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Probably done to death but im bored and trying to get excited about the weekend.
so:
What are the Uber classics of Yorkshire grit bouldering - v0 - v4?
think im off at the weekend to caley to try and do mr smooth(failed last time but did chicken head so was happy) and almscliff - so any at these crags would be smashing
so:
What are the Uber classics of Yorkshire grit bouldering - v0 - v4?
think im off at the weekend to caley to try and do mr smooth(failed last time but did chicken head so was happy) and almscliff - so any at these crags would be smashing
In reply to shortyx: are they your favourites for the grade or are they just the 'starred' classic problems?
will keep my eyes peeled for them and have a go. ( prob fail on matterhorn though cause im pathetic at aretes! barndoor crazy )
will keep my eyes peeled for them and have a go. ( prob fail on matterhorn though cause im pathetic at aretes! barndoor crazy )
In reply to Adders:
the arete is certainly a classic. not sure about the other but it's extremely popular with good moves.
the arete is a jug fest, but don't fall off near the top, it's rather high!
the arete is certainly a classic. not sure about the other but it's extremely popular with good moves.
the arete is a jug fest, but don't fall off near the top, it's rather high!
In reply to Adders:
Matterhorn Arete is ace, not really a pure arete climb due to the finger holds on the right of the edge.
Matterhorn Arete is ace, not really a pure arete climb due to the finger holds on the right of the edge.
In reply to Adders:
You won't fall off Matterhorn Arete. It's english 5a (low down) then a jug-fest romp to the top. Doddle.
You won't fall off Matterhorn Arete. It's english 5a (low down) then a jug-fest romp to the top. Doddle.
In reply to Adders:
Probably my two favorite problems at Almscliffe are :-
The right arete of Morrels wall (V2/V3) - longish commiting reach for sharp arete high up. But not as bad as it first appears.
Right arete on South cave group (think thats what it is called) bit of a slap for good hold at the top. Again about V3 I think.
Now you are making me really miss Almscliffe !! I used to climb there regularly - love the place to bits.
Probably my two favorite problems at Almscliffe are :-
The right arete of Morrels wall (V2/V3) - longish commiting reach for sharp arete high up. But not as bad as it first appears.
Right arete on South cave group (think thats what it is called) bit of a slap for good hold at the top. Again about V3 I think.
Now you are making me really miss Almscliffe !! I used to climb there regularly - love the place to bits.
In reply to SiWood: how come their all arete recommendations! arrghh
your right though dru - i do need to pull my finger out and learn how not to barn door on them! im missing out on loads of lovely problems because of my fear for them.
matterhorn arete sounds cool. will def look at it.
any nice slabs? short walls? caley/alsmcliffe?
your right though dru - i do need to pull my finger out and learn how not to barn door on them! im missing out on loads of lovely problems because of my fear for them.
matterhorn arete sounds cool. will def look at it.
any nice slabs? short walls? caley/alsmcliffe?
In reply to Adders:
Loads of slab/wall problems at Caley; Otley Wall and Low Pebble Wall etc.
There's a slab on the block below Parson's Chimney at Almscliff, about 5b, feels boldish but nice.
>
> any nice slabs? short walls? caley/alsmcliffe?
> any nice slabs? short walls? caley/alsmcliffe?
Loads of slab/wall problems at Caley; Otley Wall and Low Pebble Wall etc.
There's a slab on the block below Parson's Chimney at Almscliff, about 5b, feels boldish but nice.
In reply to Adders:
"Ye gotta work ye weaknesses"
(as quoted to me on the finger crack pitch 8 of Children of the Moon on the Tour Rouge as my partner paid out the slack!!)
"Ye gotta work ye weaknesses"
(as quoted to me on the finger crack pitch 8 of Children of the Moon on the Tour Rouge as my partner paid out the slack!!)
