In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Thats right, I've watched a video of Caldwell on the Monkeyface doing some route on the arete its just incredible how hard he can crank on 4 digits.
He says his climbing has suffered on some types of climb like crack climbing though.
From interviews I've read with Graham it seems he just climbs all the time, obviously varying intensity but clearly even his active rest days involve sending sick hard stuff.
These guys have digits of steel. The common theme seems to be that they are all super light skeletons.
Clearly the is an equation here.
Pies + heavy cranking + regular sessions = finger injuries !
Think I'll cut down on the heavy cranking and regular sessions. Soon my pie eating will be at V11 grade for sure!