the only thing i would add - ensure you fully agree the price before getting in or handing over your sack.

> especially if the taxi is full (6 - which is a very tight squeeze for a normal Merc car (not including the driver).

we had 13 in our merc on the way down from imlil to the next village - and the driver stopped to squeeze in another lad half way there. :o|
OP Glyn Jones 10 Sep 2006
In reply to satori:
> (In reply to Glyn Jones)
>
> nice summary glyn, the only thing i would add - ensure you fully agree the price before getting in or handing over your sack.

Agreed - thanks satori

Also, the guy that has organised the price will want a tip - this will depend on how much you are paying - also be careful of this too.
OP Glyn Jones 10 Sep 2006
In reply to satori: oh, and there is a goat that climbs better than me too!
 practicalcat 10 Sep 2006
In reply to Glyn Jones:
just the one goat?
OP Glyn Jones 10 Sep 2006
In reply to practicalcat: Aye, the other half said the same!

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