In reply to Adders:
At Almscliff
Pork Chop Slab - V1
The Crucifix - V1
Roof Behind Virgin - V2
Wall of Horrors Start - V3
Crucifix Arete - V3/4 (not really arete climbing)
Flying Arete - V4 (laybacking with a scary rockover at the top, will be very hard if you're short)
At Caley
Morris Crack and Chips to Left - V0/1 (high but really good)
Roof of the World RH- V2
Smear Arete - V3 (Proper Arete climbing this time)
Otley Wall - V3 (Traverse into an up classic)
Great Flake Start - V3/4 (burly underclinging)
Roof of the world LH - V3
That should get you started...
At Almscliff
Pork Chop Slab - V1
The Crucifix - V1
Roof Behind Virgin - V2
Wall of Horrors Start - V3
Crucifix Arete - V3/4 (not really arete climbing)
Flying Arete - V4 (laybacking with a scary rockover at the top, will be very hard if you're short)
At Caley
Morris Crack and Chips to Left - V0/1 (high but really good)
Roof of the World RH- V2
Smear Arete - V3 (Proper Arete climbing this time)
Otley Wall - V3 (Traverse into an up classic)
Great Flake Start - V3/4 (burly underclinging)
Roof of the world LH - V3
That should get you started...
In reply to TimS:
Wall of Horrors Start is never V3 especially if Crucifix Arete is V3/4, that's a path and WoH is nails! Both are great though.
Gypsy, Almscliff is good as is the short HVS (V?) scoop to the left of the descent from that block.
jk
Wall of Horrors Start is never V3 especially if Crucifix Arete is V3/4, that's a path and WoH is nails! Both are great though.
Gypsy, Almscliff is good as is the short HVS (V?) scoop to the left of the descent from that block.
jk
In reply to jkarran: Crucifix arete requires a trick, which once learnt makes it seem easy. How can the start to an E3 6a be more than V3/4?
In reply to TimS: thanks Tim. loads to look at there indeed! just hope im good enough to do a few. sounds like your sand bagging me im only a weak punter
In reply to Adders: Hmmm the definite sandbags are flying arete (because it's a long reach), crucifix arete (because it's tricky until you know how) and potentially Morris Crack (becuase it's high and the crux move is near the top) everything else is 100% sandbag free, i promise!
In reply to Adders:
Best lower end problem at Caley is Chicken Scoop (Font6a) - excelent climbing and a proper "problem", go work it out.
Best Lower end problem at Almscliff is the ever populr Morrels Wall(Font6a) - Good climbing on obvious holds.
Best lower end problem at Caley is Chicken Scoop (Font6a) - excelent climbing and a proper "problem", go work it out.
Best Lower end problem at Almscliff is the ever populr Morrels Wall(Font6a) - Good climbing on obvious holds.
In reply to jkarran:
I thought The Gypsy was the right arete of the Virgin boulder. Orignally reguarded as HVS but not by many people today!
> Gypsy, Almscliff is good as is the short HVS (V?) scoop to the left of the descent from that block.
>
> jk
>
> jk
I thought The Gypsy was the right arete of the Virgin boulder. Orignally reguarded as HVS but not by many people today!
In reply to Adders:
Gypsy's E3 or highball V3/4
Matterhorn arete might be V0 but always feels high and scary!
Just below the Matterhorn boulder close to the wall is the aptly named Wall Boulder. There's a really ameanable V4 that you should definately have a go at that involves slapping for a sloper, Ali did this last time we were there and it's quite a cool little problem.
Morrels wall is good
Pork Chop Slab is awesome
The V1 and V2's to the left of Pock Chop are great
There's a really cool slab on the back of the Flying Arete boulder that's always good fun, eliminate as many holds as you want!
Crucifix and Crucifix arete are brilliant, squirm down the scary crack to the left to get down. Not as bad as it looks!
Gypsy's E3 or highball V3/4
Matterhorn arete might be V0 but always feels high and scary!
Just below the Matterhorn boulder close to the wall is the aptly named Wall Boulder. There's a really ameanable V4 that you should definately have a go at that involves slapping for a sloper, Ali did this last time we were there and it's quite a cool little problem.
Morrels wall is good
Pork Chop Slab is awesome
The V1 and V2's to the left of Pock Chop are great
There's a really cool slab on the back of the Flying Arete boulder that's always good fun, eliminate as many holds as you want!
