UKC

Lofoten in the winter...

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 beardy mike 20 Oct 2006
So can canybody tell me about how to get there in the winter - was thinking of maybe getting in the car and driving or is this a daft idea? I presume the place is stacked wall to wall with new lines and gullies... would I be right in this presumption? Tah muchly if you know anything about it... where's Dave Hunter when you need him?
In reply to mike kann: New route potential - I've heard it's, like, real awesome. Dude. Not been, however. So I'm one of those annoying sods who posts hearsay. But there's no way I'm wrong about this one!
 icehockeyhair 20 Oct 2006
In reply to mike kann:

Guy Robertson was raving about winter stuff there in a talk last year.
 Erik B 20 Oct 2006
In reply to mike kann: fly to mainland norway from UK, then fly internally to Bodo, from here get an island hopper to svolvaer on lofoten, wideroe airlines. driving thee would be very daft, just hire a car in svolvaer.

there is vast amounts of new route potential, dont be fooled by the quick approaches the descents are alpine and the routes are long. the locals have only really done the roadside icefalls, eveything else is fair game although you may repeat stuff done by scottish climbers who have been out in recent years. if you are lucky and get the conditions and the weather this is the finest winter climbing location in the world, a useful piece of beta is that they tend tyo get the same weather as here, so if a mingin atlantic front hits scotland then 2 days later it will hit lofoten. good thing is though its very close to the continental landmass so perhaps a bit more stable than scotland.
 Simon K 20 Oct 2006
In reply to mike kann:

Alpine Guides advertise a trip there, as of Aug '05 they had apparently had no demand. Presumably they would be able to answer some questions therefore.

Link - http://www.alpine-guides.com/icefalls%20lofoten%20islands.htm

HTH
SK
martin k 20 Oct 2006
In reply to mike kann: from the 4th dec to the 4th jan there is 24hr darkness, and either side of that, no a great deal of light.

cheers
OP beardy mike 20 Oct 2006
In reply to Erik B: I presume flying cost spergillions though? When you say the weather is like Scottish are we talking massive thaws like Scotland or is it better than that?
 RBK 20 Oct 2006
In reply to Erik B: Not all the new routes were done by Scottish climbers! We did have Hunter with us to ake the 'porridge' mind.
 thebigeasy 22 Oct 2006
In reply to mike kann: Was talking too two Swedish climber whilst in Chamonix this summer and they where talking very highly of loften and painted a beautiful picture of the climbing there.
Sounded very much like Scotish winter with the condition been a little more stable but the possiblity of some soggy weather at times, its this that make the climbing so good. Would love to go myself and may even try and make it in the new year or it will be off to the alp's again.
 g taylor 22 Oct 2006
In reply to mike kann: I was planning on Lofoten this winter too, looks good eh!
 g taylor 22 Oct 2006
In reply to mike kann: I was planning on Lofoten this winter too, looks good eh!
 Mr. Lee 24 Oct 2006
In reply to mike kann: I'm living in Oslo til mid-March and would be interested in heading up to Lofoten as well to do some routes if you're looking for people to join!
In reply to mike kann:
Was there this august. Awesome place, with huge winter climbing potential, there was lots of seeping granite and plenty of vegetation. We spotted no end of great lines with winter potential and I believe there is a winter climbing guide to the area coming out shortly?

NMM
Removed User 26 Oct 2006
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:
Buy this book: http://www.worldtopo.com/topoboek.php?topo=399
 g taylor 16 Nov 2006
In reply to mike kann: When are you planning on going? have you sorted transport yet?
OP beardy mike 16 Nov 2006
In reply to g taylor: At the moment it looks like March sometime. Not got anything sorted at the minute...
 RBK 16 Nov 2006
In reply to mike kann: It's worth a look at Dave Hunters article on here about one of the routes we did when we were there, even if all the jokes seem to be at my expense! Take lots of tat with you and lots of rack as if you do a new route you need to rap down and it's ten pitches then you want to have gear for the rest of the trip. If I went again I'd take a load more blades for a start!
 g taylor 16 Nov 2006
In reply to mike kann: I thought about march but there's always the worry that everything may have melted by then. we're considering driving over in mid feb if you two want a lift?
 g taylor 16 Nov 2006
In reply to Kendal47: Cant find the article, do you have a link?

Cheers,

George
 RBK 16 Nov 2006
In reply to g taylor: Go to the home page and look at the latest articles bit on the bootom right. 'Gully of the Cods' we called it....
OP beardy mike 16 Nov 2006
In reply to g taylor: You reckon? I had considered the conditions to be the least of my worries... I'm due to be in Scotland in Feb at the minute...
 Mr. Lee 16 Nov 2006
In reply to mike kann:

I was also planning on heading to Lofoten around March but figured it would be a good time. A bit more light and surely still cold enough more good winter conditions?
OP beardy mike 16 Nov 2006
In reply to Mr. Lee: Thats what my thoughts had been. This is turning into the UKC arctic picnic... You bring the vodka, we'll bring the Salmon sandwiches...
 Wry Gob 17 Nov 2006
In reply to mike kann:

Highly recommend a trip to Lofoten in winter, great place. End Feb - early March seems to be the best time, with cold weather and 10-ish hours daylight. Very variable conditions though so try to get in touch with the locals afore you go. We found them extremely helpful (sorry no contacts).

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