/ NEWS: MacLeod completes Scotland's Hardest Sport Climb
See a full report (with photos) in the News at UKClimbing.com
well done Dave... again!
He's a bit unstoppable at the moment!
>"Wonder what he will produce this winter?"
Give that outfit he's wearing on Bodyswerve I think he'll be too busy helping Santa this winter to get much done.
I liked one of Dave's quotes from last week
"I miss feeling fit" FFS
What outfit? You mean the Mountain Equipment t-shirt?
lots of snow i hope.
>"You mean the Mountain Equipment t-shirt?"
And matching pointy hat with colour co-ordinated harness and trousers!
He does look a bit like a pixie.
But good on him.
He must be one if not the best all round climber in the world now.
After an 8C after 45 minute walk in and in the pishing rain as well !
> Give that outfit he's wearing on Bodyswerve I think he'll be too busy helping Santa this winter to get much done.
Are you criticizing his fashion sense? http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=49740
I'm not being funny - rather I'm genuienely interested - but were it not for the fact that Scotland hasn't got a plethora of hard sports routes, would this be news? I mean there's been recent discussion about whether ascent of Action Directe (9a) is newsworthy any more. And in the UKC News section this appears alongside the list of the dozen women who have now climbed F8c.
There's no doubt about what a fine climber dumbie Dave truly is, and this underlines his all round talent. But for me the news is less about the climb's difficulty, than highlighting the sparsity of high standard bolt clipping in Scotland. Or, is it just that the grades are well tough north of the border - given the low success rate on the Anvil's F8a? ...browing 8a.nu you'd get the impression lots of folk are on-sighting 8a for breakfast!
Scotland is way behind in Sports climbing. So reporting the route as Scotlands hardest is reasonable, it is not misleading anyone.
Yes, some reporting is not newsworthy, if it is World hardness you want, nothing should be reported about winter climbing in Wales or England, nevermind Sports climbing in the UK at all.
Hi Tony....an ascent of Action Direct is news, this latest ascent by Dave is news, all those women climbing 8c is news...it really is very simple. They were all news to me when I heard of these events. But really the question you ask is should they be included in the news section of a website or magazine, are the important enough? I think they are....and also today's small piece on Mallorca bouldering as well.
It isn't a comparative thing, like, well the cut off point for news is such and such a grade. There's more things factor in to it than that, the primary one is do people want to hear about it? Will it be interesting to a certain sector of the climbing community?
And as you say...whilst 8c isn't cutting edge (it is very hard of course) there are more reasons for including this ascent as a news item.....several reasons as you yourself describe.
You browse 8a.nu? Not before breakfast I hope.
I also think that the clue is in the webpage you are on. You are on www.UKclimbing.com, emphasis on "UK". If you were on www.FRclimbing.com then no, I can't see the Frenchies reporting it as news.
It's still a tremendous effort by one of the worlds leading allround climbers, even though it's "only an 8c, not a 9a"
(I use the "only" with a huge piece of tongue lodged firmly in my cheek)
Hi Mick - personally, I have a very low threshold for what is news, and love to hear climbing-orientated 'celeb goss'. So please keep it up. I guess rather that saying 'is it news', I should have said 'is it of noteworthy difficulty in the UK'. To which the answer is probably not, but I'm fascinated as to why there aren't more very hard sports routes in Scotland. Venues? Weather? Grading? Climbers? Maybe all four?
PS 8a.nu - couldn't get past the homepage. Too headspinning.
> Hi Mick - personally, I have a very low threshold for what is news, and love to hear climbing-orientated 'celeb goss'.
Hold on 10 mins.....I'll get some.
I think weather and venues/geology. Could be wrong.
as for the goelogy thing, thst is utter nonsense, there is rock everywhere in scotland and many different types. down south there are too many people and not enough rock hence why so many choss heaps are developed
But is it suitable for high end sport climbing?
> I think weather and venues/geology. Could be wrong.
You are right, in the we winter climb. The venues are so varied that we go to the mountains as well as low down crags. It maybe also we are not all hung up on one type of mountaineering. Dave's Trad climbing and winter climbing is OK, so what that his Sports climbing is not that great compared to Tony. We can't all be tigers.
I'm fascinated as to why there aren't more very hard sports routes in Scotland. Venues? Weather? Grading? Climbers? Maybe all four?
Relatively small population of Scotland would be a significant factor, I'd imagine.
> But is it suitable for high end sport climbing?
There is a thing called progression, give it time. We lag behind, just like in Trad climbing.
That is OK, I do know about your limited knowledge of both climbing and the geography of Scotland. We will never get Sports route like those in Spain etc, but they won't get winter climbing like we get in Scotland. We can't have everything It just shows what a good effort Dave put in for this route.
A great effort.
I like this bit of your post " The article says the east shore of Loch Goil. I really want to know - a grid reference would be nice(!), as I used to live in Lochgoilhead and am very familiar with the shoreline because I used to sea-kayak up and down there quite alot. However, I've not seen that crag, it's must be hidden by the trees somewhere".
My younger friends have climbed there and recommend it, so just in case you can't find the grid ref from es's link, here it is NS 206 949.
Try this http://www.scottishclimbs.com/viewcrag.php?area=0&crag=130&aid=3&page=1&cid=&rti...
I feel Dave is coming into the realm of best climbing all rounder!!!
however maybe some expeditions should be on his agenda next!!
he has achieved a great deal and shines in all disciplines!!!
credit to him. a great inspiration!
Aye if some climbing firm decide to pay him enough to live on and travel.
> I feel Dave is coming into the realm of best climbing all rounder!!!
The uber Huber will be a tough act to follow ...
> an ascent of Action Direct is news, this latest ascent by Dave is news, all those women climbing 8c is news...it really is very simple. They were all news to me when I heard of these events.
One mans news is anothers chip wrapping :D
Note that I am in no way attempting to belittle anyone's achievements, they are outsanding and deserve acknowledmgent , I'm simply (attempting) to point out the subjectivity of news.
> I'm simply (attempting) to point out the subjectivity of news.
Exactly and that is the whole point.
(Corrected for typos)
I did a new route in Tonga a few years back. Taki Mali, HVS5a trad. 15m. Limestone on the Island of Eua. Is it newsworthy being possibly the first ever recorded, named route in the country.
1988 Wall street, 1989 Maginot Line and Agincourt. I think it probably is newsworthy, what Mr MacLeod has been doing. Mr Ryan is probably the best judge of that. Mainly because some people with tabloid sensibilities want to know. He (MacLeod) has minor celebrity status in the limited world of climbing. But whether the news is interesting or or exciting, well that's an entirely different matter.
Elsewhere on the site
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more
So, just what is the Petzl RocTrip? Every year French climbing manufacturer pick a sport climbing area that has potential... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more