Crucifix and Crucifix arete are brilliant, squirm down the scary crack to the left to get down. Not as bad as it looks!
In reply to Adders:
I could show you some good problems but can't remember the names. Grrr.
Did you get the campsite details I mailed you, by the way?
I could show you some good problems but can't remember the names. Grrr.
Did you get the campsite details I mailed you, by the way?
In reply to John Cooke: cheers. you going to come and join us without ali or you going with her?
will print off teh list and have a go go at all the ones that don't have evil landings or are mega highball ( cause im a scardy cat )
desperate for mr smooth.... it will be mine this time! grrrr
tn- got it thanks, i replied yesterday.
will print off teh list and have a go go at all the ones that don't have evil landings or are mega highball ( cause im a scardy cat )
desperate for mr smooth.... it will be mine this time! grrrr
tn- got it thanks, i replied yesterday.
In reply to Adders: For Caley Roadside I'd agree with Chickens scoop (V3ish) also low pebble wall is the classic (V2) there although the crux is at the bottom, it still feels great.
And while you're there you've got to have a go at Bob's Bastard.
Almscliffe has got to be Morrell's wall, I personally always thought Matterhorn was overated felt very straight forward and not much to work out.
Can't wait for this weekend back to some Yorkshire bouldering after being away from God's own for about a year, straight up to Lord's seat for the roof dyno.
And while you're there you've got to have a go at Bob's Bastard.
Almscliffe has got to be Morrell's wall, I personally always thought Matterhorn was overated felt very straight forward and not much to work out.
Can't wait for this weekend back to some Yorkshire bouldering after being away from God's own for about a year, straight up to Lord's seat for the roof dyno.
In reply to prinkipas: i can't reach the first hold even with a couple of mats for bobs bastard! tried it on my last visit.
morrels wall sounds ace. def having a go at that.
chicken scoop - why does that sound liek a wind up name? or is it next to chicken heads?
morrels wall sounds ace. def having a go at that.
chicken scoop - why does that sound liek a wind up name? or is it next to chicken heads?
In reply to Adders: no it's on boulder 16? off the top of my head. It's kind of delicate and feels awkward at first needing a bit of working out or it did for me. http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/photo.html?id=caley__chicken_scoop
Would also say that MJVC groove or what ever it's called at the top of the roadside area is worth a play as long as it's not too dirty.
Would also say that MJVC groove or what ever it's called at the top of the roadside area is worth a play as long as it's not too dirty.
In reply to Adders:
rich
> i can't reach the first hold even with a couple of mats for bobs bastard! tried it on my last visit.
Get someone to boost you for it, really feels desperate and scary when you first do it - that really sells it doesn't it.
rich
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: would have commented on it, but it's so much better than any of the photo's of me on there, or my pitiful attempt at topping out on the splashdown video that I thought better of it.
Will try and take videocam up to Lord's seat and put some more bumbling forward.
Rich
Will try and take videocam up to Lord's seat and put some more bumbling forward.
Rich
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: looks like my kinda problem though. thanks for recommending. i'll get a picture of me on it and compare shots to yours ;p
In reply to Chris Shorter:
Should have put those in two different sentances. Gypsy was HVS (!) is now E3 or as someone has already said V3/4 to the break.
The HVS I was on about is the opposite corner to Gypsy and is realy only a V0/1 boulder problem with a bad landing.
jk
> I thought The Gypsy was the right arete of the Virgin boulder. Orignally reguarded as HVS but not by many people today!
Should have put those in two different sentances. Gypsy was HVS (!) is now E3 or as someone has already said V3/4 to the break.
The HVS I was on about is the opposite corner to Gypsy and is realy only a V0/1 boulder problem with a bad landing.
jk
In reply to jkarran: yay! weathers looking great. gonna camp at that one near pately bridge ( tn and fh recommended ) - almscliff sat and caley sunday. can't wait. have printed oiff teh list of probs to try
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: really wanted to go there. heard nothing but great reports.
have to be next time though. i'm excited about almscliff and caley now
have to be next time though. i'm excited about almscliff and caley now
In reply to Adders:
slipstones is brill definitely go if you get the chance.
cant remember if anyone mentioned flying arete at alsmcliff, but i flashed it this morning, great problem.
frightening top out though, dodgy rockover real high up!
slipstones is brill definitely go if you get the chance.
cant remember if anyone mentioned flying arete at alsmcliff, but i flashed it this morning, great problem.
frightening top out though, dodgy rockover real high up!
In reply to Adders:
Are you into folk music, was going to warn you Otley folk festival is on so the camp site may be busy;
http://otleyfolkfestival.com.truecp.co.uk/index.htm
Are you into folk music, was going to warn you Otley folk festival is on so the camp site may be busy;
http://otleyfolkfestival.com.truecp.co.uk/index.htm
In reply to sutty: thanks sutty - will ring up tonight to book then to make sure.
shortx - cheers. i didn't like the sounds of that one!
bf might be interested in the aretes though.
can't wait to try morrels wall, porkchop slab and chicken scoop in particular ( obv mr smooth too my nemesis )
shortx - cheers. i didn't like the sounds of that one!
bf might be interested in the aretes though.
can't wait to try morrels wall, porkchop slab and chicken scoop in particular ( obv mr smooth too my nemesis )
In reply to Adders:
Pork chop slab is shite. Polished foot holds with a long reach to a small undercut flake you put your thumb under.
The wall to the left is much much better.
Pork chop slab is shite. Polished foot holds with a long reach to a small undercut flake you put your thumb under.
The wall to the left is much much better.
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.:
Correct, Adders was considering using Stubbins farm near Otley at one time, Pateley should be well clear.
Correct, Adders was considering using Stubbins farm near Otley at one time, Pateley should be well clear.
In reply to sutty: thanks anyway. i appreciate the thought. will def be staying at pately - looks a lovely site even if further out.
FH: really? ah no, it sounded ( and looked ) my kinda problem..... will have a look anyway. will just remind me of font if its polished ;0)
FH: really? ah no, it sounded ( and looked ) my kinda problem..... will have a look anyway. will just remind me of font if its polished ;0)
In reply to Adders:
Its a shame I'm in the Peak - I could've had loads of fun sandbagging you something rotten on loads of eliminates @ almscliffe!
Catch you another time then,
James.
Its a shame I'm in the Peak - I could've had loads of fun sandbagging you something rotten on loads of eliminates @ almscliffe!
Catch you another time then,
James.
In reply to TimS:
(In reply to jkarran)
Cos the grading's a joke?? Never done the route, but, don't worry, will do, next time I'm around. The start is solid 6b, i.e. V5 - same as Pebble Wall, though obviously a completely different style of climbing. And yes, have done the start, upwards, sideways, scratching arse, sans mats, etc, etc
Mick
(In reply to jkarran)
> How can the start to an E3 6a be more than V3/4?
Cos the grading's a joke?? Never done the route, but, don't worry, will do, next time I'm around. The start is solid 6b, i.e. V5 - same as Pebble Wall, though obviously a completely different style of climbing. And yes, have done the start, upwards, sideways, scratching arse, sans mats, etc, etc
Mick
In reply to shortyx: Morning!
Had a fantastic time thanks!
Went to alsmcliffe on the saturday and did loads of fantastic problems.
However I didnt get a chance to try morrels wall and porkchop slab but they looked really nice - were always busy! matterhorn arete is massive! not a chance in hell im brave enough to do that! lol
Best problem i did there was a lovely 5c on boulder one round the back of the fence and a 5c slab near the keel. really nice moves. can't wait to go back again now!
Such a lovely venue and its so nice to be climbing somewhere new - i feel like the peak hasnt got alot to offer me at the moment ( i live near by and have climbed all i can/want to at my grade ) nice to have a break and i love yorkshire grit. harder but its all good
camped at summerbridge??? was really nice as managed to be in a field on our own away from the caravan'ers.
early start to caley on sunday. started off fantastic doing a lovely 5c on playground that i couldnt do last visit and chicken heads again;and then...... the best moment ever - my nemisis Mr Smooth - i did it on the 2nd go! so sooooo happy still smirking about it now. (richard B- Yay! i did it! yay! )
then the rest of the time at caley was wandering round trying to find something nice that wasnt green or massively high! was just about to start on otley wall, but my fingers couldnt handle the grit anymore! so theres one to go back to for sure
couldnt find that chicken scoop fh - its not in the guide - whats it listed under as?
Thanks everyone - you helped me have one of my best weekends this year
ps. have i mentioned i did mr smooth? *Grin*
Had a fantastic time thanks!
Went to alsmcliffe on the saturday and did loads of fantastic problems.
However I didnt get a chance to try morrels wall and porkchop slab but they looked really nice - were always busy! matterhorn arete is massive! not a chance in hell im brave enough to do that! lol
Best problem i did there was a lovely 5c on boulder one round the back of the fence and a 5c slab near the keel. really nice moves. can't wait to go back again now!
Such a lovely venue and its so nice to be climbing somewhere new - i feel like the peak hasnt got alot to offer me at the moment ( i live near by and have climbed all i can/want to at my grade ) nice to have a break and i love yorkshire grit. harder but its all good
camped at summerbridge??? was really nice as managed to be in a field on our own away from the caravan'ers.
early start to caley on sunday. started off fantastic doing a lovely 5c on playground that i couldnt do last visit and chicken heads again;and then...... the best moment ever - my nemisis Mr Smooth - i did it on the 2nd go! so sooooo happy still smirking about it now. (richard B- Yay! i did it! yay! )
then the rest of the time at caley was wandering round trying to find something nice that wasnt green or massively high! was just about to start on otley wall, but my fingers couldnt handle the grit anymore! so theres one to go back to for sure
couldnt find that chicken scoop fh - its not in the guide - whats it listed under as?
Thanks everyone - you helped me have one of my best weekends this year
ps. have i mentioned i did mr smooth? *Grin*
In reply to Adders:
Not bad for a granny
Nice one mate x
> the best moment ever - my nemisis Mr Smooth - i did it on the 2nd go! so sooooo happy still smirking about it now. (richard B- Yay! i did it! yay! )
>
>
>
>
Not bad for a granny
Nice one mate x
In reply to JoH: im climbing better and getting more bendy as i get older
In reply to Adders:
Yeah, but more importantly, did you manage to do Mr Smooth???
(Nice one, by the way!)
Matterhorn arete is crazy tall, isn't it? We watched someone do it last time we were there and my heart was in my mouth watching her. I am SUCH a wuss...
Yeah, but more importantly, did you manage to do Mr Smooth???
(Nice one, by the way!)
Matterhorn arete is crazy tall, isn't it? We watched someone do it last time we were there and my heart was in my mouth watching her. I am SUCH a wuss...
In reply to Adders:
Roadside Boulder 16, between problem 6&7. The obvious scoop undercut at it's base.
Roadside Boulder 16, between problem 6&7. The obvious scoop undercut at it's base.
In reply to Adders:
i went to do chicken scoop the other day, and all the water from the choss at the top was running down the face so it wasn't doable.
i went to do chicken scoop the other day, and all the water from the choss at the top was running down the face so it wasn't doable.
In reply to shortyx: yeah i found quite alot of caley was too green to climb- esp at the crag side. loads of cool mushrooms about though on the plus side.
nidderdale - thanks i'll make a note in my guide for next time.
nidderdale - thanks i'll make a note in my guide for next time.
In reply to Adders:
You should have come to the shop for direction to it!
Next time your here you should go to Slipstones, Sypeland & Earl.
You should have come to the shop for direction to it!
Next time your here you should go to Slipstones, Sypeland & Earl.
In reply to A Nidderdale boulderer.: didn't get as far as pately bridge.
will do next time as planning slipstones - so will pop by and say hi for sure.
everytime i look at yorkshiregrit.com it inspires me more to get out of the peak and up to yorkshire! love the photo per problem search facility on the site.
will do next time as planning slipstones - so will pop by and say hi for sure.
everytime i look at yorkshiregrit.com it inspires me more to get out of the peak and up to yorkshire! love the photo per problem search facility on the site.
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